Pro Tree practice?
#1
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Is there a way to practice for working a pro tree without actually going to the track? Like are there any websites that simulate a tree or anything like that? The local track only has a pro tree on certain events like the first Saturday of each month type of thing...
I am racing in an index series this year and the first race was last weekend and I had some crappy R/T's, like .328 as one of the better ones...
I am racing of a hadicapped (.5) pro tree.
Thanks for any info...
I am racing in an index series this year and the first race was last weekend and I had some crappy R/T's, like .328 as one of the better ones...
I am racing of a hadicapped (.5) pro tree.
Thanks for any info...
#2
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#4
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Originally Posted by WanaRace
BTW, thanks for showing it to me...
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Originally Posted by 1SlowFormula
Strange I guess my car is just slow off the line then, since I am hitting between .015 and .075 on that game...
BTW, thanks for showing it to me...
BTW, thanks for showing it to me...
#6
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Once both cars are fully staged, you have 1/2 second until the yellow comes on.
You just have to be totally ready, converter stalled if needed, etc, when the last car lights the stage bulb. You know the yellow is coming, so when you see a hint of yellow, you are gone! It is really hard to red light with a footbrake, so dont worry about that! Unless you try to "time" the light.
You could always deep stage, but you would have to do that every time to be consistent. And there is more of a possibility of redlighting.
Al
You just have to be totally ready, converter stalled if needed, etc, when the last car lights the stage bulb. You know the yellow is coming, so when you see a hint of yellow, you are gone! It is really hard to red light with a footbrake, so dont worry about that! Unless you try to "time" the light.
You could always deep stage, but you would have to do that every time to be consistent. And there is more of a possibility of redlighting.
Al
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Yeah a lot of it is your car. At some tracks I know guys that had trouble red lighting on a .500 pro tree running high 10's.
You're definetely going to have to bump in fairly far (not necessarily deep bulb but take a big chunk out of the bottom one).
You're definetely going to have to bump in fairly far (not necessarily deep bulb but take a big chunk out of the bottom one).
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Getting a good light on a pro tree is very dependant on how quick you react and how quick the car gets out of the beams. My 3500 lb Nova hits 1.5-60 foots can be a hair slow off the footbrake (.070-.100 lights), but I hit the transbrake and can go -.020 red off a 3200 chip. You may want to try deep staging as well for a better light.
Derek
Derek
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A tip from someone that runs Pro-Tree, your thumb must do the thinking. If your brain says hey thumb move, it's too late. I can feel when my thumb moves or my brain moves it. I actually know guys that run a box on a Pro-Tree. Practice is the key, play with your finger at lights, watching TV, anything. I still recommend if buying a practice tree, get the adjustable roll out style. Mine was less than $200.
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A tip from someone that runs Pro-Tree, your thumb must do the thinking. If your brain says hey thumb move, it's too late. I can feel when my thumb moves or my brain moves it. I actually know guys that run a box on a Pro-Tree. Practice is the key, play with your finger at lights, watching TV, anything. I still recommend if buying a practice tree, get the adjustable roll out style. Mine was less than $200.
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