Thinking about manual rack
Thinking about manual rack I would like to go to a manual rack, but I don't want to trash the spindles by drilling for a bolt. I saw an adapter that fit the taper in the spindle and had a straight section for the heim joint but can't find it now. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Baer brakes sells these baer tracker kits for adjusting bump steer. You might be able to use these with your manual rack kit or they may be willing to just sell the tapered stud adaptor or point you in the right direction.
www.speedwaymotors.com and search on this part number: 91636055-gm. As long as the taper is the same it should be what you're looking for.
Last edited by JeffT; Jan 7, 2005 at 12:25 PM.
Originally Posted by mongse
It's not that hard to drill out the spindle. Just use a low-speed drill, plenty of fluid and take your time. Hell, I did mine on the car. 
Originally Posted by JeffT
Baer brakes sells these baer tracker kits for adjusting bump steer. You might be able to use these with your manual rack kit or they may be willing to just sell the tapered stud adaptor or point you in the right direction.
www.speedwaymotors.com and search on this part number: 91636055-gm. As long as the taper is the same it should be what you're looking for.
www.speedwaymotors.com and search on this part number: 91636055-gm. As long as the taper is the same it should be what you're looking for.
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Originally Posted by critter
I understand that. What is hard it putting the power rack back on next winter after having drilled the spindles
The spindles on a 4th gen have a metric taper tierod end. Of all the kits you are looking at they are for standard taper. They will bolt in but they arent right. I used to offer a tierod from a c-4 vette but you had to buy a $150.00 tapered reamer to convert your spindles to fit.
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
The spindles on a 4th gen have a metric taper tierod end. Of all the kits you are looking at they are for standard taper. They will bolt in but they arent right. I used to offer a tierod from a c-4 vette but you had to buy a $150.00 tapered reamer to convert your spindles to fit.
BTW, it is obvious why the Aerospace brakes are less expensive than Strange. Had to do some cleanup with a tap and enlarge the mounting holes in two of the rotors. You can see one place where the jig came loose and the tool walked. But, they look to be quite serviceable and I didn't have to put $500 worth of time into them, so I am not bummed.
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Originally Posted by fastmaro
I was thinking about going to a manual rack, how much weight savings is there between a stock rack and the manual rack. (not including the power accessories)
As said, this is assuming you are comparing stock rack that has been "looped" and the stock linkage vs. the manual rack, it's heavy steel support bracket and hardware that is to be welded to the k-member, bump steer ends, and the linkage.
I had heard 5-10#'s and was very skeptical and confirmed this when I got my manual rack kit last month. However, it's a VERY nice piece and am pleased with it and will install it whenever it's not so damn cold.
Assuming you are already "looped", look at purchasing it for driveability, NOT for weight savings. There are far better ways to spend $700 (rack kit, shipping, and an alignment) if you still need a k-member, etc., etc. I am not knocking it, just saying it'd be later on my purchase list if I was just getting started. Take care. Dave
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From: Taking back some video tapes
Originally Posted by RUQWIKR
Assuming P/S pump, hoses, and bracket are gone and you've "looped" the stock rack...Only 4.25#'s! on a very precise scale.
As said, this is assuming you are comparing stock rack that has been "looped" and the stock linkage vs. the manual rack, it's heavy steel support bracket and hardware that is to be welded to the k-member, bump steer ends, and the linkage.
I had heard 5-10#'s and was very skeptical and confirmed this when I got my manual rack kit last month. However, it's a VERY nice piece and am pleased with it and will install it whenever it's not so damn cold.
Assuming you are already "looped", look at purchasing it for driveability, NOT for weight savings. There are far better ways to spend $700 (rack kit, shipping, and an alignment) if you still need a k-member, etc., etc. I am not knocking it, just saying it'd be later on my purchase list if I was just getting started. Take care. Dave
As said, this is assuming you are comparing stock rack that has been "looped" and the stock linkage vs. the manual rack, it's heavy steel support bracket and hardware that is to be welded to the k-member, bump steer ends, and the linkage.
I had heard 5-10#'s and was very skeptical and confirmed this when I got my manual rack kit last month. However, it's a VERY nice piece and am pleased with it and will install it whenever it's not so damn cold.
Assuming you are already "looped", look at purchasing it for driveability, NOT for weight savings. There are far better ways to spend $700 (rack kit, shipping, and an alignment) if you still need a k-member, etc., etc. I am not knocking it, just saying it'd be later on my purchase list if I was just getting started. Take care. Dave
Originally Posted by MADMAN
The spindles on a 4th gen have a metric taper tierod end. Of all the kits you are looking at they are for standard taper. They will bolt in but they arent right. I used to offer a tierod from a c-4 vette but you had to buy a $150.00 tapered reamer to convert your spindles to fit.
