Aerospace brake kits? anyone useing them?
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I've been looking at the brake kits they have on there site. While its kinda hard looking at the generic kits they make. I think they make bolt on kits for our F cars.
The question was is why don't I see more of these kits? There calipers wieght is around 1.5-2 lbs. I have a pre-98 car and mine are steel and weigh a ton.
How are the clearance on cars with drag lights? Front and rears.
there kit clams around 50lbs wieght loss. And not much less for the street kit. and for around $450 that's a good $ per lb loss.
thanks
The question was is why don't I see more of these kits? There calipers wieght is around 1.5-2 lbs. I have a pre-98 car and mine are steel and weigh a ton.
How are the clearance on cars with drag lights? Front and rears.
there kit clams around 50lbs wieght loss. And not much less for the street kit. and for around $450 that's a good $ per lb loss.
thanks
#3
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I have them. They work really well. They do require a little work to make them fit, but the instructions are very clear and it is very easy to do. Stopping power is really good, better than stock IMO. The weight savings were pretty incredible too, especially on all four wheels. Clearance should be fine for just about any 15"+ wheel. Overall, a good recommendation for a aftermarket drag brake replacement.
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Originally Posted by DERTY
I have them. They work really well. They do require a little work to make them fit, but the instructions are very clear and it is very easy to do. Stopping power is really good, better than stock IMO. The weight savings were pretty incredible too, especially on all four wheels. Clearance should be fine for just about any 15"+ wheel. Overall, a good recommendation for a aftermarket drag brake replacement.
What kind of mods did you have to do to make them fit?
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Originally Posted by Nine Ball
what are the pros/cons between the Aerospace, Strange, Willwood lightweight setups? Any of them a direct bolt-in?
Dave
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Ok, so here's the low down on the differences. Let's start with the rears.
The Aerospace kit has a brake backing plate that replaces the stock plate. It has to be pressed on just like the one from the factory. You will lose your e-brake at the same time. You also have to put a shim in the axle tube (included in the kit) to get the bearing to stick out of the axle tube about 1/8 of an inch so that it fits in the backing plate a bit. The Strange kit doesn't require you to press the backing plate on. It is U-shaped and slips on pretty easy. Overall, quality on the Strange kit is much nicer and the rotor is a solid one-piece rotor. The Aerospace rotor is a two piece. It's an aluminum hat with a steel disk (fronts too). Beyond that, they are very close to the same.
The front's is where most of the differences are. The Aerospace fronts has a new brake plate that needs to be bolted onto the back side of the knuckle. You unbolt the factory hub and fit the plate on top of the hub and bolt it back in. You then have to notch the lower most bolt hole on the factory knuckle so that the Aerospace caliper can fit. I just used a disk grinder and you make a divit. Some people just cut the ear right off. But if you want to put your factory brakes back on either leave part of the hole or buy a new pair of knuckles from a auto parts place.
The Strange brakes uses a entirely different hub assembly. You basically unbolt and remove the factory hub assembly from the knuckle. Then you bolt in their new spindle assembly. It comes complete with roller bearings and some nice components. After that, everything bolts right up. I think that their spindle possible brings the wheel in another 3/8 to 1/2 inch.
That's pretty much it. Overall quality is much nicer on the Strange kit but the Aerospace kit is a very good kit for it's money. Wilwood does not make a brake that will fit the fronts, according to them. But they do make them to fit spindle replacements and such. I think you could make your own brackets to mount a Wilwood or a MW, but I don't know very many people that try.
Good enough?
The Aerospace kit has a brake backing plate that replaces the stock plate. It has to be pressed on just like the one from the factory. You will lose your e-brake at the same time. You also have to put a shim in the axle tube (included in the kit) to get the bearing to stick out of the axle tube about 1/8 of an inch so that it fits in the backing plate a bit. The Strange kit doesn't require you to press the backing plate on. It is U-shaped and slips on pretty easy. Overall, quality on the Strange kit is much nicer and the rotor is a solid one-piece rotor. The Aerospace rotor is a two piece. It's an aluminum hat with a steel disk (fronts too). Beyond that, they are very close to the same.
The front's is where most of the differences are. The Aerospace fronts has a new brake plate that needs to be bolted onto the back side of the knuckle. You unbolt the factory hub and fit the plate on top of the hub and bolt it back in. You then have to notch the lower most bolt hole on the factory knuckle so that the Aerospace caliper can fit. I just used a disk grinder and you make a divit. Some people just cut the ear right off. But if you want to put your factory brakes back on either leave part of the hole or buy a new pair of knuckles from a auto parts place.
The Strange brakes uses a entirely different hub assembly. You basically unbolt and remove the factory hub assembly from the knuckle. Then you bolt in their new spindle assembly. It comes complete with roller bearings and some nice components. After that, everything bolts right up. I think that their spindle possible brings the wheel in another 3/8 to 1/2 inch.
That's pretty much it. Overall quality is much nicer on the Strange kit but the Aerospace kit is a very good kit for it's money. Wilwood does not make a brake that will fit the fronts, according to them. But they do make them to fit spindle replacements and such. I think you could make your own brackets to mount a Wilwood or a MW, but I don't know very many people that try.
Good enough?
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Originally Posted by DERTY
After that, everything bolts right up. I think that their spindle possible brings the wheel in another 3/8 to 1/2 inch.
Rick
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wow, thanks for the info Derty, and everyone else.
I am asking because I didn't realize how much wieght can be saved from these brakes. I began thinking about it, when I picked up my 93 steel calaper. Thing wieghs quiet a bit.
But I will be getting a 12 bolt rear, and will probably going with an aftermarket rear setup like the ones above.
pics would be great. Oh, and what piston calipers are you guys running in the front, and the rear?
thanks
I am asking because I didn't realize how much wieght can be saved from these brakes. I began thinking about it, when I picked up my 93 steel calaper. Thing wieghs quiet a bit.
But I will be getting a 12 bolt rear, and will probably going with an aftermarket rear setup like the ones above.
pics would be great. Oh, and what piston calipers are you guys running in the front, and the rear?
thanks
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I have read this and I am curious now.
I am planning to put these brakes on my car. The tech guy I spoke to there was pretty good.
The cost for my car is $899 for the front and $899 for the rear. I was told that I need to buy and additional cable for the e-brake and that is $140. This price is giving me 12" rotors all the way around and 4 pistion billet aluminium calipers also.
I have not seen many people saying they have these units. I am hoping someone can give pointers for the installation.....
I can read the instructions, but we all know there is always that one little thing that pisses us off. We just never know what it is...
I am planning to put these brakes on my car. The tech guy I spoke to there was pretty good.
The cost for my car is $899 for the front and $899 for the rear. I was told that I need to buy and additional cable for the e-brake and that is $140. This price is giving me 12" rotors all the way around and 4 pistion billet aluminium calipers also.
I have not seen many people saying they have these units. I am hoping someone can give pointers for the installation.....
I can read the instructions, but we all know there is always that one little thing that pisses us off. We just never know what it is...
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Originally Posted by need-a-z
I have read this and I am curious now.
I am planning to put these brakes on my car. The tech guy I spoke to there was pretty good.
The cost for my car is $899 for the front and $899 for the rear. I was told that I need to buy and additional cable for the e-brake and that is $140. This price is giving me 12" rotors all the way around and 4 pistion billet aluminium calipers also.
I have not seen many people saying they have these units. I am hoping someone can give pointers for the installation.....
I can read the instructions, but we all know there is always that one little thing that pisses us off. We just never know what it is...![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I am planning to put these brakes on my car. The tech guy I spoke to there was pretty good.
The cost for my car is $899 for the front and $899 for the rear. I was told that I need to buy and additional cable for the e-brake and that is $140. This price is giving me 12" rotors all the way around and 4 pistion billet aluminium calipers also.
I have not seen many people saying they have these units. I am hoping someone can give pointers for the installation.....
I can read the instructions, but we all know there is always that one little thing that pisses us off. We just never know what it is...
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#17
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It was quite a bit, I want to say almost 75 pounds or more. In total I was able to shave 300 pounds out of my car and that one mod was the single largest reduction.
As far as street versus race brakes, the Aerospace brakes install the same. The difference is only in the rotor thickness and a caliper. Everything else should be the same.
As far as street versus race brakes, the Aerospace brakes install the same. The difference is only in the rotor thickness and a caliper. Everything else should be the same.
#18
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These look like a pretty nice setup. I need to do the brakes on my car.. factory rotors are warped to the point I can't tolerate them anymore.... butmy car is a more street then race car. Will these (street or race version) still work with the abs, or does that have to go byebye?
#19
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The street version should still work with ABS. They don't interfere with the sensors. I'd be hesitant on the race versions as the rotors aren't necessarily built for that. Just my opinion.
#20
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I'd actually prefer to go to the race version if the ABS will still work ( sved my *** in a couple caught in the rain situations ) I drive the car pretty easy when on the street... car's kinda loud and going real easy is the only way not to draw alot of attenion.. and I never use it as a daily driver either, never sees heavy traffic, just go to a couple local cruise nights and a hangout spot every now and then.
Anyone know what the actual weight savings were over factory brakes? Christ knows my car is a pig.. and I gotta start doing something about it if it's ever to run much better then it is now.
Anyone know what the actual weight savings were over factory brakes? Christ knows my car is a pig.. and I gotta start doing something about it if it's ever to run much better then it is now.