What should I expect with 600 rwhp?
#1
What should I expect with 600 rwhp?
My car has been 11.58 at 3700 lbs and 11.45 at roughly 3600 lbs at 116.xx in sorta bad air. 60' times are usually in the 1.5x range and the car hooks great now. Its a H/C stock bottom end with a build 4L60E and 4200 stall, and all the bolt ons. I would estimate from the times its run its making maybe 430 rwhp (MTI stage 2 heads, 228/236 cam, 598/602 lift) according to a few different hp calculators (never been on a dyno). I am looking into changing alot of stuff and while the raceweight will still be 3700 I should have around 600 rwhp. I have a 12 bolt with 3.73 gears as well. 28" tire. I know its heavy, but I am 300 lbs myself and aside from losing the A/C and heat I am running out of weight reduction mods.
So with 600 rwhp what would be a realistic ET/ MPH? It will be a procharged stock displacement setup, if that matters. I see no reason 60' times wouldn't be in the 1.4's.
Thanks!
So with 600 rwhp what would be a realistic ET/ MPH? It will be a procharged stock displacement setup, if that matters. I see no reason 60' times wouldn't be in the 1.4's.
Thanks!
#5
Yeah, but I'm not sure how relevent it is since we still have no idea how much power it was making on the bottle, it had 125 pills in it but with no W/B or tune it may have been rich or whatever. Man, if it was lighter it would fly! But I don't want to lose my A/C and stuff......
#7
Well, now it looks like I might be going with the iron block so I'm gonna be closer to 3800 lbs. Damn, this thing is heavy. But my fat *** isn't helping either. I honestly don't see how guys get down to 3000 lbs, I mean I could swap seats, remove A/C and heater, remove airbags, and maybe find 20 lbs. worth of misc. **** to remove (fog lights, etc.) and I'm still gonna be 3300 lbs plus a driver.
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#9
I ran 10.8@123 with just under 450 rwhp at just over 3500lbs. I agree that at 3800 lbs you'll be in the low 10's. Put that pig on a diet and you'll be in the 9's. If you're going with the iron block you'll be able to run a bigger shot with a DP set up so you'll be over the 600 rwhp anyway.
#12
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my set up last year made 428 rwhp on nitrous and went 10.5x at 126 with a 1.42 60 ft, at about 3250 or so .................
in reality 600rwhp should get you well into the 9's...... but most people dont maximize the power buy having the right converter, gear etc....
in reality 600rwhp should get you well into the 9's...... but most people dont maximize the power buy having the right converter, gear etc....
#14
I thought 133 is enough for a high 9? I just hope the car still hooks like it did before. I really need to lighten it up. I could do a tubular K member, but I just don't like the idea for a street car. I guess removing my nitrous system will shed about 30 lbs., and I can yank the foglights. I'm almost wishing I hadn't put the 6 pt. bar in last year, but at those speeds its a good idea I guess. I'll just find some 100 lb little dude to drive it once for a good timeslip to carry!
#16
Race your car!
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If you are plannign on makign 650 to the tires, better start planning on scrapping that 4l60, it will probably work for the tuning, but be smoked after the first pull on the street, I don't care who built it. 650 rwhp, is th400 time. Get used to the thought and start planning for it. With that, then mid to low 10's should be no problem.
#17
Yeah, it might happen. But like Dan said, they have made more on their 4L60E's. I know FLT makes awesome trannys, but my guy really is good. I think both companies use the best parts available and if it breaks, I'll have my guy fix it and convert me to a 400 and sell my 4L60E for most of the cost. I just hate losing overdrive. Oh well, 3.73 gears and 28" tires should still let me cruise 65 anyway.