Ratcheted tie-down to keep engine from torquing?
Ratcheted tie-down to keep engine from torquing? I've seen this on a few cars as of late.
It looks like it has bad idea written all over it.
People are wrapping nylon tie-downs (the kind you'd use to keep your ATV
from falling off the trailer) around their accessory brackets and tying them to
the K member to limit engine torquing on hard launches.
When I asked about it, one guy looked at me like I was somehow in the dark
about this magic trick and that I was crazy for suggesting stiffer motor
mounts or plates.
Thoughts? (and no, you won't be seeing this on my car anytime soon)
It looks like it has bad idea written all over it.
People are wrapping nylon tie-downs (the kind you'd use to keep your ATV
from falling off the trailer) around their accessory brackets and tying them to
the K member to limit engine torquing on hard launches.
When I asked about it, one guy looked at me like I was somehow in the dark
about this magic trick and that I was crazy for suggesting stiffer motor
mounts or plates.
Thoughts? (and no, you won't be seeing this on my car anytime soon)
Ran a strap arounda bracket, and bolted one end to the k-member. Worked for a few years. The fancier and better way is to run a chain from the body to the engine and bolt the chain to the engine.
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Ran a strap arounda bracket, and bolted one end to the k-member. Worked for a few years. The fancier and better way is to run a chain from the body to the engine and bolt the chain to the engine.
a good friend of mine has the chain on his s-10. it works really well.
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Look at it like subframe connectors. If you were serious, you'd get a full cage buit your not THAT serious about chassis stiffness. Strap and chain guys aren't ready for engine plates and solid mounts...
I'll probably do a cable type when I do the cable type suspension limiters...it probably does help quite a bit from having weight tranfer over to the passenger side if your car makes a lot of power.
I'll probably do a cable type when I do the cable type suspension limiters...it probably does help quite a bit from having weight tranfer over to the passenger side if your car makes a lot of power.
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solid mounts is the answer, but some folks complain about vibration.
if you need to strap your motor, you got vibration anyway.
i say mounts, but please dont run a tie down.
AT LEAST use some type of nice turnbuckle.
make it look like it belongs there.
they even have stainless ones at the boat shop, or some nice forged ones with gold plating at the tractor/lawn shop in your area.
good luck.
if you need to strap your motor, you got vibration anyway.
i say mounts, but please dont run a tie down.
AT LEAST use some type of nice turnbuckle.
make it look like it belongs there.
they even have stainless ones at the boat shop, or some nice forged ones with gold plating at the tractor/lawn shop in your area.
good luck.
Well I'm sure poly motor mounts would work just as good or better, but back in 2000 they didn't exist, and the strap took 10 minutes. Stopped my Mac Y pipe from hitting the driver's side floorboard.
Ok this question is a little bit off topic but since were talking about tie straps and chains for bracing on a motor another question popped into my mind.when Im launching my car and bringing the RPMs up the back end of my car will raise real high allowing me to only launch at like 2000 RPM without loosing a bunch of time during suspension movement. I have a 3500 stall and I believe I still have more in the car if I could launch at a higher rpm.Would strapping the body to the rearend to limit the suspension travel help me any or should I be looking at my torque arm adjustments or something else?
