Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!
Anyhow, on to the pics, homemade box and it's sealed and will be vented, so it should pass tech, and she's sturdy as a ************ too!
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It's actually pretty sturdy, I was surprised!!! $2.50 battery box, woot!!!
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As for the switch, I personally don't like the push/pull kind, cuz the pull has to be on and I still drive the car on the street and don't want to be driving around with that big *** t-handle sticking way out in the back!
Why would I need grommets for the wires going through the sheetmetal, just curious, if ur worried about it cutting the wires, I took my die grinder to the hole and made it nice and smooth.
And I actually just picked up some 6 ga wire from napa, so I guess i'll just use that.

I used 4 gauge from my alternator to the battery. You can ALWAYS overkill fuel, cooling or charging system, instead of "not enough." But 6 gauge should do just fine.
Derek
Why would I need grommets for the wires going through the sheetmetal, just curious, if ur worried about it cutting the wires, I took my die grinder to the hole and made it nice and smooth.
And I actually just picked up some 6 ga wire from napa, so I guess i'll just use that.
Battery cable should be 2 gauge or bigger... just an FYI
Battery cable should be 2 gauge or bigger... just an FYI
Check the following link out.
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
American Wire Gauge sets the standards for cable/wire.
6 gauge has a maximum amp rating of just over 100. I believe the alternator puts out 124+. 2 gauge is good for 180.
I used 2 ga on my setup and I have been running the car for close to a year now with it. No problems what so ever.
Battery cable should be 2 gauge or bigger... just an FYI
I used 4 gauge from my alternator to the battery. You can ALWAYS overkill fuel, cooling or charging system, instead of "not enough." But 6 gauge should do just fine.
Derek
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