hourang

iTrader: (6)

Pretty soon here i will be getting a 9" rear, tires and a 150shot. this will be my mods:

224 cam
ls6 intake
pacesetter long tubes
offroad y
cutout
spec 3 clutch
9" moser with 4.11s
some sticky tires
tnt f1 150shot

what is everyone running with similar mods and what you think i will run?

hourang

iTrader: (6)

no one runs a 150shot? i want to see any kinda times on a shot of nitrous, before and after would be cool.

PREDATOR-Z

You will be in the low> mid 11's. You do not have the suporting suspension.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

i have lca's and subframes right now, getting a st bar, adj torque arm, maybe a panhard bar, remving the front sway, dont know what else i will need maybe some coil overs.

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

9.64@138 on a 150 shot, stock motor with a cam, lightened.

GM Muscle

iTrader: (9)

Ran a 10.98 with a TNT 150 shot. Just bolts ons, converter, skinnies, shocks, hurt tranny, and a good 'ol 2.73 10 bolt. Car ran a consistant 11.2 in street trim.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

10.49 @ 129 on a tnt 100 shot, with 228 cam, headers with just extensions, ls6 intake, and lid/filter.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

10.9@119 running out of gear BAD. this is on a stock headed nearly full weight TA spinning. 120 shot NX

hourang

iTrader: (6)

so 10s are doable huh? what all do i need to get/do to run that? if you need the full list of mods look at my cardomain page. thanks guys.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

also i see most of you guys are autos, what about m6s? anyone running 10s?

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

10s are not as easy as some of us make it out to be. esp in a 6 speed car. you need et drags, properly setup suspension, great clutch, and brass *****. too many guys dont concentrated on the 60' times.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Yeah man, it's all in the 60'!! Weight also plays a role. My raceweight with my heavy *** in the car was 3470, if the car wasn't in the low 3200 lb range, i'd be screwed! I was having issues hooking and finally got the last couple of pieces of suspension I need for her, but never got a chance to put 'em on before puttin her down for the new motor. So when she comes back out, i'm hoping my hookin issues will be solved a bit and maybe i'll cut some 1.3x 60's! She should also now be in the low to mid 3100's range on weight, i'm hoping! I think if you can cut anywhere from 1.5's or better with a 6-speed ur doin a killer job and would probably go 10's!!

hourang

iTrader: (6)

yeah thanks guys that sounds more resonable. it sucks cuz i weigh in at 260lbs, 6'2", and my car weighs like 3500. so whats the best way to get her down to like 3200 and still be a street car? what suspension do i need?

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Ouch, that's about what I am, 260 - 270, 6'1"!!! Couldn't imagine if my car weighed 3500, i'd be screwed!!!! I have a stripper to begin with, so stock with just the back part of the back seat and spare/jack out, she weighed in at 3250 w/o me!!! Then I started modding, added 12-bolt, added th400, added 3" heavy duty steel driveshaft, added chromemoly cage, and i'm sure I added other weight too that I can't think of right now, and then took out the back seat cushions, carpet, console, and panels and also changed from stock tires to slicks and skinnies on weld draglites 15x10 out back and 15x3.5 up front and ended up right about the same weight!!!! I think she's like 3220 the last time I weighed her with the cage and all in there! She was about 3150 - 3170 before the cage! But she should be back in the 3100's when she comes back out, cuz I took all the a/c stuff in the engine bay out, the radio and all the speakers, and the heater control panel thing. I can't wait till I upgrade to a 10-point cage, cuz when I do, i'll be gutting everything behind the dash that I don't need, will probably drop some weight there, but of course i'll gain weight from the extra chromemoly tubing on the cage, so it'll probably end up just cancelling each other out.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

As for suspension, if I had the money, I would've bought a set of afco's, but best bang for the buck is the hals. So i'd say a set of hals, subframe connectors, set of lca's, lca relocate brackets, adjustable t/a, and a rear swaybar would be the most important suspension mods to get.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

sweet thanks man that helps a lot. i have normal lca's, i think i need to get some adjustable ones to run some 10" wheels and tires? i have subframes already and i plan on getting an adjustable torque arm, is the spohn one good? or should i get a bmr? dont they just make drag shocks and springs for our cars instead of the multi adjustable coil overs? so even though my car is not lowered i still need lca relocate brackets? thanks much for the help

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I have lakewood non adjustable lca's as of now, i'll probably upgrade to adjustables down the line, but my point is, i'm running a 15x10 draglite with a M/T ET Drag 28x10.5x15, so you don't need them to fit the tire! As for the torque arm, eventually down the line, i'll probably change it, but as of right now i'm running a full length bmr that is mounted to my tranny crossmember that I got with the turbo 400, but when I do change it (if I find a need too), then the one i'd be goin too would be madman setup, expensive, but it gets the job done! For the shocks and springs, use stock rear springs, and best bang for the buck is to see if you can find someone selling a set of used hals, front and rear on here, if not, they're about I think $140 a piece for the rears and $170 - $190 a piece for the front's depending on F or R series, and then there's the double adjustables which are over $300 a piece for fronts and rears. And as for the lca relocate brackets, i've been told they'll help keep the tires planted. I was having a problem with the car twisting real bad (rear swaybar is gonna fix that) off the line, and was also having a problem with it hookin initially, but then unloading and blowing the tires off, and was told that a set of relocate brackets will solve that, so I bought them when I bought my bmr extreme duty rear swaybar. Hopefully with those two final pieces in place I can get it all dialed in and she'll hook good, but if not, i'll slowly start changing components of my suspension, and the first thing would probably be to change to a madman t/a, cuz i've heard that thing kicks ***!!!

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

i run 10's with a m6. g5x2 cam,speed inc st2 heads,kooks w/off roads,most all boltons(stock th-body and mass air)12bolt w/4.11's,lca's,fraim welded,pan hard rod,q-a1's,26x11.5x16 m&h racemaster cheeter slicks(www.intercotire.com) and t.n.t 75shot 1,100psi bottle.10.96 126. this year i have the x3 cam w/afr 205 heads and a 150 shot,no new times yet.

Gimp98TNT

iTrader: (21)

I ran 10's with a M6 and a 150 shot. At the time a had Futral's FM-8 cam, Stock heads, all bolt-ons, though a full exhust W/a cutout in the I-pipe. I had Hal shocks, BMR LCA's and torque arm, 28-12.5-15 ET Streets.

thr run was 10.71 @ 128 with a 1.52 60ft. Raceweight was around 3625

hourang

iTrader: (6)

awesome guys your really giving me some hope to hit 10s, though i know my car(and probably me:/) will need to go on a small diet to get there plus im sure ill need tons of luck too, my cars always seem to run slow times though i probably just suck

so there are no drag shocks to buy besides hals? or is it just that hals are the best for drag racing? i dont care too much about having adjustable shocks, if i can just get some shocks already setup for drag racing that would be nice. my friend got some tokiko shocks, are those good enough? i know i need shocks bad, my rears seem dead with 75k miles on them :/