Joe Kizzire

Yesterday a group of us went to Muscle Shoals
to a heads-up EFI race. They also had 10.5 Outlaw and EZ Street classes. The class I was in was called Super Modified. It was you basic power adder class with the turbo Buicks thrown in for good measure.

Time trials started at 2:00PM, it was 95 degrees and the track was slick. The rubber was balling up on the starting line and any hope of getting the car to get a good 60ft time was out the window. My best 60 was 1.66 with normal 60's around 1.50 or lower leaving on the nitrous.

This was the first time I ran win my new and improve nitrous system which is two NOS Soft Plum nozzles instead one. Distribution and atomization is better so I get more horsepower with the same amount of nitrous. It also the first time running nitrous with the new cam.

All was well. I was the number one qualifier with a fish tailing off and on the throttle 6.95 with a 1.72 60ft but get this... the mph was 106.72!!!
There was a odd number of cars so I got the bye first round and decided to make a pass to try and keep lane choice. I staged and left, felt a vibration and lost the driveshat at the 60 ft line. After getting the car on the trailer and inspecting it I found that I had twisted the torque arm into something that looked like a pretzel causing the driveshaft problem and taking out all the parking brake cables and in general making a mess out of the underside of my car.

Now it's back to the drawing board on the torque arm. I've got some ideas and talked to one of the chasis builders at the race and I think it's time to build something that is not a compromise.

Running on the back woods tracks around here requires a different approach. If I was running on good hooking tracks all the time a BMR or Random Tech would do but but like most of the other aftermarket torque arms they more or less keep the instant center in the stock location which is a good compromise for going strait and turning corners but I want to move the instant center back in the car where it will hit the tires harder. I want adjustabillity so I can move the instant up or down also.

Oh well I had a great time at the race. The car is making good horsepower with the new cam and nitrous system. Good enough to find the weak link.LOL

<small>[ July 21, 2002, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: Joe Kizzire ]</small>

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

Joe, Madman makes a killer setup for high hp cars.
Madman torque arm setup
Get that POS back on the road and come to La. for your annual *** whippin.

Tim

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

Tim Joe is a putz but you run 11.85 with heads/cam. I don't think you've earned the right to talk **** to him. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Terry Burger:
<strong>Tim Joe is a putz but you run 11.85 with heads/cam. I don't think you've earned the right to talk **** to him. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Terry, if we want lip from you, we'll just rattle our zippers.

Tim

Joe Kizzire

Tim I've looked at Madman's torque arm and it's like I said.... It puts the instant center to far foward. I think the best thing for me to do is draw out what I want and take the car to the chassis builder that did the back half job on the Mustang and let him build what I want out of chromemoly.

Hi Terry how are you???? Have you ever been 106 mph in an 1/8 mile in your car????
What's that you say????

That's right Terry my car is slow.LOL

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

Joe,

Sorry to hear about your misfortune at the track this weekend.

Really cool that you were the #1 qualifier . <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

I had problems also with the sorry *** Hoosier tires.

Good luck with the new tq arm. Let me know what up come up with. <img border="0" alt="[angel]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_angel.gif" />

ED Ventura

Joe,
I am in the same boat.We are trying a short arm now.I just recently snaped the front of my spohn arm.We fixed that then on the next launch (6500 rpm clutch dumps) we ripped the rear top hiem apart spinning the rear up under the car.What a mess.

What we have now is is a molly peice about 7 inches shorter than the spohn arm.It attaches in the front with a set up That attaches to a tubular cossmember betwween my subframes very simalar to the bmr extreeme.But we are making it adjustable up and down in the front to change the instant center.
The rear attaches to a custom molly piece that is a work of art.It is boltable to my 9 inch.But the nice feature is we were able to Get the spread between the hiem joints to a distance of 8 inches.

First time to the track was saterday.We did not have time to weld in the antiroll bar.So we had mixed results.The car would bite extreemly hard lift the left front then instally jam the right rear up then unload the whole rear and spin badly (best 60 a terrible 1.8 With absolutlly no track prep and 100 radial tire cars and about 4 slick cars)

We did play with a few shock seettings but it did not help. When we reilized that we need to srew the tires to the rims,We quite.(I no it is getting much more bite because that was never a problem)

With the antirollbar installed and the car scaled over the next week or 2 I am looking for much better results.

ED

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

Joe I dont think you have seen my T/A up close. It has more adjustments than you think. The rear is adjustable up and down on the rear bracket, plus the front is adjustable up and down. The shorter the bar the more violent the hit on the tires BUT the car tends to unload after 100ft or so. The idea is to carry the front end about 4-6 inches as far out as you can. Call me Joe and I can explain it better.