Its not that much trouble to switch it out and I dont trust it when I leave my fans on or play radio without car running ...plus I only plan to go to the track about 2 times a month

 

Yeah i daily drive my oddesy bat, but i don't leave anything on while the car is off.

 

On the radio, speakers, factory amp, cd changer (if applicable), antenna and all the wiring i'de say a good 50 lbs.

 

why did you not use the BMR battery tray, the battery would be hidden in the spare tire area?

 

Because I could have gotten the AFCO box (the same damn thing) for 25 bucks, and I wanted to eventually mount a bottle in the spare tire well.

 

cool, that would make sense.

 

Hey man, on the third picture down on your front page, you have three (3) wires comming out of the side of that "Lightning Audio" block. Could you tell me what theses three wires run to? I'm doing this mod next weekend!

 

Don't know which one's which, but they'd have to be alternator, starter, and fuse box. I just clipped the terminal off, stripped the three wires, and ran them into the block. Just hook all three of them up, and they should be fine.

Update on the relocation, everything has been fine since I've done it, the car starts just the same as it did before, and all accessories run normally. Took the car to the track, and I did a new best on street tires, with worse air than last time I ran it on street tires since the converter...

12.635 @ 110.8 2.0 60". Car definitely transfers weight better now. Really glad I did this mod.

For anyone interested, I used the Taylor 48000 battery relocation kit, a Lightning Audio 1/0 to three 4 ga distribution block, and a Raptor 1/0 ga ANL fuse holder with a 200 amp fuse. It's pretty easy to see how I did it from the pictures. Not hard at all.

 

Nice install.

 

Oh, forgot, cut the length of the bolts and you can save a lot of weight! lol

 

One more question about this install. How do you hook up the negative cable up front? Im doing this mod this weekend. I already ran the cable and mounted my battery box. I just have to do the actualy swap. The only thing I dont understand is what to do with the black ground up front. Its hard to see from you pic exactley whats going on there.
thanks!!

 

I hooked ground to this ter. block & ran a # 4 wire to the frame
Wire was about 1' lg. Dale

This makes it easy to go back to stock.

 

76LS1BIRD has a good solution, as for myself, I just left it hanging there for now. If you look in this picture, you can kinda see where it is already connected on the body. I plan to cut the battery terminal part of it off, then put it somewhere down on the subframe out of sight.

 

Just 1 question,
Did you run another ground wire from the battery to the engine block, since you left the factory one unhooked?

 

That wouldn't be neccesary. You can ground the rear battery in the rear to the car's body. You can see that the even though the ground cable is hanging there it is not an open circuit. One of the cables is going to something and the other is grounded to the car. As long as the engine is grounded really well with the body and the battery is grounded to either of those, it will be fine.

 

Nice work.

 

Where did you ground? I couldnt find a good ground back there, having problems with startup.

 

I can't speak for these guys, but the seatbelt bolts make good locations. There are several layers of metal there. Scrape away all the paint and use star washers along with the factory lockwasher and bolt.

Below are some example parts. It shouldn't be too hard.

 

Wow, back from the dead... Someone get a shotgun and shoot this sumbitch in the head so it doesn't come back again.

Shortly after that I upgraded the ground. I just got four feet of 2 ga wire from Advance and two terminal lugs. Deleted the crappy stocker and did this.



FWIW, with the stocker the car was acting a little wonky at/off idle. I think that the PCM was getting a weird ground fluctuation. After the ground swap, it was fine.

I grounded the battery in the back to the bottom of the spare tire well. Just scraped off the undercoating for a good ground and tightened the crap out of the bolt that I ran through it. It's been fine ever since.

 

Good deal. Wondering if you put the battery in the tire well area (I know you want to put a N20 bottle there) and put the cover back over it, would it be NHRA legal then?

Dan