Hello, I'm in the process of put my car in a diet. One of the things that i going to take out is the ABS block. Now i know about both of this options. What you guys think is better and why? Thanks

 

I did the SJM kit, and other then trying to flare stock lines which is a bitch, it wasnt bad. So glad I did it for the room alone. See here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...bs-delete.html

 

Those compression fittings are illegal. You can call them whatever you want. They are still compression fittings. Flare fittings are the only Dot legal way to do brake lines. If you ever get into a wreck and kill someone due to failed brakes your screwed. The police will inspect your car and you will probably get charged with man slaughter, go to jail and get sued. The problem with them is you have no clue how tight they are. You could actually be closing off the flow causing problems, or just blow them apart. I have epoxy glue that states its good to 6000psi. Would you use that just because it says it will handle more than brake pressure? I think not. Don't be lazy. Do it right. If your trying to loose weight. Go with the Strange or a Wilwood manual master cylinder. They are internally proportioned and work great. You can buy a role of brake line very cheap and make your own. Not a big deal at all.

 

That's correct, they aren't dot legal. However they are proven in pressure environments, I checked. And I'd trust them anyday over a poorly flared stock line. So get off your high horse fella.

 

Not on any high horse fella. I can't believe you are giving that advise that could potentially get someone killed. Your telling me you have never seen one of those blow apart after a hard brake check? That is exactly why they are illegal. And you even know it by your own admission. Unreal. So go ahead and trash talk me if that makes you feel better.

 

No, I've never seen one "blow apart". What I did hear is from dozens of people that use these daily at work in pressure environments who say they are ******* fantastic. I also just cut these off my car about a week ago and I was eager to inspect the grip they had on the line and to see if flow was restricted. It wasnt, and the tubing was held so tight I couldn't get the ferrule off. Again, experience trumps your conspiracy theory. Also, government regs are sometimes to save you from you, I know these things can hold when, properly sized and assembled. They reason they aren't allowed is bc some dumb **** would put it on wrong and go get hurt. I'm not the problem here fella, trust me.

 

Not in a million years.

The best thing you can do is to learn how to use a flaring tool. At least it sounds like you need to. And get a good one. Not some cheap pos. You have a Great Day man. I will hope and pray for you and anyone else that listens to this bilge. I'm out.

 

Yes, you are correct. But there are some inherent problems. One, most do ABS delete with the engine in the car (with very little room to work), and two a nice hydraulic flaring tool may be out of the price range as a one time purchase for a lot of people. Third, they may have already cut their stock lines (like i did) before they realized they cant get it to flare right and you're stuck with no car. You damn near cannot flare a stock stainless brake line on the car. They are ******* hard as ****. Also, after some research it seems this is common with stainless brake line (which i really didnt know till i failed miserably). The point is, after proper research, it is a viable option if you're in a bind, so that's why i presented it to him.

 

Nice link. And I LOLzed at much of the first post.

 

Got my flaring tool at Sears. Its a Craftsman. Best one I have ever had. Yes those hard lines are a pain, but brakes are not something to take short cuts on. The reason they banned them was because of how many people got killed using them. No conspiracy. And the bottom line is. If you can't do it right. Don't do it at all. Or have someone who can, do it for you. The best way is to just get a roll of brake line and replace them. No big deal at all and not expensive either. Motor in or not. I do it all the time. Liveing up north with all the road salt. Rusted out brake lines are a very common occurrence. I have made a lot of money replacing brake lines. The right way. How are you going to feel if you get someone killed or they kill a bunch of kids with your illegal advice. When the lawyers start investigating and the person that killed a bunch of kids shows them your threads on the subject. What do you think is going to happen to you. Seriously man. I am generally concerned because the whole world is reading these threads. Please quit trying to justify your wrong doing with nonsense. I'm got trying to bust your ***** at all. I am just a concerned citizen. Normally I would not have posted anything else after I say I'm out. But if I can save even one life from this, it will definitely be worth the aggravation. Now I'm definitely out. Have a Great Day.

 

Compression fittings may not be legal, but they are safe. Calm down! I've run them on heavy duty farm trucks for 15 years plus with no problems. Yall talk as if they will fail as soon as you hit the brakes, lol.

 

Yeah I wasnt too thrilled about the way the whole thing came out initially

8k PSI is the rating on those swageloks just for reference.

 

swagelok makes some stellar stuff. I work in a corporate lab and we use their compression fittings for a majority of what we do.

 

Double flared brake lines are the right way to go. That being said, we run compression fittings at work that handle couple thousand psi daily. Steel braided lines burst before the fitting lets go in my experience.

Compression fittings do have margin of error when installing. Flaring your own lines has a greater margin of error, especially double and bubble flares.

 

Nice to hear people with sense posting. Ive redone my brakes twice in the last few months due to motor swaps and turbo kits (rerouting). Fittings are still doing perfect. Zero issues, and i inspect each one I disassemble. I ruined the thread on one (no clue how) and could not for the life of me source the exact Swagelok I needed so I ended up with a Parker brand. Similar engineering/design and similar pressure rating. It installed with no issue.

 

Does anyone have experience with both the deletes. I'm interested on this also. Instead of all this flaring stock lines and swag lock bs. Would it be easier to get a roll of brake line. That coper nickel stuff and reuse factory fittings and just bend some new ones.

 

Exactly what I have said from the beginning. Its like twenty bucks for a twenty foot roll of 3/16ths brake line. Why take any chances. You need to get rid of the 1/4" stuff going to the rear anyway for it to work right. Along with the proportioning valve. The Wilwood and Strange masters are both internally proportioned. That's why so many have the problems with stopping. They are lazy and don't do it the right way. Or get real lazy and put your power booster back on. Lol

 

I'm not sure about the other one but Burkhart makes some nice stuff.

 

first time Ive heard any of the above, Mind going into more detail? Im not really after a stopping performance increase from the ABS delelte, Im wanting to clean up the engine bay some more, and since Ive done a 9" and stand alone harness swap mine doesnt work anyway. I personally like the look of the Burkhart setup, but I dont really feel it cleans up the same way as going with the wildwood proportioning valve does.

 

If you just use the ABS delete kit and keep your power booster there is no need to do anything. Burkhart offers one for stock brake lines so there is no need to even cut the brake lines in the first place. But if you really want to loose weight and go with a manual setup. The 1/4 inch brake line and the proportioning valve need to be removed. In fact just get rid of all the stock brake lines and make up your own. The Strange and the Wilwood masters are internally proportioned. Use all 3/16s brake line. And get rid of the rubber lines. We got our Strange master from Spohn, but you can get It from most venders as well. It came with the block for the firewall. We do have Strange 4 piston calipers. With their rotors all the way around. It takes very little effort to stop the car even at 150mph +. You can lock the brakes up with no problem at all. In fact after a while you forget they are even manual. We do not have the over heating rotor problems or brake fade that others seem to experience when they leave the 1/4 inch brake line going to the rear and the stock proportioning valve left in the system. The two main problems with compression fittings or swedge locks is there is absolutely no way to tell how tight or not tight they are. If they are too tight they will crush the brake line immpeading the flow of the brake fluid when you push or release the brakes. If they are too loose they can blow apart. Most people tend to over tighten them. Plus they are illeagal. Hope this helps. Best of Luck.