Guys with grant steering wheels inside....
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TECH Junkie
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From: Deerfield Beach, FL
Guys with grant steering wheels inside.... Ok, so I pulled the stock wheel off the other day and then had too go too work and i'm sittin at home bored right now so i'm ready too put the grant on, but have a few questions:
1. Where do I cut the two wires comin through the column that went too the airbag? Is there somewhere under the steering column that I can cut them and then pull them through the top, or just cut 'em flush up top?
2. There's like a piece of plastic that's sticking off the column that the two wires are coming out through that is in the way of the adapter kit, do I just cut that flush too the column?
3. How does the horn hook up? I see a white plastic hole that the stock horn buttons had wires goin too a spring kind of thing that stuck in there, figure i'll hook the horn up for now till I get the quick disconnect hub, and then obviously I can't, but don't see how the horn hooks up.
4. I keep hearing about the yellow plastic needing too be trimmed for the base too fit, but it doesn't look like it's sticking up, does everyone mean it needs too be trimmed so the bevelled part of the base can seat inside the column, and if so, what can I use too trim it?
Anything else I need too know? Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it!
1. Where do I cut the two wires comin through the column that went too the airbag? Is there somewhere under the steering column that I can cut them and then pull them through the top, or just cut 'em flush up top?
2. There's like a piece of plastic that's sticking off the column that the two wires are coming out through that is in the way of the adapter kit, do I just cut that flush too the column?
3. How does the horn hook up? I see a white plastic hole that the stock horn buttons had wires goin too a spring kind of thing that stuck in there, figure i'll hook the horn up for now till I get the quick disconnect hub, and then obviously I can't, but don't see how the horn hooks up.
4. I keep hearing about the yellow plastic needing too be trimmed for the base too fit, but it doesn't look like it's sticking up, does everyone mean it needs too be trimmed so the bevelled part of the base can seat inside the column, and if so, what can I use too trim it?
Anything else I need too know? Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it!
1. Cut the airbag plug up top then go under the collum and yank the wires out. They shoul dbe in a yellow sleeve.
2. If your talking about the plastic thing that the horn wires exit, I had to cut my plastic peice down flush.
3. Fucked mine up, the horn was on all the time. So I got pissed and ripped the horn out. It weighed like 2lbs!
4. Do a mock up with the hub. Get it on and seated and see if you need to do any grinding on the plastic. If you have a dremel, it will work perfect. If your like me and burnt up your dremel cutting out door bars, then a drill with a little dremel drum sander bit is the next best thing.
2. If your talking about the plastic thing that the horn wires exit, I had to cut my plastic peice down flush.
3. Fucked mine up, the horn was on all the time. So I got pissed and ripped the horn out. It weighed like 2lbs!
4. Do a mock up with the hub. Get it on and seated and see if you need to do any grinding on the plastic. If you have a dremel, it will work perfect. If your like me and burnt up your dremel cutting out door bars, then a drill with a little dremel drum sander bit is the next best thing.
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From: Deerfield Beach, FL
Originally Posted by GM Muscle
1. Cut the airbag plug up top then go under the collum and yank the wires out. They shoul dbe in a yellow sleeve.
2. If your talking about the plastic thing that the horn wires exit, I had to cut my plastic peice down flush.
3. Fucked mine up, the horn was on all the time. So I got pissed and ripped the horn out. It weighed like 2lbs!
4. Do a mock up with the hub. Get it on and seated and see if you need to do any grinding on the plastic. If you have a dremel, it will work perfect. If your like me and burnt up your dremel cutting out door bars, then a drill with a little dremel drum sander bit is the next best thing.
2. If your talking about the plastic thing that the horn wires exit, I had to cut my plastic peice down flush.
3. Fucked mine up, the horn was on all the time. So I got pissed and ripped the horn out. It weighed like 2lbs!
4. Do a mock up with the hub. Get it on and seated and see if you need to do any grinding on the plastic. If you have a dremel, it will work perfect. If your like me and burnt up your dremel cutting out door bars, then a drill with a little dremel drum sander bit is the next best thing.
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From: Deerfield Beach, FL
Originally Posted by GM Muscle
4. Do a mock up with the hub. Get it on and seated and see if you need to do any grinding on the plastic. If you have a dremel, it will work perfect. If your like me and burnt up your dremel cutting out door bars, then a drill with a little dremel drum sander bit is the next best thing.
Devon
I dont have a Fbody but I would guess the reason you arent seeing the horn wires is because of the clock spring. It is basically a disk with connections inside of it that lets you turn the wheel without twisting any wires up. If you eliminate the clock spring with need to leave slack for the horn wires or figure something else out.
I dont have a Fbody but I would guess the reason you arent seeing the horn wires is because of the clock spring. It is basically a disk with connections inside of it that lets you turn the wheel without twisting any wires up. If you eliminate the clock spring with need to leave slack for the horn wires or figure something else out.
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From: Deerfield Beach, FL
Originally Posted by 93LS1RX7
Devon
I dont have a Fbody but I would guess the reason you arent seeing the horn wires is because of the clock spring. It is basically a disk with connections inside of it that lets you turn the wheel without twisting any wires up. If you eliminate the clock spring with need to leave slack for the horn wires or figure something else out.
I dont have a Fbody but I would guess the reason you arent seeing the horn wires is because of the clock spring. It is basically a disk with connections inside of it that lets you turn the wheel without twisting any wires up. If you eliminate the clock spring with need to leave slack for the horn wires or figure something else out.
Devon, your suposed to reuse the spring set up for the horn. I wish I knew how it worked. I'm not sure if the button grounds the relay or what. Never really got a chance to play with it.
When you look at the collum with the wheel off, you are looking at the clock spring. It's inside that black donut and their should be a gm warning label on it. If you eliminate the clock spring you will have to shut your blinker off by hand everytime you go around a corner.
A die grinder should work well.
When you look at the collum with the wheel off, you are looking at the clock spring. It's inside that black donut and their should be a gm warning label on it. If you eliminate the clock spring you will have to shut your blinker off by hand everytime you go around a corner.
A die grinder should work well.
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The clock spring is very simple. It is 2 round contacts inside a plastic container. Instead of wires the contacts ride around on a solid disk to create the connection.
I attached a pic of a clock spring from an RX7. I imagine they all look the same.
I attached a pic of a clock spring from an RX7. I imagine they all look the same.
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The horn button grounds the relay.
keep those wires and use the buttons on the wheel for a line lock or purge. You shouldn't have to run any other wires up through the column that way. I cut my black horn wire down low on the column and wired it to my line lock.
keep those wires and use the buttons on the wheel for a line lock or purge. You shouldn't have to run any other wires up through the column that way. I cut my black horn wire down low on the column and wired it to my line lock.
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From: Deerfield Beach, FL
Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Devon, your suposed to reuse the spring set up for the horn. I wish I knew how it worked. I'm not sure if the button grounds the relay or what. Never really got a chance to play with it.
When you look at the collum with the wheel off, you are looking at the clock spring. It's inside that black donut and their should be a gm warning label on it. If you eliminate the clock spring you will have to shut your blinker off by hand everytime you go around a corner.
A die grinder should work well.
When you look at the collum with the wheel off, you are looking at the clock spring. It's inside that black donut and their should be a gm warning label on it. If you eliminate the clock spring you will have to shut your blinker off by hand everytime you go around a corner.
A die grinder should work well.
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From: Deerfield Beach, FL
Originally Posted by 93LS1RX7
The clock spring is very simple. It is 2 round contacts inside a plastic container. Instead of wires the contacts ride around on a solid disk to create the connection.
I attached a pic of a clock spring from an RX7. I imagine they all look the same.
I attached a pic of a clock spring from an RX7. I imagine they all look the same.
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From: On the Bumper!
There are differnet types of horn systems. Connect your single wire to the small connector and you will have to run a ground to the other large connector for it to work properly. If it's stuck on then you didn't cut the metal clip that sticks out the side as the directions describe. If anything is grounded out,the horn will stay on.
I just finished mine and the black wire discussed above is for the steering wheel radio controls. I cut both of them from the plastic airbag spacer and pulled them through the bottom.
I hope this helps. good luck!
I just finished mine and the black wire discussed above is for the steering wheel radio controls. I cut both of them from the plastic airbag spacer and pulled them through the bottom.
I hope this helps. good luck!
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From: Deerfield Beach, FL
Originally Posted by CAT3
Devon, I hope your taking pics and documenting this **** since no one else has! Come on, its not to late.
the horn doesnt go through the clock spring, these cars use the old disc/wiper GM has been using for 30 years. The black plastic little thing that twists into the hole with the spring over the wire is for the horn. You have to cut that off the old steering wheel and use it. The grant horn button is grounded through the metal disc/wire retainer that holds it in the wheel, if you hook the wire to the horn button that has the ground symbol on it it will blow all the time.
All moot if you are doing a quick disconnect wheel, my horn works fine with a grant wheel
All moot if you are doing a quick disconnect wheel, my horn works fine with a grant wheel
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From: On the Bumper!
Yeah the instructions are not real clear on the horn part. I also had to shim up the thin metal domed part from the adapter kit to keep it from scraping when the wheel was turned. All in all it was easy and looks good as well as being lighter. I should have snapped pics and done a write up, but I was limited on time.
Here are a few pics of it installed.
Here are a few pics of it installed.
