guys I need some help
04-17-2007 | 08:53 AM
#63
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From: Wentzville MO
Guys I appreciate the help ,but my grounds are fine I've checked them over and over again. I'm going to work on it tonight and hopefully come up with something. This thing is really beginning to **** me off 
04-17-2007 | 08:59 AM
#64
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From: Wentzville MO
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I'd run a ) guage wire, and do a dedicated ground wire from the battery to the box, just to be safe. I've read about people having problems with bs3 that wasn't grounded right to the battery.
Not sure if you have the wires/lugs up in the front still, but I'd put a battery up there if you can just to try it... if that works then restring teh biggest damn wire to the back you can find.
Could the battery kill switch in the back be going.... that might bhave some resistance to it too if it's getting worn, could also be a problem.
If you can, take a multimeter and get a resistance reading from the positive battery terminal to the power wire up at the front, when everything is on it shouldn't be much at all
Not sure if you have the wires/lugs up in the front still, but I'd put a battery up there if you can just to try it... if that works then restring teh biggest damn wire to the back you can find.
Could the battery kill switch in the back be going.... that might bhave some resistance to it too if it's getting worn, could also be a problem.
If you can, take a multimeter and get a resistance reading from the positive battery terminal to the power wire up at the front, when everything is on it shouldn't be much at all
Good points I have tried running the box to the battery though and no luck. My battery is going up front next time I look at it. The only weird thing is I can jump and see 10.7 cranking volts and it still won't fire. When it did fire it fired at 9.5 cranking volts.
Last edited by TOSTO RACING; 04-17-2007 at 09:34 AM.
04-17-2007 | 01:16 PM
#67
Sounds like the same **** my car was doing when I put the new motor in.. I think my problem was easier than yours is though. The freakin car would turn over all day, but would never even think about hittin.. Come to find out the freakin fuse for the dash lights or gauges was blown which for some stupid *** reason kills everything..
04-17-2007 | 08:22 PM
#68
Originally Posted by 1QuickT-A
Sounds like the same **** my car was doing when I put the new motor in.. I think my problem was easier than yours is though. The freakin car would turn over all day, but would never even think about hittin.. Come to find out the freakin fuse for the dash lights or gauges was blown which for some stupid *** reason kills everything..
04-21-2007 | 02:54 PM
#69
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From: Wentzville MO
Tried the 16 volt battery nothing. I have the msd straight to a good 12 volt battery and now have 12.3 cranking volts and still won't fire. What a nightmare this car has been. I'm sending both of these boxes back to msd and hopefully they are bad.
I have a crank signal,cam signal,12 volts cranking,good ground,map signal,and timing works wtf.
I hope they can see something wrong with the boxes its my last resort before I go a different route before I sell it. F#$#%%$ cCARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have a crank signal,cam signal,12 volts cranking,good ground,map signal,and timing works wtf.
I hope they can see something wrong with the boxes its my last resort before I go a different route before I sell it. F#$#%%$ cCARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
04-26-2007 | 01:52 PM
#70
Originally Posted by TOSTO RACING
My guess is the factory ignition may be able to get a signal at say .100 gap and say msd gap has to be .050 thousands it makes sense ,but hard to believe 
04-26-2007 | 06:52 PM
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From: Wentzville MO
I was just using an example. I have no idea what its supposed to be. The car ran fine before with the factory ignition and now doesn't. I doubt its the gap, like I said it ran before just fine with the same gap I have now whatever it may be its stock. Also I am getting a crank signal from the sensor to the box so it is working just fine.
I hope msd comes up with some bad boxes.
I hope msd comes up with some bad boxes.
04-26-2007 | 09:54 PM
#72
Dammit man, sorry for your luck. I hope it is your boxes. I know I've had to send 2 of my 6AL boxes back to MSD. 
That was back in the Chevy II. I would have hoped they had their probs ironed out by now. On a similar note, you don't have the only HOSS in MO. that is not running when it should be. 
That was back in the Chevy II. I would have hoped they had their probs ironed out by now. On a similar note, you don't have the only HOSS in MO. that is not running when it should be.
04-28-2007 | 04:39 AM
#73
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I was talking to a guy at work that had the same problem and I think the same box but its a distributor car.
He had to connect a few wires and the car would not start but would crank and plow fuel out the headers.
What happend was is a few wires were old and had got hot and changed collors just enough that he confused them. He swaped them and the car fired right up.
Just a thought.
He had to connect a few wires and the car would not start but would crank and plow fuel out the headers.
What happend was is a few wires were old and had got hot and changed collors just enough that he confused them. He swaped them and the car fired right up.
Just a thought.
04-29-2007 | 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TOSTO RACING
I'm hoping its an msd box bad. They said 10-14 days before they can test it
I'll be racing by oct I hope
I'll be racing by oct I hope
That seems like a long time.
I hope to be racing by October.
I think I will poop my pants the first time I go for a full power run off the T brake........
That is if I have the gonads to do that this year.
05-01-2007 | 09:39 AM
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From: Wentzville MO
Here is my problem too.
Thanks to ALL UC2 for digging this thread up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/686380-6-0-fox-body.html
What a piece of crap. I posted this on msd's website so maybe they can tell you when buying it that it might or might not work with an aftermarket crank
Thanks to ALL UC2 for digging this thread up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/686380-6-0-fox-body.html
What a piece of crap. I posted this on msd's website so maybe they can tell you when buying it that it might or might not work with an aftermarket crank
05-01-2007 | 10:00 AM
#77
Sounds almost like your reluctor wheel is off....
Definitely would say the crank and box will not work together, like as you found out.
We had problems with our C5-R but it was of a different color. We were testing a one off thing with our BS3.
Instead, we ripped it off, moved to a simple crank trigger and Belt drive Distributor. Everything is A OK now. I still think we should build a sheetmetal though and run it two Dominator's up top
Good luck on your setup Tim. I hope you get it straightened out. PM me if you need any other suggestions.
Gray
Definitely would say the crank and box will not work together, like as you found out.
We had problems with our C5-R but it was of a different color. We were testing a one off thing with our BS3.
Instead, we ripped it off, moved to a simple crank trigger and Belt drive Distributor. Everything is A OK now. I still think we should build a sheetmetal though and run it two Dominator's up top
Good luck on your setup Tim. I hope you get it straightened out. PM me if you need any other suggestions.
Gray
05-01-2007 | 12:44 PM
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From: Wentzville MO
My main question this whole time is why did it run efi and the factory pcm. The motor hasn't even been taken apart so the reluctor wheel is in the same spot is was before and it ran 
I'm going dist anyway. I understand the gap deal also ,but why did it run with the pcm???
I'm going dist anyway. I understand the gap deal also ,but why did it run with the pcm???
