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Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!

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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 12:40 AM
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Default Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!

Got her finished, let me know what you think. Only thing left to do is vent the box (gotta pick up some tubing to use to vent it) and jack the car up and run a wire from the alternator to the switch (was too lazy today to get under the car) so it kills the car when shut off. One question though, in the instructions that came with my taylor 4-pole switch, it says to use 10 ga wire to go from the alternator to the switch, is that big enough, that's a pretty small wire! What gauge wire would you guys recommend (I was thinkin 6 ga)?

Anyhow, on to the pics, homemade box and it's sealed and will be vented, so it should pass tech, and she's sturdy as a ************ too!
Attached Thumbnails Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!-v18sep2005-001.jpg   Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!-v18sep2005-002.jpg   Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!-v18sep2005-003.jpg   Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!-v18sep2005-006.jpg   Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!-v18sep2005-011.jpg  

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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 12:42 AM
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One more of the box and switch:

Used a piece of flat stock as the hold down, it ain't goin nowhere!
Attached Thumbnails Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!-v18sep2005-016.jpg   Finished Batt Relo and Kill Switch, pics inside!-v17sep2005-002.jpg  
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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is that a tupperware container!?! LOL
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Carbed4thGen
is that a tupperware container!?! LOL
looks more like rubbermaid brand.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 10:46 AM
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What is that rats nest under the hood for?
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:27 AM
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two things. Is that an Optima? If so you don't need the sealed box. Also, I thought the switch requirement was a Push/Pull kind with Push=Off.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:39 AM
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you don't 'technically' need a sealed box for an Optima, but the NHRA rules don't distinguish a difference so tech's will still look for a box. the Rubbermaid box is a bit ghetto, but hell it's creative and it's hidden anyway. the switch is fine, push/pull or twist type are both ok. hope you are going to get some grommets for the wires going thru the sheet metal though. oh, and i'd use 8ga wire from the alt. to the batt.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffT
looks more like rubbermaid brand.
Ding ding ding, we have a winner!!!! It's actually pretty sturdy, I was surprised!!! $2.50 battery box, woot!!!
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fastWS6
you don't 'technically' need a sealed box for an Optima, but the NHRA rules don't distinguish a difference so tech's will still look for a box. the Rubbermaid box is a bit ghetto, but hell it's creative and it's hidden anyway. the switch is fine, push/pull or twist type are both ok. hope you are going to get some grommets for the wires going thru the sheet metal though. oh, and i'd use 8ga wire from the alt. to the batt.
Yeah, I didn't want them giving me **** about not having a box even though it's an optima, so I decided to make my own box, cuz all the boxes are stupid expensive and I couldn't really find one that would fit.

As for the switch, I personally don't like the push/pull kind, cuz the pull has to be on and I still drive the car on the street and don't want to be driving around with that big *** t-handle sticking way out in the back!

Why would I need grommets for the wires going through the sheetmetal, just curious, if ur worried about it cutting the wires, I took my die grinder to the hole and made it nice and smooth.

And I actually just picked up some 6 ga wire from napa, so I guess i'll just use that.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by csjta2
What is that rats nest under the hood for?
Yeah, i'm not the greatest with wiring, but at least my **** works! I have a lot of buddies, that everything is all nice and neat and hidden and pretty looking, but their **** never works! I don't have the patience to wire stuff pretty, i'm just happy that it all works!!!!
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 08:12 PM
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Looks good Man!

I used 4 gauge from my alternator to the battery. You can ALWAYS overkill fuel, cooling or charging system, instead of "not enough." But 6 gauge should do just fine.

Derek
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1

Why would I need grommets for the wires going through the sheetmetal, just curious, if ur worried about it cutting the wires, I took my die grinder to the hole and made it nice and smooth.

And I actually just picked up some 6 ga wire from napa, so I guess i'll just use that.
Cause as that wire bounces around it will cut through the insulation on the wire over time and ground out and maybe cause a fire and burn your car to the ground. Grommets are under 1.00 they are well worth the money

Battery cable should be 2 gauge or bigger... just an FYI
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Outlaw
Cause as that wire bounces around it will cut through the insulation on the wire over time and ground out and maybe cause a fire and burn your car to the ground. Grommets are under 1.00 they are well worth the money

Battery cable should be 2 gauge or bigger... just an FYI
I agree, 6 ga just isn't enough.

Check the following link out.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

American Wire Gauge sets the standards for cable/wire.

6 gauge has a maximum amp rating of just over 100. I believe the alternator puts out 124+. 2 gauge is good for 180.

I used 2 ga on my setup and I have been running the car for close to a year now with it. No problems what so ever.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Outlaw
Cause as that wire bounces around it will cut through the insulation on the wire over time and ground out and maybe cause a fire and burn your car to the ground. Grommets are under 1.00 they are well worth the money

Battery cable should be 2 gauge or bigger... just an FYI
Ok, i'll try and find a grommet that's as big as the hole I made with the holesaw. Also, everything is 2 gauge, just the alternator to the kill switch is gonna be 6 gauge, the instructions said 2 ga for everything else and 10 ga for the alternator which I just thought was way too small, so I bought some 6 ga and figured that'd be enough.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
Looks good Man!

I used 4 gauge from my alternator to the battery. You can ALWAYS overkill fuel, cooling or charging system, instead of "not enough." But 6 gauge should do just fine.

Derek
Thanks dude!
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 06:59 PM
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That **** looks gay!!!!
But the kill switch is fun
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 07:14 PM
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Grommets are a must, cheep too or at least put rubber on the edge of the hole. not sure but you could look in the tupperware catolog for somthing that will work. LOL just kidding. as you said, least the s*** works and dosn't cost as much. good job.
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MechMan
That **** looks gay!!!!
But the kill switch is fun
*******!!!! I'm gonna have to start takin the handle off around you!!!!
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 72ChevelleConv.LS1
Grommets are a must, cheep too or at least put rubber on the edge of the hole. not sure but you could look in the tupperware catolog for somthing that will work. LOL just kidding. as you said, least the s*** works and dosn't cost as much. good job.
Thanks, I actually looked today and they didn't have any big enough for the hole I made, so i'm just gonna grab some rubber hose, slit it, put it over the wires goin through and then tape it up to hold.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 10:08 AM
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Moroso offers this grommet kit which shouldn't be more than $10-$15.

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?CatCode=23032
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