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Old 09-23-2018, 08:45 AM
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I’m assuming my car is extra heavy with the lq4 iron block ford 9 and no weight reduction at all.
Old 09-23-2018, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 2fast2z28
I’m assuming my car is extra heavy with the lq4 iron block ford 9 and no weight reduction at all.
Just for reference my car weighed 3650 lbs with a full tank of gas, full nitrous bottle, 10 bolt rear, LQ9 iron block, and maybe 30 lbs of crap in the trunk. Yours might be tad heavier with the 9 inch
Old 10-24-2018, 08:04 PM
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I made 493rwhp, 4.10 9” six speed, 27” tire, went 11.0 @126.
Old 11-03-2018, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Sail Hatan
I made 493rwhp, 4.10 9” six speed, 27” tire, went 11.0 @126.

what was was the weight of your car ?
Old 11-03-2018, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 2fast2z28



what was was the weight of your car ?

3200race weight, car has a bit more in it, that was the first time out with the new combo
Old 12-25-2018, 07:55 PM
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How can I improve my 60ft? I’m buying new tires over the winter thinking of going down a size..
Old 12-25-2018, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 2fast2z28
How can I improve my 60ft? I’m buying new tires over the winter thinking of going down a size..
Looking at the n/a run. It seems like a little too much clutch slip. Just have to find the right combo of throttle & clutch for the best results. I'd say stay withing the 5-6k range. Cant really comment on nitrous launches. Hope you still don't have your stock driveshaft. Good luck man. Post results.

Edit: watching the video again what I called clutch slip was probably wheel spin. Next time do a much better burn out. Pull up just past the water box & do a good burn out in 2nd gear.

Last edited by SoFla01SSLookinstok; 12-25-2018 at 09:45 PM.
Old 12-26-2018, 10:43 AM
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Maybe a graph would make it easier to see what needs to be done...

Lets say you have potential for 136mph, et potential for that is around 9.70 w/ 1.30 60'. I don't know what twin disc you have, but for the typical twin I would suggest a hit controller which would allow you to consistently hold off the twin's lockup point until about 20' down the track, which would be about 34mph. That would keep your rpm above 4500 after launch.

Here's time/distance/speed averages for a 1.30 60'...
0.3 sec 2.8' 12.7mph
0.4 sec 4.9' 17.0mph
0.5 sec 7.8' 21.2mph
0.6 sec 11.2' 25.5mph
0.7 sec 15.2' 29.7mph
0.8 sec 19.9' 34.0mph
0.9 sec 25.2' 38.3mph
1.0 sec 31.2' 42.5mph

Here's a graph of your ratios/shifts/speeds for 6700 shift points...



The purpose of the graph is to show that if you don't want rpm to fall below 3000 for the nitrous, your clutch will have to slip at least to about 23mph, or about 0.55sec. If you want to get the most from your car, you are going to have to get more aggressive than that.
To raise the minimum rpm after launch to around 4000, your clutch will have to slip at least to about 31mph, or about 0.75sec.
To raise the minimum rpm after launch to around 5000, your clutch will have to slip at least to about 38mph, or about 0.90sec.

Personally I would add a clutch hit controller to consistently delay your twin's lockup point, launch off the limiter, then use a simple timed delay for the hit of your nitrous. The reason for the nitrous delay is that when you dump the clutch and dead hook, your rotating assy is going to shed some inertia energy until the car gains enough speed to sync up with engine rpm. The hit controller will soften the twin's hit to a manageable level of energy release, but you want the nitrous hit to pick up as soon as that inertia release ends. The goal is a smooth/seamless transition from inertia hit to nitrous hit that keeps the tires planted and the chassis loaded.

Grant




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