Battery Relocation Is Done! Pics Inside.
#1
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After saying I was going to do it for a while, I finally got off my butt and did it, and it only cost me $55.
(I basically got the battery relocation kit for $5.)
I used the Taylor Relocation Kit PN:48000 It's got 2ga wire included. Here's how it's mounted.
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation2.jpg)
I mounted it like this so I can still use my T-top holders, and put a nitrous bottle in the spare tire well. I used big machine screws to hold down the plate. I did have to cut and weld the hold-down, because it was too wide for the battery and didn't hold it well enough for my tastes. It's fixed now though, and fits like a glove.
Here's my insurance should something short out...
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation3.jpg)
And here's how I handled the connections up front. I like this configuration. I'm going to mount a Summit recirculating catch can up there as soon as I get around to getting one ordered. How have you guys done the ground? I was thinking of cutting off the terminal, taking the other wire off the post, joining them, and then re-running the wire to hide it better.
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation4.jpg)
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation5.jpg)
And here's what it looks like inside.
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation6.jpg)
I like how this cleaned a lot of things up. I can already tell a difference in the weight transfer. Tell me what you guys think of my relocation.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I used the Taylor Relocation Kit PN:48000 It's got 2ga wire included. Here's how it's mounted.
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation2.jpg)
I mounted it like this so I can still use my T-top holders, and put a nitrous bottle in the spare tire well. I used big machine screws to hold down the plate. I did have to cut and weld the hold-down, because it was too wide for the battery and didn't hold it well enough for my tastes. It's fixed now though, and fits like a glove.
Here's my insurance should something short out...
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation3.jpg)
And here's how I handled the connections up front. I like this configuration. I'm going to mount a Summit recirculating catch can up there as soon as I get around to getting one ordered. How have you guys done the ground? I was thinking of cutting off the terminal, taking the other wire off the post, joining them, and then re-running the wire to hide it better.
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation4.jpg)
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation5.jpg)
And here's what it looks like inside.
![](http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/JPouncey/BatteryRelocation6.jpg)
I like how this cleaned a lot of things up. I can already tell a difference in the weight transfer. Tell me what you guys think of my relocation.
#3
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You say you can feel the difference in the weight transfer from moving the battery from the front to the rear? You must have some super human ability to feel a couple pounds difference in 3500 pounds.
#4
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Originally Posted by TransAm_00
You say you can feel the difference in the weight transfer from moving the battery from the front to the rear? You must have some super human ability to feel a couple pounds difference in 3500 pounds.
#5
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Thats not a very educated post. Can you not tell the difference between a 1/4 tank and a full gas tank? Thats about 10 gallons x 6.5 Lbs, or 65 Lbs. Pretty similar to what a battery weighs.... although that optima should be a bit lighter. Weight relocation should even be more profound, because on top of adding 50 Lbs to the rear for traction, youre also removing to lbs from the front allowing it to raise higher, planting the rear even more firmly.
If you don't believe me, try it yourself.
#7
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Originally Posted by SeeYaSucker
Where did you route your cable? along the bottom of the car or inside?
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#9
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Originally Posted by 11SECSS
Do you know if that will pass tech not being in a sealed box ....also do you plan on installing a cut off switch....main reason why I just stick with my dyna battery up front when I go to the track and then put stock back in afterwards.
I'll probably go with a Moroso box later, get a spare taillight, and run the cut-off switch through the extra taillight, like I've seen some other guys do.
#11
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Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
It won't pass tech, but they don't do tech whenever I race, so it's not an issue. If I decide to race in the footbrake class at the local track, I'd have to get the box, cut-off switch, driveshaft loop, helmet, and I'm sure a couple other little things to be legal, but since I'm not racing the car "officially", and I just go to test-n-tune, I'm not worrying about it right now.
I'll probably go with a Moroso box later, get a spare taillight, and run the cut-off switch through the extra taillight, like I've seen some other guys do.
I'll probably go with a Moroso box later, get a spare taillight, and run the cut-off switch through the extra taillight, like I've seen some other guys do.
#12
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Originally Posted by chrs1313
how much extra weight did you add to the car total all wires and bolts etc..
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
A little bit of weight added to pay major dividends in traction. I actually had to just put my stock coil spring isolators back on the car because the rear after the relocation was about an inch lower than the front.
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
#14
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Looks pretty nice, really like the bracket refitting you done.
11SECSS, why not leave the Dynabatt in all the time? FWIW, I have the Odessey and run it daily, with all factory power bullsh*t, no issues whatsoever.
Charlie
11SECSS, why not leave the Dynabatt in all the time? FWIW, I have the Odessey and run it daily, with all factory power bullsh*t, no issues whatsoever.
Charlie
#16
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Originally Posted by SUX2BU
WERD. i just threw in a hawker oddesy bat and lost 25 lbs. you gained 10 lbs so thats a 35 lb difference.![Icon Eek](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_eek.gif)
![Icon Eek](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_eek.gif)
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
Gotta give you props dude, if there's weight that can be lost, you'll find it somewhere. I half expect to see you riding on a milkcrate with a pair of vise-grips clamped onto the steering hub.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
FWIW, I am seriously thinking about taking out the radio and speakers, any idea how much weight that'd drop?
Oh, and CAT3 and monsterls1, thanks for the compliments guys.
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
#18
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Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
Probably no more than 8-10 lbs all told. I guess I need to change my raceweight, huh?
A little bit of weight added to pay major dividends in traction. I actually had to just put my stock coil spring isolators back on the car because the rear after the relocation was about an inch lower than the front.![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
A little bit of weight added to pay major dividends in traction. I actually had to just put my stock coil spring isolators back on the car because the rear after the relocation was about an inch lower than the front.
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)