Clearance with 28" tires
Re: Clearance with 28" tires They will fot OK, but you will get some rubbing down the track as the tires grow at speed. They will rub front and back more than likely. I little masaging may be necessary.
<img src="http://www.turbo-ws6.com/norwalk3.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.turbo-ws6.com/norwalk4.jpg" alt=" - " />
These are 15x10 Welds with 28x15x15 Hoosier Drags.
<img src="http://www.turbo-ws6.com/norwalk3.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.turbo-ws6.com/norwalk4.jpg" alt=" - " />
These are 15x10 Welds with 28x15x15 Hoosier Drags.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,987
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, FL
Re: Clearance with 28" tires Mine always rubbed pretty bad before modifying the rear bumper. I cut a good size chunk out of it and reshaped it to look close to stock. Plenty of clearance now, but I should've made enough room for a 30" tire so I wouldn't ever have to worry about going back and doing it again...
The fit will depend on the tire. For example, a M/T ET Drag 28x9x15 is only a little over 27" tall.
The fit will depend on the tire. For example, a M/T ET Drag 28x9x15 is only a little over 27" tall.
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, CO
Re: Clearance with 28" tires I run the hoosier 28x10.5 QTP's on 15x10 rims. Clearacing work was done to both wheel wells, and my driver's side still needs a bit of work because I have an extra line around the tire now <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
Re: Clearance with 28" tires http://www.pbase.com/image/5269910
(rear shot launch #1)
http://www.pbase.com/image/5269912
(rear shot launch #2)
http://www.pbase.com/image/5269394
(side shot launch)
I had to cut the rear bumper a little bit, but if you had adjustable LCA's you could probably just pull the rearend forward a little bit.
I had to do a little bit of hammering to front inner fenderwell but barely any.
I also bent in the jounce spacer, and also the front metal at the bottom of the front... Just to deburr it basically.
IMO you need 1/2 inch all the way around. They say more but I have not needed more than that.
(rear shot launch #1)
http://www.pbase.com/image/5269912
(rear shot launch #2)
http://www.pbase.com/image/5269394
(side shot launch)
I had to cut the rear bumper a little bit, but if you had adjustable LCA's you could probably just pull the rearend forward a little bit.
I had to do a little bit of hammering to front inner fenderwell but barely any.
I also bent in the jounce spacer, and also the front metal at the bottom of the front... Just to deburr it basically.
IMO you need 1/2 inch all the way around. They say more but I have not needed more than that.
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Re: Clearance with 28" tires 28x10.5 drags here.
Adj, LCA's to pull the rear forward about 1/4 inch
and the front lower corner on the inner fender well
had to be caved in. There's some bumps in it that
needed to be pushed the other way and there's a
little bit of flat area above that spot that needs
some pushing in.
Roll in the lower edge part of the inner fender
close towards the LCA too.
Centering the rear is also more critical. I had more
rub on the passenger side then the driver side.
Roll your quarters too, a big tire will pick up
intereference on the lip of the quarter.
Expect tire profile to change on launch and at top
speeds. the launch squat will also put the tires
up into the fender.
I used a 2 ft speet pipe with a flat cap on one end
and a rounded cap on the other end. Then I used a
5 lb mini-sledge to tap the pipe while it was
held to the point that needed clearancing on the
inner fender.
Try to get a finger width(1/2 inch) of clearance
all around the tire. The fender coating is about
1/16th. That stuff will flake off with a hamer and
a flat head.
It took a couple of trial fits and checks to get it
done good. Don't forget that if you adjust your
LCA's length, it will also change your drive shaft
insertion so take that into account.
Jay Johnson
<small>[ November 24, 2002, 03:29 PM: Message edited by: Jay Johnson ]</small>
Adj, LCA's to pull the rear forward about 1/4 inch
and the front lower corner on the inner fender well
had to be caved in. There's some bumps in it that
needed to be pushed the other way and there's a
little bit of flat area above that spot that needs
some pushing in.
Roll in the lower edge part of the inner fender
close towards the LCA too.
Centering the rear is also more critical. I had more
rub on the passenger side then the driver side.
Roll your quarters too, a big tire will pick up
intereference on the lip of the quarter.
Expect tire profile to change on launch and at top
speeds. the launch squat will also put the tires
up into the fender.
I used a 2 ft speet pipe with a flat cap on one end
and a rounded cap on the other end. Then I used a
5 lb mini-sledge to tap the pipe while it was
held to the point that needed clearancing on the
inner fender.
Try to get a finger width(1/2 inch) of clearance
all around the tire. The fender coating is about
1/16th. That stuff will flake off with a hamer and
a flat head.
It took a couple of trial fits and checks to get it
done good. Don't forget that if you adjust your
LCA's length, it will also change your drive shaft
insertion so take that into account.
Jay Johnson
<small>[ November 24, 2002, 03:29 PM: Message edited by: Jay Johnson ]</small>
Re: Clearance with 28" tires 28x10.50x15 mickeys here just barely rubbed the back bumper cover I moved the retainer that holds the rear bmp back and drilled new hole worked very well now the only place they rub is around corners in the inside wheel well never did rub on front 1/4 panel ,but every car is different.
Re: Clearance with 28" tires I think that rolling the fender lips is unnecessary with my setup (no spacers, 15x10/7.5, stock length rearend) because I have plenty of room BUT if you are running like 15x8 Welds with 5.5 AND spacers YES the fender might come down and cut up the tire.
