Keeping up with a Coyote
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
Keeping up with a Coyote So here's the story. Im sure a lot of the info and discussion im looking for can be searched for (which i still do), but some of the info is like 10 years old and im sure there is some tech that has been made since then. And this gives me a chance to make a wish list of what I want to get in the future.
Story behind the story. My brother has a 2014 5.0 mustang. Looks cool, runs quick yada yada. I probably will never really beat him with my 02 SS A4 since he has more cash to play with, but I want to stay competitive. Right now he is pretty much stock with drag radials and an M6 (converting to auto after this summer) and ran 13.0 in Nebraska.
My SS has headers and some sort of exhaust, Y to magnaflow. Had SLP exhaust, not sure why previous owner changed it as this set up is super ugly, too low and exits behind drivers side rear wheel. Ill take pics as its pretty embarassing looking. SLP lid Anything else on the car is unknown to me.
So what Im looking for is what order I should do My upgrades as they will be budget and one at a time. And any advice on what options to get. Also keeping in mind Id like to still maintain highway drivablity. 5 hour trip capable.
This is my wish list:
Exhaust, from headers back most likey (probably first as the current look is an issue)
TC/stall
Drag radials/slicks
mild cam
Tune
not really thing of NO2 or charger... but maybe years in the future.
Any good upgrades I left out of my equation or helpful info that I can provide please ask. And thanks for any help.
Story behind the story. My brother has a 2014 5.0 mustang. Looks cool, runs quick yada yada. I probably will never really beat him with my 02 SS A4 since he has more cash to play with, but I want to stay competitive. Right now he is pretty much stock with drag radials and an M6 (converting to auto after this summer) and ran 13.0 in Nebraska.
My SS has headers and some sort of exhaust, Y to magnaflow. Had SLP exhaust, not sure why previous owner changed it as this set up is super ugly, too low and exits behind drivers side rear wheel. Ill take pics as its pretty embarassing looking. SLP lid Anything else on the car is unknown to me.
So what Im looking for is what order I should do My upgrades as they will be budget and one at a time. And any advice on what options to get. Also keeping in mind Id like to still maintain highway drivablity. 5 hour trip capable.
This is my wish list:
Exhaust, from headers back most likey (probably first as the current look is an issue)
TC/stall
Drag radials/slicks
mild cam
Tune
not really thing of NO2 or charger... but maybe years in the future.
Any good upgrades I left out of my equation or helpful info that I can provide please ask. And thanks for any help.
I think you're being realistic there with your mods..exhaust for looks primarily - I get that; otherwise would have said stall first.
Add gears for sure.
I'd consider a milled set of 243s to get the most out of other mods. Best $400 you can spend on a LS1 beyond the stall.
Add gears for sure.
I'd consider a milled set of 243s to get the most out of other mods. Best $400 you can spend on a LS1 beyond the stall.
if you get any wheelhop you may consider welded SFC's & LCA's. besides the lid a cold air induction cant hurt. or try free ram air mod. no reason you cant keep up with him if you do those things you listed. (imo)
You've got a good list going there. RPM = MPH. So, for your mild cam, you'll probably want a somewhat wider LSA. Won't chop as much, but will rev and still drive nicely. Keep your valve train light. Might consider some higher ratio lifters and titanium keepers as well to support higher RPM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
as far as the cam is concerned, what would be a good one to get. i am very ignorant on the matter so no info is bad info to me. Ill probably ask a vendor to give me what I want for what Im using it for but Im sure you guys have great knowledge to give me an idea. Id like increased performance (obviously) and little mpg decrease as possible. And the less I have to buy on top would also be in my wheel house. so using the stock lifters etc is best for me if I can. Also this toy is more of a cool cruiser to me so a bump in performance not so much a huge leap. So based on that... haha.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
From: 336 NC
A stall would be the best bang for your buck. Like a Yank or Circle D in 3600-4000 stall range.
On the exhaust side of things On3Performance has a really nice stainless "loudmouth style" exhaust for cheap.
On the exhaust side of things On3Performance has a really nice stainless "loudmouth style" exhaust for cheap.
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Verdad Gallardo a 228 cam would be streetable with a stall , no stall the max i'd go is a 224. reminder upgraded springs are a must! (weakest link on a ls1) call a sponsor like texas speed. ps im a bit conservative but if too radical think about resale. also consider where the cam reaches peak hp and are you willing to rev that high?
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,189
Likes: 123
From: Portland, Oregon
If you are going to be changing your exhaust, you should really consider going to a true dual set-up, and replace that Y-pipe with an X-pipe. The lid/intake and exhaust will really help get the most out of any other mods you choose to do (like a cam and heads). Rear gears, stall, and cam all need to be done together. Not necessarily at the same time, but those components need to be thought about as a system and built/selected to compliment one another. The cam, stall, and gears will determine your rpms, and need to be selected to match how you drive and how high you want to rev your motor.
When you do decide to get a cam, give Martin Smallwood a call. He will set you straight with the perfect cam. Martin also offers quality upgraded trunions for the stock rockers.
When you decide to get new heads or port yours, look into the West Coast Cylinder Head stage two 4.8/5.3 heads. They are built to maximize flow on the small bores with 1.95/1.575 valves, and flow 285cfm on the 3.78" bore. Installing them on the ls1's 3.9" bore will only increase the flow by unshrouding the valves, and the relatively small 213cc intake runners should provide excellent port velocity and responsiveness. The smaller combustion chambers will provide a welcome bump in compression, as well. Just something to look into and consider, even though new heads are probably not an immediate concern.
An ls6 intake would also be good thing to consider for this build. It seems to be about the best choice for the F-body.
When you do decide to get a cam, give Martin Smallwood a call. He will set you straight with the perfect cam. Martin also offers quality upgraded trunions for the stock rockers.
When you decide to get new heads or port yours, look into the West Coast Cylinder Head stage two 4.8/5.3 heads. They are built to maximize flow on the small bores with 1.95/1.575 valves, and flow 285cfm on the 3.78" bore. Installing them on the ls1's 3.9" bore will only increase the flow by unshrouding the valves, and the relatively small 213cc intake runners should provide excellent port velocity and responsiveness. The smaller combustion chambers will provide a welcome bump in compression, as well. Just something to look into and consider, even though new heads are probably not an immediate concern.
An ls6 intake would also be good thing to consider for this build. It seems to be about the best choice for the F-body.
Stall and some drag radials off the bat.
Just pull the extension that leads to the turn down off the muffler and add a turn down to the muffler that will help on the looks factor because it will be somewhat hidden
Just pull the extension that leads to the turn down off the muffler and add a turn down to the muffler that will help on the looks factor because it will be somewhat hidden
Well for the time being, if you want to beat the 5.0 it won't be hard at all with that 13 second e.t. Literally just a stall and drag radials, with a tune of course will have you in the 12's.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Mobile, AL
You make a good point. That time translates to 12.67 at sea level....based on the conversion that I saw. You definitely have your work cut out for you. Those Coyotes are serious machines.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
yeah thats what i saw as well. the conversations seem a bit generous but it is what it is. And im just trying to not get left in the dust. He has a faster car and more cash to upgrade so I know where I stand. My best bet to beat him might be right now before he does his auto conversion (and anything else after this fall). Might catch him missing 3rd or something while im auto down the strip. And I do have LTs at least so who knows. might have a tune as well, has Jet perfomance sticker in the engine bay. My tiger paws might be my real down fall this summer. But its just a good brotherly rivalry. And the why I look at it (13.5 sec $8k car >13.0 sec $25k car) in some ways
Drag radials
Torque converter
3.42 rear from an m6 car or 3.42 gearset itself should be cheap and good for driving daily.
You already said you have exhaust stuff, so that is where I would personally focus. 13.0 isn't impressive for your brother and won't be hard to beat
Torque converter
3.42 rear from an m6 car or 3.42 gearset itself should be cheap and good for driving daily.
You already said you have exhaust stuff, so that is where I would personally focus. 13.0 isn't impressive for your brother and won't be hard to beat
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 7
From: Nebraska
Drag radials
Torque converter
3.42 rear from an m6 car or 3.42 gearset itself should be cheap and good for driving daily.
You already said you have exhaust stuff, so that is where I would personally focus. 13.0 isn't impressive for your brother and won't be hard to beat
Torque converter
3.42 rear from an m6 car or 3.42 gearset itself should be cheap and good for driving daily.
You already said you have exhaust stuff, so that is where I would personally focus. 13.0 isn't impressive for your brother and won't be hard to beat
But back to me. If I was just going to use them on the track, (not sure if I want to street race at all yet) should I get drag radials or just slicks? And a good price if known