What will it take to go 6.20-6.30's N/A?
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
What will it take to go 6.20-6.30's N/A?
Currently cam only BTR S.4 (SD tuned) and about 3250 RW. 7.0's@95mph 1.49 - 60' (SS4000) in 2500 DA.
Tired of being the slow car on the big end and need to keep up with the faster cars in Footbrake class at my track. Last Saturday, Footbrake went 8 rounds and I went out in 5th because I misjudged how far ahead I was. Me vs 6.30 car - My .523 rt to his .579 - blipped throttle a couple times on big end and went 7.059 on 7.06 dial. FML
What will it take to go consistent 6.30's in 2500DA @3200 RW, N/A?
Tired of being the slow car on the big end and need to keep up with the faster cars in Footbrake class at my track. Last Saturday, Footbrake went 8 rounds and I went out in 5th because I misjudged how far ahead I was. Me vs 6.30 car - My .523 rt to his .579 - blipped throttle a couple times on big end and went 7.059 on 7.06 dial. FML
What will it take to go consistent 6.30's in 2500DA @3200 RW, N/A?
#3
TECH Veteran
Not enough info on your car and the mods you have already....
#6
On The Tree
Thread Starter
LS6 intake, FTRA, BTR S.4 cam, Kooks 1 7/8, SLP Tru-Dual, FLT Stage 5 4L60, SS4000, MWC Fab 9, Alum ctr w/spool, 4.11, alum DS, MWC LCA/PHR, Strange Race brakes x4, manual master, MWC K-member, upper/lower A-arms, F/R bumper supports, Viking dbl adjustable x4, Hoosier QTP 27x11.50 on 15" Weld RTS, 17" Alumastar front
I just pulled it out of a 10 yr storage last year and promptly smoked the Stg. 3 trans. Got new trans & converter, then blew 10-bolt, which took trans out again... (Definitely behind on my build plans atm.) I keep logs and don't have a weather station (yet), but the car is changing so much, I don't have good data on it. Winter plans include a cage, relocate battery and more weight reduction. It's about 3250 RW and still has A/C. I say it's not going to go much under current weight, but that'll prolly get thrown out the window, because race car.
It should go 6.90's in good air. Considering what I have and how fast it is currently; which shortblock will I need?
SBE LS3
418-427" LS3
or 427-441 LS7
How consistent would a Procharged car be?
I just pulled it out of a 10 yr storage last year and promptly smoked the Stg. 3 trans. Got new trans & converter, then blew 10-bolt, which took trans out again... (Definitely behind on my build plans atm.) I keep logs and don't have a weather station (yet), but the car is changing so much, I don't have good data on it. Winter plans include a cage, relocate battery and more weight reduction. It's about 3250 RW and still has A/C. I say it's not going to go much under current weight, but that'll prolly get thrown out the window, because race car.
It should go 6.90's in good air. Considering what I have and how fast it is currently; which shortblock will I need?
SBE LS3
418-427" LS3
or 427-441 LS7
How consistent would a Procharged car be?
Last edited by Rick01SS; 09-20-2018 at 08:23 PM.
#7
TECH Veteran
I think a proper built 408-416ci will get you there with the right heads, cam and intake. You could also drop 2-3 tenths right now going to a turbo 350 tranmission.
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#8
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
If you have the cash, the bigger motor will get you there easier. if its a race car, ditch the ac and anything else you dont need, do a turbo 350 like stated above. I'm no bracket racer and ive never had a super charger so i can anser how consistent that would be. My thought process is if you can duplicate your process (temps, boost, stall speed etc) every run then it should be pretty consistent. air to water with ice in the tank seems like it would be the best bet. Like i said, I dunno, but throwing ideas out there
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
.2-.3 from a trans change? Tell me more about the 350. T400 not as good? I race in D, with a T350/400 I'd have to shift it or get an airshifter, correct?
Really appreciate the input!
Really appreciate the input!
#10
Sounds like you might be dialing in a little too slow of an ET, and counting on "stripe games" to win?
Drop that dial in a little. A .523 is a good R/T. I wouldn't worry if the car is slower than the other cars. The pressure is on them to catch you.
In my limited bracket racing experience (with a manual trans, no less!) I used to dial in a time that was .02 faster than I had ever gone, then ran it out the back door. I was trying to set new PB's, and went on bracket nights for better track prep. I got down to the final both times I did that.
Al
Drop that dial in a little. A .523 is a good R/T. I wouldn't worry if the car is slower than the other cars. The pressure is on them to catch you.
In my limited bracket racing experience (with a manual trans, no less!) I used to dial in a time that was .02 faster than I had ever gone, then ran it out the back door. I was trying to set new PB's, and went on bracket nights for better track prep. I got down to the final both times I did that.
Al
#14
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (13)
Op our cars are so near identical it crazy!difference is I race more 1/4 than 1/8 mile. So 1st question is this a driver? Second question is do you race1/8 mile only? Mines about 60/40 track/street, IF yours is mainly a track car; send that converter back for a restall to a 4400 and throw some steeper gear in there (4.56-4.88)w/ maybe a 26” tire or maybe even go with a power glide or T350-400. Lose some weight where you can and see where that may net you.
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
I had a cam only ls1 that went 6.90s to the 1/8th and trapped 97-98mph every pass, pretty similar setup to yours. The car now has a 14.1 ls7 with ls7 casting heads that have had a lot of work done and a healthy cam. I also went to a th400 over the 4l60 this time, but went with a smaller 3600 stall... no track times yet, but I see myself going to a much higher stall in the future. Goal is for that setup to go 6.00- 5.90’s in the 1/8th in a ws6 at 3100 lb. race weight
#16
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
If you want it to go fast n/a call Lenny at ultimate tell him I sent you, and you need one of his 8 inch as converters, should stall in the 6000-6200 range.... if you want to go fast that’s what it takes.
light car, a lot of gear, a big converter, and an engine you’re willing to spin lots of rpm with.
light car, a lot of gear, a big converter, and an engine you’re willing to spin lots of rpm with.
#17
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Went 6.89@98mph in +100DA.
6k stall is definitely not what I'm looking for. It's 90% track, 10% street car. Winter plans are 8.50 CM cage, !HVAC, VCM pin-on hood and a few other weight savings.
6k stall is definitely not what I'm looking for. It's 90% track, 10% street car. Winter plans are 8.50 CM cage, !HVAC, VCM pin-on hood and a few other weight savings.