Harlan 2 step setup
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Harlan 2 step setup Any of you that have it still have the instructions or remember how to hook it all up?? Picked up a new one that somebody had laying around but didnt have the instructions. Would like to get it all installed by the weekend if at all possible 
Any setup tips and pics of how they are mounted would be appreciated as well.
Any setup tips and pics of how they are mounted would be appreciated as well.
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After looking over them for a while, it seems that latched operation would probably be best for my M6 car. If I understood it correctly the gray wire needs to splice into the clutch switch but what about the white (arming wire)? Is it best to be on a push button type switch or rocker type to select it? Additionally what is the yellow (relay output) used for?
Pushbutton momentary on the white wire. You just need to pulse the ground to get it to latch.
Yellow is there to run a relay, or light. Turn off a nitrous system activated by a WOT switch for example. Kind of whatever
Yellow is there to run a relay, or light. Turn off a nitrous system activated by a WOT switch for example. Kind of whatever
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Got it all wired up. White wire is on a momentary switch and gray is connected to pin 32 on the Blue PCM connector for the clutch. It functionally works but something doesnt seem right because the exhaust sounds all stuffy and back fires a lot. Does it matter which coil pack the connectors are plugged into?
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I dont think that cant be it... I totally removed the 2 step and its still doing it. Almost seems like fuel is being dumped into the motor nonstop. Plugs are about a week old as well (TR6's).
Stick with what we talked about. Whether it was a side effect of the 2 step(which I doubt) or just coincidence, but I think the Cam Position Sensor is shot. I struggled with that one for 3 weeks on my car. 
Cam sensor and the 2 step never come in contact with eachother.
As for the 2 step, it doesn't matter which connector goes where. It should pop some with the 2 step, but with it removed it's probably not the 2 step
Check both injector fuses in the fuse block first, one feeds each side of the motor.
Check the gray connectors where the coils/2 step plug in for bent or pushed back pins from the 2 step install.
If it was the cam sensor, you'd have no tach movement on the dash. And it would not start half the time, then it would start the next while the PCM flip flops sides of the motor trying to match the non existant cam signal.
As for the 2 step, it doesn't matter which connector goes where. It should pop some with the 2 step, but with it removed it's probably not the 2 step
Check both injector fuses in the fuse block first, one feeds each side of the motor.
Check the gray connectors where the coils/2 step plug in for bent or pushed back pins from the 2 step install.
If it was the cam sensor, you'd have no tach movement on the dash. And it would not start half the time, then it would start the next while the PCM flip flops sides of the motor trying to match the non existant cam signal.
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^ I think the issue just came up while I did the 2 step install... dont really think that the 2 step itself had anything to do with it. I'm going to try the cam position sensor first and see how it goes. All pins, fuses, ect... have already been checked.
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Well..... changed out the cam position sensor and all is good again BUT once you hook up the 2 step it must send it all out of whack. The car backfires a lot and you can feel a huge power loss. The weird part is if you unplug the 2 step and drive around for a while it will clear back up. Something must be going astray inside the circuits or something.
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
are you sure the 2 step isn't on?
Try setting it for 0 RPM and see what's up. That will let you leave it in the system, but disable any limiter.
Try setting it for 0 RPM and see what's up. That will let you leave it in the system, but disable any limiter.
I completely disconnected the momentary switch and it still does it but I'll try zeroing it out and post up in a few.
