Is it possible to hit the tires too hard?
Is it possible to hit the tires too hard? My setup is doing pretty well, but my 60' could use a little improvment. On sunday I went to the track for the first time with my new setup and my 60' stayed the same. Changes made were 12 bolt, 4.11s, bogarts, hoosier QTPs 11.5x27, about 100lbs off the front end and lca relocation brackets. I still couldn't do better than a 1.61 60' I have around 400rwhp and a 4000 stall. It seems to hook and pull the front end up and then it jerks a couple times and then goes. I'm brake stalling to 3000, my shocks are set to 1 in front and 5 in back and I'm in the lowest hole on the relocation brackets. I never had wheel hop with my old setup but I think that might be what I'm getting. Is it possible I'm hitting the rear tires too hard causing them to bounce? What kind of adjustments should I try to get it to dead hook? The pic in my sig is right before the wheel hop I'm trying to describe. I think my setup should be good for at least 1.5s. Can any of you susspension guys give me some advise? Everything on my setup is adjustable, I just don't know what to adjust. Last thing, my pinion angle is -2. TIA for any help.
I would start by stiffening the rear shocks. IF you are getting wheel hop that will stop it. Go one click at a time till it goes away.
How much air is in the tires??
How much air is in the tires??
If you are hopping...maybe try coming out a little harder...or a little softer for that matter. You are probably in that zone between bogging and breaking lose.
I had it happen to me last night, and i came out a little harder and made a much better pass!
I had it happen to me last night, and i came out a little harder and made a much better pass!
I would also place your LCAs at the middle hole of the relocation brackets. This will have a closer to ideal angle on the LCA for traction. I tried it and noticed a .1-.15 second drop in 60' times. You may want to try this out if the other suggestions don't pan out. 
Originally Posted by 12secSS
I would also place your LCAs at the middle hole of the relocation brackets. This will have a closer to ideal angle on the LCA for traction. I tried it and noticed a .1-.15 second drop in 60' times. You may want to try this out if the other suggestions don't pan out.
I do not have problems hooking at the tracks my car goes to but do have the relocation brackets sitting on the shelf waiting to go on but so far I have not seen the need for it.
Also, how much tire pressure do you have and usually if the car is wheel hopping we leave harder, works every time!
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Originally Posted by 12secSS
I would also place your LCAs at the middle hole of the relocation brackets. This will have a closer to ideal angle on the LCA for traction. I tried it and noticed a .1-.15 second drop in 60' times. You may want to try this out if the other suggestions don't pan out.
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
This change in LCA position, were you dead hooking before and made the change and gained that much?
I do not have problems hooking at the tracks my car goes to but do have the relocation brackets sitting on the shelf waiting to go on but so far I have not seen the need for it.
Also, how much tire pressure do you have and usually if the car is wheel hopping we leave harder, works every time!
I do not have problems hooking at the tracks my car goes to but do have the relocation brackets sitting on the shelf waiting to go on but so far I have not seen the need for it.
Also, how much tire pressure do you have and usually if the car is wheel hopping we leave harder, works every time!
Tire pressure for us is around 12 PSI depending on the track conditions. Mind you, everything else needs to be setup properly as well, our LCAs were "binding" against our TQ arm I suspect. Proper supension geometry is crucial! Last edited by 12secSS; Apr 27, 2006 at 12:51 PM.
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Thanks everyone. Now I have some testing to do. Since my car isn't lowered, I think I can go up to the next hole in the relocation brackets. Then I'm going to start with 18psi and rear shocks on 6. This way if I'm still having some issues, I can adjust the shocks until there is no more wheel hop. Then if I'm spinning I can try letting some air out of the tires. Hopefully I can get it just right. I'll post up in here after I get some results.
Originally Posted by rufretic
Thanks everyone. Now I have some testing to do. Since my car isn't lowered, I think I can go up to the next hole in the relocation brackets. Then I'm going to start with 18psi and rear shocks on 6. This way if I'm still having some issues, I can adjust the shocks until there is no more wheel hop. Then if I'm spinning I can try letting some air out of the tires. Hopefully I can get it just right. I'll post up in here after I get some results.
Originally Posted by Shon Herron
18PSI, what tires? we use that PSI to load it up on the trailer, first pass is at 15PSI or 12.5PSI (depending on who is running the tire gauge).
Oh, and by the way, no trailer here. I drive it the hour and half to and from the track
.
Originally Posted by rufretic
Oh, and by the way, no trailer here. I drive it the hour and half to and from the track .
.
I used to do that and decided leaving some on the table was no fun so we got a trailer and use it.
Well I ran it last night with the lcas in the next hole up. It got rid of the wheel hop but now it just spins. Shocks in back were at 6 and had the psi down to 13. I only got to make 3 passes so didn't get to try to many different settings. My last pass I did get an all time best ET but only with a 1.74 60'. If I could get this thing to hook it would be good for low 11s. I wish I had a track closer because I need to test more, driving an hour and a half for 3 passes sucks. Oh well, at least I have a new best and I'm very happy the cars running as good as it is for a cam only setup.
If anyone thinks they can help me to get that 60' down please do, I'm willing to try anything to get it to hook right.
If anyone thinks they can help me to get that 60' down please do, I'm willing to try anything to get it to hook right.
If it was me - and it was - listen to Brian (MadMan). He's done a "few" suspension set ups over the years. You move your relocation bracket back, than your shock settings and tire pressure. One thing at a time. You changed 3 items - relocation, tire pressue, shock settings - you have now no clue what to change to get it to hook again. Put it back to the way you had it. Go out make a run. If it still dead hooks, increase the tire pressure 1lb. Make another run. Do 1 setting at a time until you get it where you want it. If you don't hook, at least you'll know what it doesn't like. Also, track conditions change. Most - not all - set their fronts at 3 and rears at 6 to start. You want ideally, the rears tires to spin about a 1/4 turn and than hook
Good luck.
David
Good luck.
David
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If your tire dead hooks at the hit you could end up in a wheel stand you weren't prepared for. The tire is going to turn itself over at the hit. Usually it's about half a turn. It generally occurs when the rear end throws itself into the ground and the slick wadds up.
Originally Posted by Navy David SS
If it was me - and it was - listen to Brian (MadMan). He's done a "few" suspension set ups over the years. You move your relocation bracket back, than your shock settings and tire pressure. One thing at a time. You changed 3 items - relocation, tire pressue, shock settings - you have now no clue what to change to get it to hook again. Put it back to the way you had it. Go out make a run. If it still dead hooks, increase the tire pressure 1lb. Make another run. Do 1 setting at a time until you get it where you want it. If you don't hook, at least you'll know what it doesn't like. Also, track conditions change. Most - not all - set their fronts at 3 and rears at 6 to start. You want ideally, the rears tires to spin about a 1/4 turn and than hook
Good luck.
David
Good luck.
David