Went to track with new convertor and cam...bitter sweet results.
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: DFW area, tx
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Tonight I took my car the to track (1/8) for the first time since I had the vig 2800 convertor and G5 cam installed. Although Im having some issues with the results of the cam power wise, tonight was weird. I made 3 passes and none were decent. It felt like my tires were made of grease!!!! The first run, I held it at about 1500rpm, and when the light went I floored it. It felt like I was just sitting there, I let off a bit and they finally hooked. horrible run. Secong run I didn't hold it at 1500rpm, WOT on green. My tires spun until about 1/2 down the track and I stared getting sideways so i had to let off. 3rd run....I baby it off the line and WOT at about 4000rpm.....same thing!!! I can't hook worth ****. and the thing is Im not getting all I should out of the cam due to some issues. I know alot has to do with the fact Im on street tires (somewhat decent...bridgestone potenzas) but I didn't think it would be this bad! I guess I should just hope my rear can take some nittos. Is there anyway I can buy some cheap wheels just to put the nittos on? Any other suggestions as far as driving etc? Thanks. Sorry for the length.
#2
TECH Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Monroe LA
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Search the classifieds for some used wheels.
My stock rear is still going strong after hundreds of track passes.
My stock rear is still going strong after hundreds of track passes.
#3
Restricted User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 7,603
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dude, let me tell ya, street tires SUCK. Just put Nitto's on and made first track runs with them, UNF*CKING BELIEVABLE difference. Still can't launch at stratuspheric RPM levels, but some day maybe. Going from a comfy 2.1 60' on streets to 1.8 on DR's is nice. I've been running ET Streets and now DR's and the rear is fine. Don't pull so many rpms unless you have ET Streets, DR's are good, but you'll fry em too at high loads like that unles you have a well prepped track. Good-luck.
Charlie.
Charlie.
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: DFW area, tx
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Cool, thanks for the help. The fact that I couldn't hook with street tires was kinda neat, but still sucked in the since I couldn't get a good pass. Anyon know a good pair of rims to get? Like I said, I was just going to get another set for the nittos and leave my street tires on my dailys. Also..what size should I get? stok are 16 inch with 245's on them.
EDIT: I just re-read the other post about searching the classifieds..i'll try that too. Thanks!
<small>[ November 09, 2002, 10:47 AM: Message edited by: DrowningMan ]</small>
EDIT: I just re-read the other post about searching the classifieds..i'll try that too. Thanks!
<small>[ November 09, 2002, 10:47 AM: Message edited by: DrowningMan ]</small>
#6
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: DFW area, tx
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Chopstix:
<strong>Forget the drag radials if you are going to use them only at the track. Go with the ET streets or a full slick, your timeslips will thank you.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My time slips might thank me but will my rear? I still have the stock 10-bolt, I figure its final day will come sometime.....but I wasn't planning on any time soon. lol
Also, What size rim should I look into getting? like I said, Im on stock 16's.
<small>[ November 09, 2002, 11:32 AM: Message edited by: DrowningMan ]</small>
<strong>Forget the drag radials if you are going to use them only at the track. Go with the ET streets or a full slick, your timeslips will thank you.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">My time slips might thank me but will my rear? I still have the stock 10-bolt, I figure its final day will come sometime.....but I wasn't planning on any time soon. lol
Also, What size rim should I look into getting? like I said, Im on stock 16's.
<small>[ November 09, 2002, 11:32 AM: Message edited by: DrowningMan ]</small>
#7
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Spanish Fort, Alabama
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How about buying 2 rims to match what you have on your car and mounting the drag radials on them?
Thats what I did. I bought 2 used Z28 rims and mounted my BFGs on them, that way, I'm not wasting the tires by driving on them everyday, and plus, when I go to the track, I don't have mismatched rims. I don't think you will need ET streets, for your combo, I believe drag radials will be fine, and stop worrying about your rear, automatic cars are not that hard on them.
later,
Albert
Thats what I did. I bought 2 used Z28 rims and mounted my BFGs on them, that way, I'm not wasting the tires by driving on them everyday, and plus, when I go to the track, I don't have mismatched rims. I don't think you will need ET streets, for your combo, I believe drag radials will be fine, and stop worrying about your rear, automatic cars are not that hard on them.
later,
Albert
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Murphy, TX
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Zero traction last night at Ennis, bummer since they were constantly fussing with the track. Don't be thinking it was just you.
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: DFW area, tx
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ToplessTexan:
<strong>Zero traction last night at Ennis, bummer since they were constantly fussing with the track. Don't be thinking it was just you.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">it was at denton actually. Also...should I get two 17" rims so I can get a wider tire? but i've heard since its a thinner tire traction is always better. Thanks for all the help, Im a bit of a shmucnk..lol.
<strong>Zero traction last night at Ennis, bummer since they were constantly fussing with the track. Don't be thinking it was just you.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">it was at denton actually. Also...should I get two 17" rims so I can get a wider tire? but i've heard since its a thinner tire traction is always better. Thanks for all the help, Im a bit of a shmucnk..lol.
#10
TECH Addict
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lewisville, Texas
Posts: 2,319
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Drownding,
I was at Denton last night in the 99 NBM T/A with silver stripes. I was running a 75LB shot of N02 on top of H/C and hooking pretty good, just a little spin. I run MT ET Streets(26x10.5x16) on the stock 16" rims. Just keep your stock 16" rims and give Lane Hembree a call at 972 986-8366 he'll hook you up with the tires.
P.S, I have the stock 10 bolt rear and a 3200 VIG stall. Your stall RPM(2800) is too low for that cam.
Mark
<small>[ November 09, 2002, 10:57 PM: Message edited by: Elite_Hot_Rod ]</small>
I was at Denton last night in the 99 NBM T/A with silver stripes. I was running a 75LB shot of N02 on top of H/C and hooking pretty good, just a little spin. I run MT ET Streets(26x10.5x16) on the stock 16" rims. Just keep your stock 16" rims and give Lane Hembree a call at 972 986-8366 he'll hook you up with the tires.
P.S, I have the stock 10 bolt rear and a 3200 VIG stall. Your stall RPM(2800) is too low for that cam.
Mark
<small>[ November 09, 2002, 10:57 PM: Message edited by: Elite_Hot_Rod ]</small>
#12
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Richardson, TX, USA
Posts: 666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by DrowningMan:
<strong>I guess I should just hope my rear can take some nittos. Is there anyway I can buy some cheap wheels just to put the nittos on?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nitto's won't cause you to break your rearend. Also, I have Four 1999 16X8 T/A Rims for sale that you could mount Nitto's on.
I am local to you in Richardson. PM me.
Mir Naziruddin
<strong>I guess I should just hope my rear can take some nittos. Is there anyway I can buy some cheap wheels just to put the nittos on?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nitto's won't cause you to break your rearend. Also, I have Four 1999 16X8 T/A Rims for sale that you could mount Nitto's on.
I am local to you in Richardson. PM me.
Mir Naziruddin
#13
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Murphy, TX
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by DrowningMan:
<strong>it was at denton actually.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">There's your trouble, you ought to run 1/4s. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>Also...should I get two 17" rims so I can get a wider tire? but i've heard since its a thinner tire traction is always better.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sidewall (flex) is more valuable than section width if you ask me. I'd say stick with 16".
<strong>it was at denton actually.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">There's your trouble, you ought to run 1/4s. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>Also...should I get two 17" rims so I can get a wider tire? but i've heard since its a thinner tire traction is always better.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sidewall (flex) is more valuable than section width if you ask me. I'd say stick with 16".
#14
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
First off, I agree with Topless Texan. Most people overlook the amount of sidewall you get from the smaller-rimmed tires. I'd get a set of 16" BFG DR's if you're stuck on DR's and not ET Streets. You will NOT have any rearend problems with stock gears and a 2800 Vig. I'm still on the stock 10-bolt with a set of Genuine GM 3.73's, and I've pulled as quick as a 1.52 60' with no problems. I easily have over 100 runs on my 10-bolt, and I've never been at the track with anything less than ET Streets. The majority of the runs have been on my Hoosier 26x9x15 slicks. I don't recommend getting Nittos for the track. If you're going to spend the money, get a set of ET Streets and mount them on a set of stock wheels. In order to get the ET out of an A4, you HAVE to get the car hooking. The 60' is where the autos shine, so if you can't launch the car you're giving up a LOT of ET. You should be in the 1.80 range for 60' times (depending on raceweight) with the Vig 2800, FYI.
Even with a tame 2800 Vig, you're going to roast the tires. It hits the tires much harder than the stock converter. Unless you're at an awesome track like HRP, true street radials are not going to hook at all. You could definitely use more converter to optimize the setup, but the Vig 2800 is very streetable! I've tried the Vig 2800, 3200, 3600, and 4000 (along with 5 Yanks), and the Vig 3200 is the best street/strip converter that I've tried. It feels very close to the Vig 2800 on the street, but you'll get added performance at the track. On average, you should pull another .05 or so in the 60', and your shift extensions will be better vs. the 2800. You have a free stall change within the first two years of purchase for the Vig converters, so you can have it re-stalled to 3200 for no charge; just something to think about. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
What kind of power are you putting to the rear wheels, and have you done all of the bolt-ons? (headers, ORP, cutout/catback, etc.) I assume you have custom tuning; who did it?
Trevor
<small>[ November 10, 2002, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: Trevor D ]</small>
Even with a tame 2800 Vig, you're going to roast the tires. It hits the tires much harder than the stock converter. Unless you're at an awesome track like HRP, true street radials are not going to hook at all. You could definitely use more converter to optimize the setup, but the Vig 2800 is very streetable! I've tried the Vig 2800, 3200, 3600, and 4000 (along with 5 Yanks), and the Vig 3200 is the best street/strip converter that I've tried. It feels very close to the Vig 2800 on the street, but you'll get added performance at the track. On average, you should pull another .05 or so in the 60', and your shift extensions will be better vs. the 2800. You have a free stall change within the first two years of purchase for the Vig converters, so you can have it re-stalled to 3200 for no charge; just something to think about. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
What kind of power are you putting to the rear wheels, and have you done all of the bolt-ons? (headers, ORP, cutout/catback, etc.) I assume you have custom tuning; who did it?
Trevor
<small>[ November 10, 2002, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: Trevor D ]</small>
#15
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: DFW area, tx
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Elite_Hot_Rod:
<strong>I was at Denton last night in the 99 NBM T/A with silver stripes. I was running a 75LB shot of N02 on top of H/C and hooking pretty good, just a little spin. I run MT ET Streets(26x10.5x16) on the stock 16" rims. Just keep your stock 16" rims and give Lane Hembree a call at 972 986-8366 he'll hook you up with the tires.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I remember seeing your car run...pretty damn quick. I was the fool in the green z28 sliding around everywhere.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Trevor D:
<strong>First off, I agree with Topless Texan. Most people overlook the amount of sidewall you get from the smaller-rimmed tires. I'd get a set of 16" BFG DR's if you're stuck on DR's and not ET Streets. You will NOT have any rearend problems with stock gears and a 2800 Vig. I'm still on the stock 10-bolt with a set of Genuine GM 3.73's, and I've pulled as quick as a 1.52 60' with no problems. I easily have over 100 runs on my 10-bolt, and I've never been at the track with anything less than ET Streets. The majority of the runs have been on my Hoosier 26x9x15 slicks. I don't recommend getting Nittos for the track. If you're going to spend the money, get a set of ET Streets and mount them on a set of stock wheels. In order to get the ET out of an A4, you HAVE to get the car hooking. The 60' is where the autos shine, so if you can't launch the car you're giving up a LOT of ET. You should be in the 1.80 range for 60' times (depending on raceweight) with the Vig 2800, FYI.
Even with a tame 2800 Vig, you're going to roast the tires. It hits the tires much harder than the stock converter. Unless you're at an awesome track like HRP, true street radials are not going to hook at all. You could definitely use more converter to optimize the setup, but the Vig 2800 is very streetable! I've tried the Vig 2800, 3200, 3600, and 4000 (along with 5 Yanks), and the Vig 3200 is the best street/strip converter that I've tried. It feels very close to the Vig 2800 on the street, but you'll get added performance at the track. On average, you should pull another .05 or so in the 60', and your shift extensions will be better vs. the 2800. You have a free stall change within the first two years of purchase for the Vig converters, so you can have it re-stalled to 3200 for no charge; just something to think about. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
What kind of power are you putting to the rear wheels, and have you done all of the bolt-ons? (headers, ORP, cutout/catback, etc.) I assume you have custom tuning; who did it?
Trevor</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for all the info! I really don't know alot as you can tell. With what I've heard here Im actually considering ET streets now. Power wise...well those are the issues I was talking about in my first post. I had LGM install the convertor, G5 cam and tuning. I only picked up like 16rwhp and 10rwtq. They check my engine and it was fine so we think the problem lies in my exhaust..(MAC headers with cats...but kinda mauled) I put down 322 rwhp and 340 rwtq after tuning. if your wondering..all my mods include G5 cam, vig 2800, borla, MAC headers w/ cats, lid.
Once again, thanks to everyone for the input!
<strong>I was at Denton last night in the 99 NBM T/A with silver stripes. I was running a 75LB shot of N02 on top of H/C and hooking pretty good, just a little spin. I run MT ET Streets(26x10.5x16) on the stock 16" rims. Just keep your stock 16" rims and give Lane Hembree a call at 972 986-8366 he'll hook you up with the tires.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I remember seeing your car run...pretty damn quick. I was the fool in the green z28 sliding around everywhere.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Trevor D:
<strong>First off, I agree with Topless Texan. Most people overlook the amount of sidewall you get from the smaller-rimmed tires. I'd get a set of 16" BFG DR's if you're stuck on DR's and not ET Streets. You will NOT have any rearend problems with stock gears and a 2800 Vig. I'm still on the stock 10-bolt with a set of Genuine GM 3.73's, and I've pulled as quick as a 1.52 60' with no problems. I easily have over 100 runs on my 10-bolt, and I've never been at the track with anything less than ET Streets. The majority of the runs have been on my Hoosier 26x9x15 slicks. I don't recommend getting Nittos for the track. If you're going to spend the money, get a set of ET Streets and mount them on a set of stock wheels. In order to get the ET out of an A4, you HAVE to get the car hooking. The 60' is where the autos shine, so if you can't launch the car you're giving up a LOT of ET. You should be in the 1.80 range for 60' times (depending on raceweight) with the Vig 2800, FYI.
Even with a tame 2800 Vig, you're going to roast the tires. It hits the tires much harder than the stock converter. Unless you're at an awesome track like HRP, true street radials are not going to hook at all. You could definitely use more converter to optimize the setup, but the Vig 2800 is very streetable! I've tried the Vig 2800, 3200, 3600, and 4000 (along with 5 Yanks), and the Vig 3200 is the best street/strip converter that I've tried. It feels very close to the Vig 2800 on the street, but you'll get added performance at the track. On average, you should pull another .05 or so in the 60', and your shift extensions will be better vs. the 2800. You have a free stall change within the first two years of purchase for the Vig converters, so you can have it re-stalled to 3200 for no charge; just something to think about. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
What kind of power are you putting to the rear wheels, and have you done all of the bolt-ons? (headers, ORP, cutout/catback, etc.) I assume you have custom tuning; who did it?
Trevor</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for all the info! I really don't know alot as you can tell. With what I've heard here Im actually considering ET streets now. Power wise...well those are the issues I was talking about in my first post. I had LGM install the convertor, G5 cam and tuning. I only picked up like 16rwhp and 10rwtq. They check my engine and it was fine so we think the problem lies in my exhaust..(MAC headers with cats...but kinda mauled) I put down 322 rwhp and 340 rwtq after tuning. if your wondering..all my mods include G5 cam, vig 2800, borla, MAC headers w/ cats, lid.
Once again, thanks to everyone for the input!
#16
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You have 8-10 RWHP just by pulling the Mac cats off; they're crap. There must be something going on with the tuning because you should be putting down more power than that. When are you going to the track again? I have a laptop and AutoTap, so we could see what your timing, O2's, etc. looks like.
Trevor
Trevor
#17
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: DFW area, tx
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Im not really sure when Im going next, we went friday night kinda at the last moment. Yeah...Im ditching my exhaust. I got some long tubes and I was going to go with the true-dual setup w/ no cats. LG also mentioned something about my transmission. It works fine, no slipping but suggested there might be something quirky in there robbing a bit (it does have 77K on it.) I asked them a good tranny shop and daves racing transmission was suggest, Im thinking about having it looked at just to see if there anything wrong. As far as tuning, I figured they got it mostly right when they tuned it on the dyno. then again I never saw it myself. I appreciate the offer, I'll PM if I find out when Im going again.
#18
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Warsaw, Va
Posts: 4,316
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
245/50/16 nittos should help you alot..
mainly since you have a 2800stall. Im getting ready to get some et streets since with the vig3600 and a 224 cam traction is hopeless. I use to cut 1.58-1.60's on nittos before the cam. After I went to 1.66's cause I cant find the perfect spot without roasting the tires. Now with the nittos about dead i can only hit 1.9's spinning letting off and spinning somemore <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
but a new set of nittos should get ya much better ET's. Make sure the track prep is decent though and do a NICE burnout
mainly since you have a 2800stall. Im getting ready to get some et streets since with the vig3600 and a 224 cam traction is hopeless. I use to cut 1.58-1.60's on nittos before the cam. After I went to 1.66's cause I cant find the perfect spot without roasting the tires. Now with the nittos about dead i can only hit 1.9's spinning letting off and spinning somemore <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
but a new set of nittos should get ya much better ET's. Make sure the track prep is decent though and do a NICE burnout
#19
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Vertigo
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
DM - like Trevor said - don't waiste your time with DR's on our tracks.. ET Streets or slicks are the only ways to go with your converter.
Sounds like you might be stalling it a little high too. I just foot braked to about 8-900 rpms with my Vig3200, which seemed to work best for me anyway.
good luck
Sounds like you might be stalling it a little high too. I just foot braked to about 8-900 rpms with my Vig3200, which seemed to work best for me anyway.
good luck
#20
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: DFW area, tx
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Lane,
Im not sure if it went through, but did you get my e-mail regarding the true dual setup? (poisonmy.well@verizon.net)I used the address from your site. Thanks for the info, Im now looking into picking up a pair of ET streets sometime in the future. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
<small>[ November 11, 2002, 11:33 AM: Message edited by: DrowningMan ]</small>
Im not sure if it went through, but did you get my e-mail regarding the true dual setup? (poisonmy.well@verizon.net)I used the address from your site. Thanks for the info, Im now looking into picking up a pair of ET streets sometime in the future. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
<small>[ November 11, 2002, 11:33 AM: Message edited by: DrowningMan ]</small>