Pro stars need longer studs?
Pro stars need longer studs? I just got a set of pro stars for track use, they are 15x3.5 and 15x10. The BS on the 15x10's is 5.5(according to the seller, still not sure if they are 15x8 or 15x10). How do I tell if I need longer studs in the rear? I can get the lug nuts to go in and thread on a good deal, shouldn't that be all I need? With the wheel on the car the stud comes through about 1/2 half to the outside of the wheel(the pro stars have a very thick center), so the stud doesn't poke out of the wheel but the lug nuts are those deep drag lug nuts. Will this be ok?
the wheel probably isnt seating all the way. in case your not aware with pro stars and 4th gens you are going to need to grind the hub a little bit to make some clearance, then in should slide on better
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
i bought prostar xp's.
and my backspacing is also 5.5, i dont know about you, but i had to grind the rear calipers just a little bit to make them clear. but other than that the back wheels should be fine.
but the fronts are a different story. i still havent put my fronts on yet, because you either have to grind the **** out of the caliper, or buy longer studs and a spacer in order to push the wheel out enough to clear the caliper.
got any pics?
and my backspacing is also 5.5, i dont know about you, but i had to grind the rear calipers just a little bit to make them clear. but other than that the back wheels should be fine.
but the fronts are a different story. i still havent put my fronts on yet, because you either have to grind the **** out of the caliper, or buy longer studs and a spacer in order to push the wheel out enough to clear the caliper.
got any pics?
I'm gonna get the calipers ground today. I was told by the previous owner of the wheels he just ran a spacer on the fronts and it was fine. But he said he ran longer studs on the rear. I'll get some pictures of the studs with the wheel in place on the rear and see what you guys think of my situation. Problems is I don't want longer studs cause these are just drag wheels, I want to run my TT2's on the street but I don't think my street lugs would go all the way on the longer studs.
You don't need longer studs. I run draglites (same as prostars just different design). Before I decided to grind the crap out of my calipers I ran spacers all around. With a 3100+ lb. car I have cut 1.43 60's with no problems. I have since ground the crap out of the calipers and installed longer studs w/ open lug nuts, but you should be fine with stock length studs and no spacer definatly. And since you're going to grind so much, might as well grind the fronts and go no spacer up there too. (My fronts didn't need as much as the rears). Don't know if it makes a difference or not, but I run 15x3.5's up front and 15x10's out back with 7.5" BS. Just make sure to turn the lugnuts by hand as far as you can and loosen them all up evenly or you'll strip a stud out.
****... my prostars are 15x10 with 5.5" BS, and there is no way I can get these things to work without like a 1/2" spacer on there. We've already ground a lot off and if we grind anymore it looks like it's gonna sacrifice the integrity of the caliper. I am pretty sure I am about screwed on this... I think I need 7.5" BS on this wheel. I don't really want to run a 1/2" of spacers and extremely long studs.
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8 second club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 199
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From: Greenwood, IN
For Drag Racing the studs have to stick out into the hex part of the lug nut, at least as far as the stud diameter.
Example: 1/2" stud has to have the stud at least a 1/2" into the hex part of lug.
Example: 1/2" stud has to have the stud at least a 1/2" into the hex part of lug.
Originally Posted by G&HRacing
For Drag Racing the studs have to stick out into the hex part of the lug nut, at least as far as the stud diameter.
Example: 1/2" stud has to have the stud at least a 1/2" into the hex part of lug.
Example: 1/2" stud has to have the stud at least a 1/2" into the hex part of lug.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
From: Metairie, LA
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ghlight=duplex
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ghlight=duplex
Check the posts by Injuneer. He covers this topic fairly extensively over at cz28.com
Good Luck and let me know how it turns out.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ghlight=duplex
Check the posts by Injuneer. He covers this topic fairly extensively over at cz28.com
Good Luck and let me know how it turns out.
That car is sssoooooo sexy....lol. Yea, you really need longer studs, but if you want to keep using your normal wheels and "pretty" lug nuts, you can get by w/o them. I did this for 2-3 years, and every f-body I know of here that run prostars/draglites use normal studs w/o problems. Don't know if BS will matter on the grinding part, but you do have to GRIND ALOT. You will be sick of it twice before you get done. 15x10 w/ 5.5BS would stick out bad. Hope you get it figured out. Later.
Chris
Chris
BS doesn't affect how much you have to grind. The face of the wheel does.(part that touches the rotor) The curve off the face is what hits the caliper.
5.5 is gonna stick out alot. most people use 7.5 bs with 10's
You will need longer studs. I tried 2.5's and had to goto 3.25's so they would be legal
5.5 is gonna stick out alot. most people use 7.5 bs with 10's
You will need longer studs. I tried 2.5's and had to goto 3.25's so they would be legal
