15" vs 16" draglites
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On The Tree
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From: Houston
15" vs 16" draglites I want to get a set of draglites for 02 ws6, and everyone says you gotta grind the brake calipers for 15s. Are 16" rims a huge step down as far as traction. I know it's less rubber to flex on the side, but I'm only getting ET Streets, because I still have the stock rear end. I also know that their are other rims that will fit with 15s, but they cost twice as much.
TECH Junkie
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From: Melbourne, FL
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites You will be giving up some potential in the traction department with the shorter sidewall of a 16" tire. Also, there is nowhere near as wide of a selection of available drag racing tires in a 16" size.
AFAIK, the only 16" Welds are the XP's, which are a lot heavier than the standard 15" Draglites or Prostars.
AFAIK, the only 16" Welds are the XP's, which are a lot heavier than the standard 15" Draglites or Prostars.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Melbourne, FL
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites I think mmiller is correct, some grinding is required with the 16" wheels also, but it's not much.
As far as fitting 15's, the amount of grinding will vary upon how thick of a spacer you're willing to run. I still have to run a thin spacer with my Wilwood rear brakes due to the shape of the calipers.
As long as you're careful not to take away too much material and weaken the calipers, it's really just a "grind and fit" operation. Look where the interference is, and grind some. Try over and over until they fit.
Originally I grinded away too much material and ended up breaking the ears that hold the pad in the caliper (took a long time for it to actually break). That's why I put Wilwood discs on the rear.
As far as fitting 15's, the amount of grinding will vary upon how thick of a spacer you're willing to run. I still have to run a thin spacer with my Wilwood rear brakes due to the shape of the calipers.
As long as you're careful not to take away too much material and weaken the calipers, it's really just a "grind and fit" operation. Look where the interference is, and grind some. Try over and over until they fit.
Originally I grinded away too much material and ended up breaking the ears that hold the pad in the caliper (took a long time for it to actually break). That's why I put Wilwood discs on the rear.
TECH Junkie
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From: Melbourne, FL
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jawsk2:
<strong>Thanks for the info... one last stupid thing; do you have to grind the front for skinnies, or do you just use spacers to put them out to the fenders.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Either way will work on the front. I grinded enough to fit my 15x3.5's with no spacer. I'm pretty sure you can run a spacer and bolt them right on with no grinding, too.
<strong>Thanks for the info... one last stupid thing; do you have to grind the front for skinnies, or do you just use spacers to put them out to the fenders.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Either way will work on the front. I grinded enough to fit my 15x3.5's with no spacer. I'm pretty sure you can run a spacer and bolt them right on with no grinding, too.
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Launching!
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From: Windsor,Ct 06095
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites For what its worth,I had Draglite XPs on the front of my Trans AM 15x4.5 and I had to grind the caliper brackets.Im now running Centerline Convo-Pros 15x4 w 1.75 bs and 15x8.5 with 5 in bs and they went on with no rubbing or grinding what so ever. I really need about a 5.5 or 6 in bs but that is the deepest they go.With a Hoosier Quick Time 275/50-15 the tire is flush with the top of the wheel well.
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On The Tree
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From: Houston
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> For what its worth,I had Draglite XPs on the front of my Trans AM 15x4.5 and I had to grind the caliper brackets.Im now running Centerline Convo-Pros 15x4 w 1.75 bs and 15x8.5 with 5 in bs and they went on with no rubbing or grinding what so ever. I really need about a 5.5 or 6 in bs but that is the deepest they go.With a Hoosier Quick Time 275/50-15 the tire is flush with the top of the wheel well. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">But, are they as light (on the scale and wallet)
as the Draglites? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
as the Draglites? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Launching!
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From: Windsor,Ct 06095
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites The front wheels and tires are lighter than the Draglite XP by itself.If you check Jegs I believe the front Convo-Pros are around $130each and the rears are around $160 each.I paid around $200 apiece for the Welds.
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites I used to have:
16x8 draglite xp
16x9 draglite xp
They both fit w/o any grinding or use of spacers in back.
IMO I would do a 16x9 draglite xp with 26x11.5x16 et streets IF:
-To avoid grinding and for the best possible combo in a 16.
-But the XP's weigh the same as stock.
Here is a pic of those rears on my car:
https://ls1tech.com/moderators/psj/psjmfba2bg.jpg
16x8 draglite xp
16x9 draglite xp
They both fit w/o any grinding or use of spacers in back.
IMO I would do a 16x9 draglite xp with 26x11.5x16 et streets IF:
-To avoid grinding and for the best possible combo in a 16.
-But the XP's weigh the same as stock.
Here is a pic of those rears on my car:
https://ls1tech.com/moderators/psj/psjmfba2bg.jpg
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jawsk2:
<strong>Cool, thanks for all the info guys.
How many of you are running the stock rear end with the ET Streets?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I run 26" x 11.5" x 15" ET Streets on 15" x 10" Pro Stars. To me, running a Weld XP wheel defeats the purpose of going to a Weld wheel. Most people go to Weld's because they are light weight. Since XP's weigh the same as a stock wheel, whats the purpose?
<strong>Cool, thanks for all the info guys.
How many of you are running the stock rear end with the ET Streets?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I run 26" x 11.5" x 15" ET Streets on 15" x 10" Pro Stars. To me, running a Weld XP wheel defeats the purpose of going to a Weld wheel. Most people go to Weld's because they are light weight. Since XP's weigh the same as a stock wheel, whats the purpose?
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites I am just reporting what works for folks who want to run Weld rims and not touch their calipers. Hoosier does make a 28 inch tall slick that fits 16" rims too.
I am running 15x10 Pro Stars with 28x10.0x15 Hoosier QTP slicks.
I am running 15x10 Pro Stars with 28x10.0x15 Hoosier QTP slicks.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 77
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Re: 15" vs 16" draglites You can choose the bogarts which are lighter then then both the welds and centerlines. Grinding is not an issue with 15's. These rims are nicer quality then both styles also. They are not stamped out pieces.
They have less issues with stud lengths also as they are only 1.25 inches thick (ls1 style) 1 inch think (lt1 style) hubs whereas the welds fronts end up at 1.75 inches thick with a spacer which IF you used your stock studs, the studs will not even reach the end of your hub. They will be approx 1/2 of an inch from the end!
With the bogarts the fronts and rear stock studs will run TO the end of the hub. Actuallly 1/4 inch out of the hub if your using lt1 style rims.
They are alittle more expensive then the welds and centerlines (approx 150.00 more then the centerline warrior series total price for the wheels) BUT you get what you pay for. Quality wise, there really is no comparison of the bogarts between a weld and a centerline wheel.
If you want to go with the least expensive rim that works, go with the welds.
email me if you need more help.
steve@performancepartsoutlet.com
They have less issues with stud lengths also as they are only 1.25 inches thick (ls1 style) 1 inch think (lt1 style) hubs whereas the welds fronts end up at 1.75 inches thick with a spacer which IF you used your stock studs, the studs will not even reach the end of your hub. They will be approx 1/2 of an inch from the end!
With the bogarts the fronts and rear stock studs will run TO the end of the hub. Actuallly 1/4 inch out of the hub if your using lt1 style rims.
They are alittle more expensive then the welds and centerlines (approx 150.00 more then the centerline warrior series total price for the wheels) BUT you get what you pay for. Quality wise, there really is no comparison of the bogarts between a weld and a centerline wheel.
If you want to go with the least expensive rim that works, go with the welds.
email me if you need more help.
steve@performancepartsoutlet.com
