Keeping up with a Coyote
03-23-2016, 07:51 AM
#41
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That makes plenty of sense. I feel like I have to press the gas pretty good before it starts moving. Once it starts moving it goes quick. Not the most fun in traffic granted the car is more of a weekend warrior. I might look into gears in the near future. I don't plan on driving this car all over the highway.
03-23-2016, 08:30 AM
#42
1 Remove the front sway bar and lighten the car. Tire and jack and easy stuff. 2 Tires: Any of the drag radials mentioned will stick at the track. Pick the smallest diameter and widest of the bunch. That will give you a little gearing as well. Over inflate the front tires a bit.
3 Exhaust: Decent catback and loose the stock cats minimum. Old cats get plugged up. Long tubes and a complete setup would be the bomb. Please get some nice tail pipes.
Just this should get you real close. The auto should get you out front at the start. Enough to make him nervous or you might even win! Get to the track at least a couple of times. You can do all this in a couple of weeks.
A stall, cam and heads. In that order would have him following you for sure.
3 Exhaust: Decent catback and loose the stock cats minimum. Old cats get plugged up. Long tubes and a complete setup would be the bomb. Please get some nice tail pipes.
Just this should get you real close. The auto should get you out front at the start. Enough to make him nervous or you might even win! Get to the track at least a couple of times. You can do all this in a couple of weeks.
A stall, cam and heads. In that order would have him following you for sure.
Last edited by handyandy496; 03-23-2016 at 08:37 AM.
03-23-2016, 08:41 AM
#44
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: St Louis, MO.
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not knocking his suggestion at all, but If it's your daily driver, I wouldn't remove the front sway bar. I've read too much and talked to buddies that have had their seats sucked up their *** because of having to make a maneuver in normal driving where they almost lost it due to the handling. If you do, just be careful. It will help your et some though, like he said.
If it's just for the track then I wouldn't be as worried about it. For that matter, you can just unbolt it when you get to the track or before you go. I do know some people that have removed theirs and daily drive them with no problems though. I just don't want anything sketchy going on when I'm expecting my car to do as it always had before.
If it's just for the track then I wouldn't be as worried about it. For that matter, you can just unbolt it when you get to the track or before you go. I do know some people that have removed theirs and daily drive them with no problems though. I just don't want anything sketchy going on when I'm expecting my car to do as it always had before.
03-23-2016, 09:19 AM
#48
On The Tree
Thread Starter
03-23-2016, 09:37 AM
#49
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: DSM
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agreed with what big hammer said on 1-7/8" headers and Phab stuff. Lots of weight to be lost in that exhaust and a bit of power to be gained.
FWIW, you're right, your brother should pick up a decent chunk with some mods. My 2013 Gt premium auto is nothing special performance wise and with Headers, orx, aluminum driveshaft, and an emailed 91 octane tune, it went 12.2@114 with 275/40/19 Continental DWS street tires all around on a 1.93 60.
Stall and tires are your biggest ticket right now for gains with what seems like a limited budget.
03-23-2016, 10:01 AM
#50
10 Second Club
And a SHORT tire like a hoosier 275/50/15 or shorter. Any larger is a waste of power.
Take off your sway bar
When he gets more serious, add a CAI, 1-7/8 headers, 3" x pipe duals, and a tune to rev it out. It should rev to 6200-6300 at that.
At the track is your best bet, from a roll you're going to have a harder time running a manual 5.0 with an auto ls1
03-23-2016, 10:09 AM
#51
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: DSM
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stall and tires #1 with ls1 auto. They're geared like junk with a tight stall so it just won't come alive quick enough without a stall.
And a SHORT tire like a hoosier 275/50/15 or shorter. Any larger is a waste of power.
Take off your sway bar
When he gets more serious, add a CAI, 1-7/8 headers, 3" x pipe duals, and a tune to rev it out. It should rev to 6200-6300 at that.
At the track is your best bet, from a roll you're going to have a harder time running a manual 5.0 with an auto ls1
And a SHORT tire like a hoosier 275/50/15 or shorter. Any larger is a waste of power.
Take off your sway bar
When he gets more serious, add a CAI, 1-7/8 headers, 3" x pipe duals, and a tune to rev it out. It should rev to 6200-6300 at that.
At the track is your best bet, from a roll you're going to have a harder time running a manual 5.0 with an auto ls1
PM me when you are closer to ready, OP. I'll try and see what I can do on a Yank SS3600 and a trans cooler.
03-23-2016, 05:47 PM
#53
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (29)
Really? I found a completely different result: https://ls1tech.com/forums/12-second...-bolt-ons.html
In fact, I have noticed that far too often people try "add up" power by bolting on part after part, rather than optimizing and tuning what they have; especially the driver mod.
I am going to miss that car (parting it out) because it hurt a lot of feelings.
In fact, I have noticed that far too often people try "add up" power by bolting on part after part, rather than optimizing and tuning what they have; especially the driver mod.
I am going to miss that car (parting it out) because it hurt a lot of feelings.
03-23-2016, 06:00 PM
#54
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: St Louis, MO.
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have probably 50+ slips with 2.73's and 30-40+ slips after I put 3.42's in and it was barely over a tenth of a second gain. To be honest, my car had a fat tune with the 2.73's and was in check with the 3.42's. So I would be willing to bet that if it had been in check with the 2.73's, that it wouldn't have made any difference in et. My car is consistent within a tenth every time I run it and every slip shows it.
I wish I had listened to all the peoples threads on here that said gears would only gain about .1 to .2 tenths if you're lucky, but most people see no gains. I would have saved myself time and money, because they're back in my car now and I have better gas mileage too lol.
03-23-2016, 06:34 PM
#56
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (29)
Yeah, after you're stalled with a decent sized stall, gears will net you almost absolutely nothing.
I have probably 50+ slips with 2.73's and 30-40+ slips after I put 3.42's in and it was barely over a tenth of a second gain. To be honest, my car had a fat tune with the 2.73's and was in check with the 3.42's. So I would be willing to bet that if it had been in check with the 2.73's, that it wouldn't have made any difference in et. My car is consistent within a tenth every time I run it and every slip shows it.
I wish I had listened to all the peoples threads on here that said gears would only gain about .1 to .2 tenths if you're lucky, but most people see no gains. I would have saved myself time and money, because they're back in my car now and I have better gas mileage too lol.
I have probably 50+ slips with 2.73's and 30-40+ slips after I put 3.42's in and it was barely over a tenth of a second gain. To be honest, my car had a fat tune with the 2.73's and was in check with the 3.42's. So I would be willing to bet that if it had been in check with the 2.73's, that it wouldn't have made any difference in et. My car is consistent within a tenth every time I run it and every slip shows it.
I wish I had listened to all the peoples threads on here that said gears would only gain about .1 to .2 tenths if you're lucky, but most people see no gains. I would have saved myself time and money, because they're back in my car now and I have better gas mileage too lol.
03-23-2016, 07:10 PM
#57
I agree on not needing 315s. I had the same Toyos on the old school 17x11 ZR1s and the rear wheel/tire setup was a ridiculous 65lbs+/-
If I ever rebuild this car I'll be rolling either a 18/15 setup for racing with 18s in the rear when I want to look normal or might even do 17s if I cheap out and go race stars but if I do that it'll be 17/15s full time.
I drove without a sway at for over a year and a half DD'n but I also drove more cautiously and was more observant of my surrounds. I did have to maneuver a couple times but the car felt fine.
If I ever rebuild this car I'll be rolling either a 18/15 setup for racing with 18s in the rear when I want to look normal or might even do 17s if I cheap out and go race stars but if I do that it'll be 17/15s full time.
I drove without a sway at for over a year and a half DD'n but I also drove more cautiously and was more observant of my surrounds. I did have to maneuver a couple times but the car felt fine.
03-25-2016, 09:13 AM
#58
11 Second Club
When I did headers, cat back, throttle body, tune and 3.73 gears on my stock Z28 LT1 with the stock converter it felt like a shot of nitrous... Real talk..
Last edited by NewOrleansLT1; 03-25-2016 at 09:20 AM.
03-25-2016, 09:29 AM
#59
11 Second Club
I also will add that if you're into roll racing you would see a bigger gain with the perfect rear gear because you gotta defeat air drag for better top end power by getting into your power band quicker.. Esp if your M6.. But in my stock Silverado with tune I use to get up too 120mph.. I added 33" tires and it barely does 110mph now.. A simple gear change would fix that issue..
03-25-2016, 10:02 AM
#60
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: St Louis, MO.
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bigger stall converter nulls the need for more gear. It extends the shift points and doesn't let it fall out of your cars powerband after shifts.
My car never falls below 5100rpms after it shifts, which helps me in my powerband the entire pull and that is with 2.73 gears. So gearing is minute when a bigger aftermarket stall is brought into the picture because it's basically like slipping the clutch to get/keep the rpms up. Where as an m6 car Needs more gear to get it there.
People with aftermarket stalls will 100% tell you that they wished they had done it when they bought the car. It is a complete different animal to drive, way better than any gear will do to it.
This is my car with 2.73 gears and a ss3600 stall. It only drops to 5100rpm after the shift and if I had a 4000 stall, it would drop even less on the shift. This is proof that a stall does away with the need for more gear in an auto.
My car never falls below 5100rpms after it shifts, which helps me in my powerband the entire pull and that is with 2.73 gears. So gearing is minute when a bigger aftermarket stall is brought into the picture because it's basically like slipping the clutch to get/keep the rpms up. Where as an m6 car Needs more gear to get it there.
People with aftermarket stalls will 100% tell you that they wished they had done it when they bought the car. It is a complete different animal to drive, way better than any gear will do to it.
This is my car with 2.73 gears and a ss3600 stall. It only drops to 5100rpm after the shift and if I had a 4000 stall, it would drop even less on the shift. This is proof that a stall does away with the need for more gear in an auto.