01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Fuse Box Relocate.

First let me say I have 3 afternoons tied up in this. It was not difficult but slow. You will strip every piece of loom and electrical tape off the car so be prepared for sticking fingers and a mess to clean up. Let me also add that I've already removed some audio wiring in the past. There are almost NO wires needing to be altered. You'll see by the end.

First, strip the car, and cut off every plug of the things you do not want/need. I plan to keep all lights, power windows and locks, and electric hatch release. The plugs that were cut were, daytime running lights (module), power driver seat, wipers, washer fluid motor, fog lights, all AC, all audio, all airbags, power mirrors, ABS, traction control, defroster, horn, all emissions, basically if it doesnt run the car, its gone.

Strip it. Mine needed to come out for a cage so it was perfect timing.



I made this really crappy drawing in MS Paint, but please reference it, the color codes tell you what harnesses do what and how we will move them. The green harness runs about from door to door INSIDE under the windshield, it contains mostly audio and door wiring. You can clearly see this harness in the pic above. The yellow is the BCM harness, its in the passenger kick panel and the harness runs mid-level in the dash. This harness gets basically unaltered except deleting wires out of it. The black goes through the driver firewall through a bulkhead fitting and contains all the power and signal for everything inside to work with everything outside the car. The blue is from the pcm to the car, all its power and interactions strictly dealing with engine functions, it runs along the top of the radiator. This is real easy, where the black meets the yellow, we will disconnect there, pull it through the firewall, back around the top of the radiator and shove it all back in the passenger side AC delete panel.



I first pulled every single unneeded wire from both door sills, and center console, that will give you a nice easy start. If you delete audio, there will be no more passenger door side wires. Driver side will still have tail-lights and hatch if you keep those. Just take your time and trace every wire. If you cut the end off, trace it through the harnesses till it terminates and clip it off.

There were 4 total wires i had to cut (to get the black harness out of the car and into the engine bay), but the rest unplugged and the bulkhead under the booster is ready to be disassembled.



It has a bees wax type stuff injection molded into it. You'll need to melt that with a heat gun and pry it apart.



I did a full disassemble bc lots of wire colors are similar, and a lot that you deleted inside led you to here, so you'll need to continue the delete under the hood. And i didnt want to probe wires.



With the 4 wires cut, and a couple off the steering column disconnected, you can pull the whole harness from the drivers side to keep going. At this point the whole thing is only connected through the passenger side.



Pull out fog lights, horn, whatever is along your way and get those fuse boxes un-mounted.



Here's the end of the harness, this was plugged in about where the yellow and black met in the crappy pic above. Once we shove it back through the passenger side, they will reach easily to reconnect, this time on the inside of the car.



For simplicity sake i tied up each headlight side wiring and fan harness as they have to come too.




Take the pcm, its passenger fender connectors, and both fuse boxes and shove em through the delete panel.





Notch your plate at the bottom corner for the starter wire, and the top corner for the PCM bulk wiring.





Im moving my battery to the back so I'm adding bulkheads here to distribute main power wires. Pcm will be mounted right next to them.



Here's the wiring I deleted. Xbox remote for size reference.



Other variations for YOUR car will include what you do with your battery, what all you delete, and how you want to get PCM wiring back through OR leave it where it was. I want the PCM inside the car for whatever dumb reason. You'll need to get headlight and fan wiring back to the front. So cut it and extend it (maybe 15 wires), route how you like. I'm doing a tubular front end so I'm waiting on that first. Remember to reconnect the black harness where you disconnected from. Make a PCM/fuse block mount to whatever you fabrication skills allow.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

Nice job! It takes some time but it's worth it to get the engine bay clean. Mine is done very similar. If you want to get more of that glue off the old pass-through wires without using the heat gun, heat up a bowl of water and dip those wires in for a bit and it will come off pretty easy.

383z

iTrader: (2)

I don't have the ***** for that.
I'll give you props

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

That part ends up behind the dash so i didnt too much worry about it.

Philhippy45

iTrader: (5)

What did you do with the wires that pass over the strut tower on the pass side? I don't see them there.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Go back to the first shitty picture with the colored squiggley lines, you're referring to the blue line. Those lines basically go from the pcm and across the front of the radiator. If you picture in your head the connectors are not there, then its just one continuous loop that comes all the way back in the drivers side. That whole blue line, connectors, fuse blocks and all come back around the passenger side and get pulled into the inside of the car. The connectors are in that big mess of wiring inside by the pcm, ive got nothing up close but they are there.

Philhippy45

iTrader: (5)

if you pulled that harness through the drivers side wouldn't you have extend it?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

No way to get the fuse blocks through the firewall on the drivers side.

Philhippy45

iTrader: (5)

so that wire on the strut couldn't you just disconnect it there unclip it all the way over the fuse box then just run it somehow through the drivers side? Or would the wire mod be more simple I'm just trying to hide as much stuff on the pass side as possible but don't want to back the wires apart nor the car body. Also what about the headlight wires?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

There is no disconnect spot on the drivers side is the issue. Its a mess.

Philhippy45

iTrader: (5)

But don't the head lights usually go to the fuse box as well or is that the harness over the strut tower? Because couldn't I just disconnect the fuses like you did run them inside then do the wire mod under the wheel well to still be able to run the head lights but no extend anything?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I think i see what you mean, those in the clips wouldnt reach feeding them back through the drivers side. Something has to be extended or cut. No two ways about it.

Philhippy45

iTrader: (5)

so basically do the wire mod on the pass side then disconnect the fuses and stuff and shove that through? But doesn't the pass side harness conduct to the fuse box if so then it really wouldn't work unless I folded it under to were the air pump was?