Help with 60ft and suspension settings on single digit car.(video included)
#1
Help with 60ft and suspension settings on single digit car.(video included)
I am struggling here getting the car to 60ft correctly. nitrous LS motor with th400 with brake and 3.73 rear gear on 28x10.5 slicks. Leash progressive controller. Car has Madman custom valved afcos in the rear with wolfe spring perches and 150# rear springs. UMI double adjustable LCA's, LCA brackets in the lowest hole. UMI long TQ arm with adjustable front mount on crossmember ( set in middle in the stock location hole) UMI drag bar anti roll bar. front is all race craft tubular chromoly parts. QA1 R series 12 way in front. Travel limiters set with 1-3/4" travel.
Car on small jets will 60ft 1.26-1.27. this is 30% start with 1.25 sec ramp. which is not great but i'm ok with that. on 100 hp more the car wont 60ft better than 1.36-1.38. some passes the car wheelies and 1 car out the back tires break free and its smoking the tires while doing a wheelie and the front slams down. most passes look like the video below. the car bounces alot. it doesn't look right. I have the ramp on the progressive dialed all the way back to 2.0 second ramp and only 16% start on this pass. tried pulling as much power as we could out and still no luck. Is my instant center and anti squat numbers all wrong since I lowered the car this much and added more power? Is this just a shock adjustment problem? I'm clueless here. I haven't measured and figured out and IC numbers with control arm angles or anything since this was a 10 sec car years ago. car is lower now and makes way more power.
Car on small jets will 60ft 1.26-1.27. this is 30% start with 1.25 sec ramp. which is not great but i'm ok with that. on 100 hp more the car wont 60ft better than 1.36-1.38. some passes the car wheelies and 1 car out the back tires break free and its smoking the tires while doing a wheelie and the front slams down. most passes look like the video below. the car bounces alot. it doesn't look right. I have the ramp on the progressive dialed all the way back to 2.0 second ramp and only 16% start on this pass. tried pulling as much power as we could out and still no luck. Is my instant center and anti squat numbers all wrong since I lowered the car this much and added more power? Is this just a shock adjustment problem? I'm clueless here. I haven't measured and figured out and IC numbers with control arm angles or anything since this was a 10 sec car years ago. car is lower now and makes way more power.
#5
11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car on small jets will 60ft 1.26-1.27. this is 30% start with 1.25 sec ramp. which is not great but i'm ok with that. on 100 hp more the car wont 60ft better than 1.36-1.38. some passes the car wheelies and 1 car out the back tires break free and its smoking the tires while doing a wheelie and the front slams down. most passes look like the video below. the car bounces alot. it doesn't look right.
https://youtu.be/wkDjuFYFrMQ
What are you shock settings at?
-Mark
#6
This the first place to start. Those QA-1R shocks in the front will probably not be enough to slow the front down enough even at full tight. Where are they now?
#7
Front shocks 6 out of 12 clicks on rebound. Compression is set full stiff and non adjustable I belive on these R series. The rears are afco double adj. compression right in the middle. If it's 40 clicks it's on 20. The rebound on this pass was 15 from full loose on a 40 click range. Tires 14psi
Trending Topics
#8
Front shocks 6 out of 12 clicks on rebound. Compression is set full stiff and non adjustable I belive on these R series. The rears are afco double adj. compression right in the middle. If it's 40 clicks it's on 20. The rebound on this pass was 15 from full loose on a 40 click range. Tires 14psi
#11
Get rid of the long torque arm. And get a shorter one that only goes to the tunnel brace. Then get rid of the travel limiters and let the suspension work. You have very good shocks. Let them work. The shorter torque arm will keep the front end down but still transfer the load to the rear tires. Tighten the rear shocks on extension only to the point of spinning. Then back off a couple clicks. Only tighten the front enough on extension to keep the front tires barely touching. The front shocks should be 60% colapsed at ride height so you have plenty of travel on extension. We only have ours on 3 clicks but our car only weighs 3000. The springs on the back shocks should only be preloaded 1/8 inch with axle hanging. Do not crank them up to adjust ride height. Ride height in rear should be adjusted by the spring rate. We have 125's on ours. This will get you real close. Best of Luck.
#12
I had some time to scale the car and measure some things. here is what I got last night.
ride height, ground to fender lip:
RF 26-3/8"
LF 26-3/8"
RR 27-1/2"
LR 27-1/2"
scaled corner weights with me in the car with helmet, nitrous bottle, fuel in the car fully ready race weight.
RF 865
LF 894
RR 734
LR 852
total weight: 3,345
Nose percentage 52.5%
Rear percentage 47.5%
Rear control arm angle. 2.5 degrees down hill from body running toward rear axle.
long TQ arm. 60" long.
control arm length 19.5"
height to rear control arm bolt 7.3125"
height to front control arm bolt 7.8125"
wheel base 101.5"
Center of gravity height 19.4375"
Center of gravity length in front of rear axle 53.2875"
Instant center length: 60"
Instant center Height 8.9375"
Anti squat percentage 78%
I used this site for TQ arm calculations for anti squat.
http://www.shopeshop.org/tim.13.htm
These are my numbers and came out with 78%
I don't exactly understand the " horizontal dist. to rear pivot" I'm guessing this is if your rear bolt on control arm is not center with your axle tube. I entered zero since mine are inline with axle.
After playing with numbers and seeing what makes anti squat % go higher, I found that i would have to drop the rear of my control arms over 2" lower to get this to 110%. They are currently in the lowest hole on a bracket that is 1/4" higher than the lip of my rim. This does not seem realistic to add to the bracket and make it nearly scrape on the ground. They next number i played with was TQ arm length. if i shorten the 60" TQ arm to 40" its around 110% also. This seems doable with buying a new TQ arm.
I'm not sure if my math is totally correct or this link to the calculator is accurate, I'm no expert. What do you guys think my target IC and anti squat should be? whats the best way to get there? buy new TQ arm?
ride height, ground to fender lip:
RF 26-3/8"
LF 26-3/8"
RR 27-1/2"
LR 27-1/2"
scaled corner weights with me in the car with helmet, nitrous bottle, fuel in the car fully ready race weight.
RF 865
LF 894
RR 734
LR 852
total weight: 3,345
Nose percentage 52.5%
Rear percentage 47.5%
Rear control arm angle. 2.5 degrees down hill from body running toward rear axle.
long TQ arm. 60" long.
control arm length 19.5"
height to rear control arm bolt 7.3125"
height to front control arm bolt 7.8125"
wheel base 101.5"
Center of gravity height 19.4375"
Center of gravity length in front of rear axle 53.2875"
Instant center length: 60"
Instant center Height 8.9375"
Anti squat percentage 78%
I used this site for TQ arm calculations for anti squat.
http://www.shopeshop.org/tim.13.htm
These are my numbers and came out with 78%
I don't exactly understand the " horizontal dist. to rear pivot" I'm guessing this is if your rear bolt on control arm is not center with your axle tube. I entered zero since mine are inline with axle.
After playing with numbers and seeing what makes anti squat % go higher, I found that i would have to drop the rear of my control arms over 2" lower to get this to 110%. They are currently in the lowest hole on a bracket that is 1/4" higher than the lip of my rim. This does not seem realistic to add to the bracket and make it nearly scrape on the ground. They next number i played with was TQ arm length. if i shorten the 60" TQ arm to 40" its around 110% also. This seems doable with buying a new TQ arm.
I'm not sure if my math is totally correct or this link to the calculator is accurate, I'm no expert. What do you guys think my target IC and anti squat should be? whats the best way to get there? buy new TQ arm?
#13
Get rid of the long torque arm. And get a shorter one that only goes to the tunnel brace. Then get rid of the travel limiters and let the suspension work. You have very good shocks. Let them work. The shorter torque arm will keep the front end down but still transfer the load to the rear tires. .
#16
Leverage. If you were able to tie the rear tires to the ground, (which is exactly what your trying to do). Where would it take more force to lift the front tires off the ground, at the trans mount, or the tunnel mount?
#17
TECH Enthusiast
Originally Posted by TTur1996
Leverage. If you were able to tie the rear tires to the ground, (which is exactly what your trying to do). Where would it take more force to lift the front tires off the ground, at the trans mount, or the tunnel mount?
#18
11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had some time to scale the car and measure some things. here is what I got last night.
Instant center length: 60"
Instant center Height 8.9375"
Anti squat percentage 78%
I used this site for TQ arm calculations for anti squat.
http://www.shopeshop.org/tim.13.htm
These are my numbers and came out with 78%
I don't exactly understand the " horizontal dist. to rear pivot" I'm guessing this is if your rear bolt on control arm is not center with your axle tube. I entered zero since mine are inline with axle.
After playing with numbers and seeing what makes anti squat % go higher, I found that i would have to drop the rear of my control arms over 2" lower to get this to 110%. They are currently in the lowest hole on a bracket that is 1/4" higher than the lip of my rim. This does not seem realistic to add to the bracket and make it nearly scrape on the ground. They next number i played with was TQ arm length. if i shorten the 60" TQ arm to 40" its around 110% also. This seems doable with buying a new TQ arm.
I'm not sure if my math is totally correct or this link to the calculator is accurate, I'm no expert. What do you guys think my target IC and anti squat should be? whats the best way to get there? buy new TQ arm?
Instant center length: 60"
Instant center Height 8.9375"
Anti squat percentage 78%
I used this site for TQ arm calculations for anti squat.
http://www.shopeshop.org/tim.13.htm
These are my numbers and came out with 78%
I don't exactly understand the " horizontal dist. to rear pivot" I'm guessing this is if your rear bolt on control arm is not center with your axle tube. I entered zero since mine are inline with axle.
After playing with numbers and seeing what makes anti squat % go higher, I found that i would have to drop the rear of my control arms over 2" lower to get this to 110%. They are currently in the lowest hole on a bracket that is 1/4" higher than the lip of my rim. This does not seem realistic to add to the bracket and make it nearly scrape on the ground. They next number i played with was TQ arm length. if i shorten the 60" TQ arm to 40" its around 110% also. This seems doable with buying a new TQ arm.
I'm not sure if my math is totally correct or this link to the calculator is accurate, I'm no expert. What do you guys think my target IC and anti squat should be? whats the best way to get there? buy new TQ arm?
Slicks need a different AS than a radial. They need around 100-115%.Then fine tune the shocks/struts or the ARB if it goes left or right off the hit.
If you switch torque arms and shorten the IC, the AS will go up but just make sure still slow the front down. You might end up with a nice wheel stand but they suck coming down. Buying pans and headers ain't cheap.
Hope this helps.
-Mark
#19
ok, So I'm picking up a short arm today after work. it puts my IC at 46" from the rear axle. the anti squat goes up to 101% now. I am going to set the front QA1's maxed out on 12 for stiffness and I will run 15psi in the tires instead of 13-14. Id rather have it spin than go on the bumper first pass.
#20
Don't go max effort on the first pass. Sneak up on it. Try 18psi on tires. If you go full tight on the shocks its almost like having travel limiters. You want to control the rise not contain it. Try 3 to start. Ideally you don't want the tires to even come off the ground. Start low on the launch RPM. By letting the front end come up to full shock travel it will transfer the weight to the rear better. In the video you can see the back looks good but the front starts to come up and then it hits the limiters not letting it completely transfer the weight to the rear and then unloads and repeats. You probably had bad tire shake. Video tape what the suspension is doing every pass and watch it closely. It should come up smooth and easy while moving forward the whole time, and hold with the tires just barely touching the ground. Then you got it all. Best of Luck