I'll call you Bri. 
Spohn Torque Arm worth the swap?`
Spohn Torque Arm worth the swap?` I have an adjustable tailshaft mounted BMR TA now and it's been working great. My buddy wants to sell me his Chromoly Frame mounted Spohn TA for only $275. I checked it out and it's HEAVY! He says it's worth it's weight in gold and that it has a loop too, which is true.
My question is:
Is the Spohn the way to go for 10s? Is the Spohn a better unit? Any and all comments are appreciated. Thanks. PS, how heavy is the BMR? It was on the car when I bought it. Spohn is 28 lbs. Thanks.
My question is:
Is the Spohn the way to go for 10s? Is the Spohn a better unit? Any and all comments are appreciated. Thanks. PS, how heavy is the BMR? It was on the car when I bought it. Spohn is 28 lbs. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Dear John
I have an adjustable tailshaft mounted BMR TA now and it's been working great. My buddy wants to sell me his Chromoly Frame mounted Spohn TA for only $275. I checked it out and it's HEAVY! He says it's worth it's weight in gold and that it has a loop too, which is true.
My question is:
Is the Spohn the way to go for 10s? Is the Spohn a better unit? Any and all comments are appreciated. Thanks. PS, how heavy is the BMR? It was on the car when I bought it. Spohn is 28 lbs. Thanks.
My question is:
Is the Spohn the way to go for 10s? Is the Spohn a better unit? Any and all comments are appreciated. Thanks. PS, how heavy is the BMR? It was on the car when I bought it. Spohn is 28 lbs. Thanks.
I do have a slight clearance issue with steep driveways. I have the torque arm for long tubes so it hangs low. I've hit it a few times pretty hard, so hard once I thought I ripped it out. It didn't even budge. I've heard lots of people say the body mounting points were a weak point, my experience is the exact opposite. It has held strong with no sign of any weak points.
The spohn body mount is REALLY noisey. It clunks and pops over bumps and pulling into driveways, but you'll get used to it. No matter what adjustment I try, or how much grease, or how tight or loose the front nuts/bolts are, its still clunks and pops. Then again, anyone who says their spohn torque are isn't noisey hasn't beat on it enough.
I have a spohn tq arm on my car and I like it. The body mounting points proved to be strong, and the SLP subframes also tie into that same mounting point, tying everything up real nice. After the subframes went on, the tq arm noise seems to be more pronounced, but that's probably due to more solid mounting. I'd say go for it, I'm sure that you won't be dissappointed.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo The crossbrace or driveshaft loop where the TA mounts to the body is supposed to use existing holes where the stock brace goes. Well, when I had my DD SFCs installed, they didn't quite line up with the holes and I just had them welded on. Now, having welded the SFCs, they cover the holes for the TA. So, I have to have the TA brace welded to my SFCs? You see? Would this be fine? What do you think?
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
That makes way more sense now. But, DON'T DO THAT. You will never get your transmission out of the car if you ever break it. With the mount welded in you'll never be able to slide the transmission back far enough to take it in and out. You should try to line up the brace and just drill holes through the existing SFC's. Then bolt and nut them together.
I'd much rather drill and tap new holes, but how will I know the TA is straight and true? I think I'm going to have it done so I don't mess anything up. Thanks for your help. 
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
It's all heim jointed, so if you're off a couple degrees you won't notice too much. Just try and clamp it up there so that it lines up. Even take the torque arm off the cross member so it's lighter! Then just do what you can to line it up and mark some holes. If you have the meat to tap the holes, great. If not you will likely have to bolt it in instead.
