Battery Relocation Is Done! Pics Inside.
Originally Posted by CAT3
Looks pretty nice, really like the bracket refitting you done.
11SECSS, why not leave the Dynabatt in all the time? FWIW, I have the Odessey and run it daily, with all factory power bullsh*t, no issues whatsoever.
Charlie
11SECSS, why not leave the Dynabatt in all the time? FWIW, I have the Odessey and run it daily, with all factory power bullsh*t, no issues whatsoever.
Charlie
Originally Posted by 11SECSS
Its not that much trouble to switch it out and I dont trust it when I leave my fans on or play radio without car running ...plus I only plan to go to the track about 2 times a month
Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
Yes, but we can't all be as weight-obsessed as you. 
Sometimes, when I start to think that I'm hardcore, I just look back to that thread about your "ultra-lightweight" Kirkeys. Just makes me laugh thinking about it.
Gotta give you props dude, if there's weight that can be lost, you'll find it somewhere. I half expect to see you riding on a milkcrate with a pair of vise-grips clamped onto the steering hub. Now THAT'D be hardcore...
FWIW, I am seriously thinking about taking out the radio and speakers, any idea how much weight that'd drop?
Oh, and CAT3 and monsterls1, thanks for the compliments guys.
Sometimes, when I start to think that I'm hardcore, I just look back to that thread about your "ultra-lightweight" Kirkeys. Just makes me laugh thinking about it. Gotta give you props dude, if there's weight that can be lost, you'll find it somewhere. I half expect to see you riding on a milkcrate with a pair of vise-grips clamped onto the steering hub.
Now THAT'D be hardcore...FWIW, I am seriously thinking about taking out the radio and speakers, any idea how much weight that'd drop?
Oh, and CAT3 and monsterls1, thanks for the compliments guys.
Originally Posted by lafnlt1
why did you not use the BMR battery tray, the battery would be hidden in the spare tire area?
Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
Because I could have gotten the AFCO box (the same damn thing) for 25 bucks, and I wanted to eventually mount a bottle in the spare tire well.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax County, VA (You know you're here when you see the bad roads)
Hey man, on the third picture down on your front page, you have three (3) wires comming out of the side of that "Lightning Audio" block. Could you tell me what theses three wires run to? I'm doing this mod next weekend!
Originally Posted by UMD_Jesse
Hey man, on the third picture down on your front page, you have three (3) wires comming out of the side of that "Lightning Audio" block. Could you tell me what theses three wires run to? I'm doing this mod next weekend!
Update on the relocation, everything has been fine since I've done it, the car starts just the same as it did before, and all accessories run normally. Took the car to the track, and I did a new best on street tires, with worse air than last time I ran it on street tires since the converter...
12.635 @ 110.8 2.0 60". Car definitely transfers weight better now. Really glad I did this mod.
For anyone interested, I used the Taylor 48000 battery relocation kit, a Lightning Audio 1/0 to three 4 ga distribution block, and a Raptor 1/0 ga ANL fuse holder with a 200 amp fuse. It's pretty easy to see how I did it from the pictures. Not hard at all.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax County, VA (You know you're here when you see the bad roads)
One more question about this install. How do you hook up the negative cable up front? Im doing this mod this weekend. I already ran the cable and mounted my battery box. I just have to do the actualy swap. The only thing I dont understand is what to do with the black ground up front. Its hard to see from you pic exactley whats going on there.
thanks!!
thanks!!
Originally Posted by UMD_Jesse
One more question about this install. How do you hook up the negative cable up front? Im doing this mod this weekend. I already ran the cable and mounted my battery box. I just have to do the actualy swap. The only thing I dont understand is what to do with the black ground up front. Its hard to see from you pic exactley whats going on there.
thanks!!
thanks!!
Just 1 question,
Did you run another ground wire from the battery to the engine block, since you left the factory one unhooked?
Did you run another ground wire from the battery to the engine block, since you left the factory one unhooked?
Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
76LS1BIRD has a good solution, as for myself, I just left it hanging there for now. If you look in this picture, you can kinda see where it is already connected on the body. I plan to cut the battery terminal part of it off, then put it somewhere down on the subframe out of sight.
That wouldn't be neccesary. You can ground the rear battery in the rear to the car's body. You can see that the even though the ground cable is hanging there it is not an open circuit. One of the cables is going to something and the other is grounded to the car. As long as the engine is grounded really well with the body and the battery is grounded to either of those, it will be fine.
I can't speak for these guys, but the seatbelt bolts make good locations. There are several layers of metal there. Scrape away all the paint and use star washers along with the factory lockwasher and bolt.
Below are some example parts. It shouldn't be too hard.
Below are some example parts. It shouldn't be too hard.
Wow, back from the dead... Someone get a shotgun and shoot this sumbitch in the head so it doesn't come back again.
Shortly after that I upgraded the ground. I just got four feet of 2 ga wire from Advance and two terminal lugs. Deleted the crappy stocker and did this.
FWIW, with the stocker the car was acting a little wonky at/off idle. I think that the PCM was getting a weird ground fluctuation. After the ground swap, it was fine.
I grounded the battery in the back to the bottom of the spare tire well. Just scraped off the undercoating for a good ground and tightened the crap out of the bolt that I ran through it. It's been fine ever since.
Shortly after that I upgraded the ground. I just got four feet of 2 ga wire from Advance and two terminal lugs. Deleted the crappy stocker and did this.
FWIW, with the stocker the car was acting a little wonky at/off idle. I think that the PCM was getting a weird ground fluctuation. After the ground swap, it was fine.
I grounded the battery in the back to the bottom of the spare tire well. Just scraped off the undercoating for a good ground and tightened the crap out of the bolt that I ran through it. It's been fine ever since.
Good deal. Wondering if you put the battery in the tire well area (I know you want to put a N20 bottle there) and put the cover back over it, would it be NHRA legal then?
Dan
Dan