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I realize this is a really old thread, but it seems the most applicable thread.
This image is from the front frame holes which I was using T-hooks to secure the front of the car with when I trailer it to events. I noticed its starting to warp (upper rounded area). Is that something to be concerned about, or is that typical?
I have never liked attaching to a body part since the suspension moves and "could" come unhooked.
I have been going through the wheels on the front and around the axle on the rear, crossing the rear straps.
I was in an accident where this yahoo crossed the double yellow lines, side swiped my truck, went up on trailer, causing all kinds of damage....car never came off even after 1 rear strap was cut in accident.
I've been doing a similar thing since noticing the stretch of the frame holes. Glad to hear such a setup handled an accident so well, but it sucks you had to go through that.
Thanks for sharing.
I've been doing a similar thing since noticing the stretch of the frame holes. Glad to hear such a setup handled an accident so well, but it sucks you had to go through that.
Figure speed limit was 45mph and almost head on.
Good thing was my buddy owned the body shop. So since the Insurance company was paying to strip the car, I had him use those hours to just replace the sheet metal.
Basically the whole car was replace (both fenders, both doors, both quarters, and some other stuff)
Buddy who was behind me said the car and trailer went air born (which explained the door dent on passenger side and paint 7-8 foot high on telephone pole)
For your viewing pleasure... https://s10.photobucket.com/user/Dou...ccident?page=1
I use tire wrap straps. They go completely around the front tires and winch down.
Couple regular straps over the rear tires the same way.
Attach to **** that's touching the trailer. Hold that down instead of attaching to a "floating" point and trying to secure that way.
Trust me, I stayed at a Holiday inn Express last night.
I'm a heavy haul flatbed truck driver. I secure 100k pounds of steel everyday.
Gross weights nearly 160k.
I use tire wrap straps. They go completely around the front tires and winch down.
Couple regular straps over the rear tires the same way.
Attach to **** that's touching the trailer. Hold that down instead of attaching to a "floating" point and trying to secure that way.
Trust me, I stayed at a Holiday inn Express last night.
I'm a heavy haul flatbed truck driver. I secure 100k pounds of steel everyday.
Gross weights nearly 160k.
I use tire wrap straps. They go completely around the front tires and winch down.
Couple regular straps over the rear tires the same way.
Attach to **** that's touching the trailer. Hold that down instead of attaching to a "floating" point and trying to secure that way.
Trust me, I stayed at a Holiday inn Express last night.
I'm a heavy haul flatbed truck driver. I secure 100k pounds of steel everyday.
Gross weights nearly 160k.
I would love to use those on the front of my steel deck flatbed trailer but most tire hold down straps require some type of track system don't they? I have 4 standard D rings on my trailer, I hook the front straps to my fbody frame with J hooks into the cars chassis and the rear gets two criss crossed axle straps, you don't think this is very secure?
For lack of a better term really.
Basically you want to attach your securement points to something that physically touches the trailer. In some instances that may not be feesible or possible, but always try to.
A floating point as I put it refers to anything that doesn't touch the trailer, i.e. control arm, axle, which are common attachment points. There is nothing necessarily wrong with securing to those points, but when you tie to something that's part of the trailer so to speak, it adds more contact points, which further stabilizes the load.
I don't have any pics of my trailer, but I essentially copied mine from the trailers that uhaul rents.
I would love to use those on the front of my steel deck flatbed trailer but most tire hold down straps require some type of track system don't they? I have 4 standard D rings on my trailer, I hook the front straps to my fbody frame with J hooks into the cars chassis and the rear gets two criss crossed axle straps, you don't think this is very secure?
D rings are nice, but as you know, unless your trailer has a lot of them, your securement options are limited. How you're doing it is ok. The main thing is making sure the suspension can articulate.
Also keep in mind WLL or working load limit. Their isn't enough weight to really worry about that hauling a single car, but DOT requires that the front to back motion (mainly front..think braking) covers 80% of the wll of the strap. A strap with a 10,000lb rating is actually significantly stronger. The rating is the WLL, which is a third of the actual tinsel strength of the strap.
ive always used 1 strap for every 10k, reguardless of the rating
Back to the point lol.
you can see on that pic, that their isn't a track system. their are two steel rods that are welded to the trailer. The straps are connected to that. strap goes over the wheel to the ratchet on the front of the trailer
Another Tid bit on d rings.
There ones on my trailer are only rated for 6000 pounds, where as the binders and chains are 10k. I had a 13k coil standing shotgun. Some stupid lady pulled out in front of me and I did everything I could to not Park in her back seat. I had three chains on this coil. 30k worth it securement. It broke 1 chain and ripped two d rings off the trailer as the coil fell over. Scary ****.
Nothing wrong with over securement
For lack of a better term really.
Basically you want to attach your securement points to something that physically touches the trailer. In some instances that may not be feesible or possible, but always try to.
A floating point as I put it refers to anything that doesn't touch the trailer, i.e. control arm, axle, which are common attachment points. There is nothing necessarily wrong with securing to those points, but when you tie to something that's part of the trailer so to speak, it adds more contact points, which further stabilizes the load.
I don't have any pics of my trailer, but I essentially copied mine from the trailers that uhaul rents.
2021: I'm still trailering this car ( just made a 1200 mile trip) and it still sucks to slide my fat *** under a lowered fbody in the rear to hook the rear axles straps, ecklers and others now sell these fbody rear tie down brackets that bolt to the car for under $30, ordered a set to see what they are about. YMMV https://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-...-153258-1.html
I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to say, you should never cross your straps. You are causing severe side loading on the tie down points, and if one comes loose the car will go wherever it wants. Also with them crossed you are putting twice the load on the straps from the scissoring effect the will happen in a collision. The correct way is to go straight back as short as possible, as far out as possible. You may have to add more tie down points to the trailer to get them in the right position. I used to clean up wrecks when I was younger and every time the straps were crossed the car was off the trailer or loose inside an enclosed. Either the tie downs were tore out or the straps broke. The wrecks I've seen where they tied them down short and straight, I've seen cars hanging upside down in an enclosed and they never moved. On open trailers the hitch usually kept the from flipping completely over and just on their side. With them short and straight the car didn't move and we would put an air bag under the car before pulling it back on the wheels to keep it from slamming when righted. There almost never was anything wrong with the car.
Look at the way you are pulling sideways on your mounting points in that picture. If one of those straps came loose or broke the other strap will pull the car into the fender. If you don't believe me loosen one up and go slam on the brakes. You''ll see, and that is nowhere near what a collision will do.
Just so everyone knows these are facts not opinions. Just may save your and other lives as well as your vehicle. Hopefully no one ever has to find out. But if you do, you can Thank Me Later.
I’ve always ran loops for the rear end closer to center under the brake lines and ratchet straps. Loops through the front wheels and attached to ratchet straps. Never had an issue.
07-12-2019, 02:35 PM
(both fenders, both doors, both quarters, and some other stuff)
