Can you lower a trailer?
Can you lower a trailer? My car scrapes the front bumper everytime I load it. I have to add a bunch of wood blocks everytime and that gets old. I don't want to have to put ramps under the truck either.
If I could lower the trailer it would work fine and there is a ton of room in the wheel wells of the trailer. The fenders really are a lot higher than they need to be.
it is a open tailer with leaf springs btw.
If I could lower the trailer it would work fine and there is a ton of room in the wheel wells of the trailer. The fenders really are a lot higher than they need to be.
it is a open tailer with leaf springs btw.
I've also thought about this. But I think the problem is clearence between the axle and the frame. You could probably get alittle bit of drop, but might not be worth the trouble. I load my car backwards and use blocks under my ramps (they're short) and a piece of wood I screwed to the rear of the bed for the rear tires to give alittle more exhaust clearence. Also have to jack the jack way up....lol. I hate loading my car...
Chris
Chris
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Do the extension ramps like pictured above, and maybe even back your truck up on ramps like mentioned above. (This worked for me until I was able to buy the trailer I wanted)
I've been thru this, don't hack up your trailer, you may want to sell it some day and get another trailer... people are scared of modified trailers.
Just my 2cents...
I've been thru this, don't hack up your trailer, you may want to sell it some day and get another trailer... people are scared of modified trailers.
Just my 2cents...
My BriMar I just crank the front up as high as it will go, and tht' snough to get the job done.... car's lowered a couple inches in the front and an insh or so in the rear, and it doesn't hit at all. The traier also has a 4 foot "beavertail" which slants down in teh back for the last 4 feet... which helps alot I think. I used to rub on a buddy's trailer every time I loaded on it, the one I bought it's not even close.
6 & 8 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,284
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From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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The shorter wheels could work, but they will work harder (tires & bearings) and make sure you get the proper rating. If the cost is not an issue, adding a dove tail/beaver tail if done right will increase the value of your trailer and might solve your problems.
Almost every guy I know with a open trailer & lowered racecar has to do something to get on & off. Wood ramp extensions seem to be the most popular.
.
The shorter wheels could work, but they will work harder (tires & bearings) and make sure you get the proper rating. If the cost is not an issue, adding a dove tail/beaver tail if done right will increase the value of your trailer and might solve your problems.
Almost every guy I know with a open trailer & lowered racecar has to do something to get on & off. Wood ramp extensions seem to be the most popular.
.
I have a dovetail trailer. My car is not even lowered, I would hate to put it on if it was lowered. The rear was sticking up too high from weight reductions which should no longer be a problem since I got adjustable spring perches. So that should help a little because that made the front end even lower than it should have been. I think I might try longer ramps and see what that does. I seen some ramps the other day that were aluminum and longer and rated at 1500lbs. I might try them.
It sounds like we are all in the same boat. I thought it was just my trailer but it seems like everyone has to do something I mentioned.
Some times when its been hot all day and you have been at the track all day I just wish I could pull it up on the ramps and and just put the ramps up and strap it down, but I guess I am just whining
I probley won't get a new trailer unless I ever decide to get an inclosed trailer then I will get one that will not scrape. I think most enclosed are pretty low anyway.
Some times when its been hot all day and you have been at the track all day I just wish I could pull it up on the ramps and and just put the ramps up and strap it down, but I guess I am just whining
I probley won't get a new trailer unless I ever decide to get an inclosed trailer then I will get one that will not scrape. I think most enclosed are pretty low anyway. Not to pitch an add or nothing...
But I just bought a fully loaded 28' Vintage Outlaw enclosed trailer. VERY NICE
It's the first trailer that I've had that my camaro will just drive up in without any special doing.
I love it. If you can believe this or not... my wife made me buy it! Go figure! She wanted somewhere for her and the kids to chill while I was out talking cars at the track between rounds. I've got it set up with a 27" TV and my playstation. I play IHRA Sportsman Edition Drag Racing while I'm at the track to stay tuned in on the tree. It's an awsome practice tool, I have definately seen an improvement in my reaction times.
Anyways, I'll shut up
But I just bought a fully loaded 28' Vintage Outlaw enclosed trailer. VERY NICE
It's the first trailer that I've had that my camaro will just drive up in without any special doing.
I love it. If you can believe this or not... my wife made me buy it! Go figure! She wanted somewhere for her and the kids to chill while I was out talking cars at the track between rounds. I've got it set up with a 27" TV and my playstation. I play IHRA Sportsman Edition Drag Racing while I'm at the track to stay tuned in on the tree. It's an awsome practice tool, I have definately seen an improvement in my reaction times.
Anyways, I'll shut up
I used to be in the same situation. I tried Rhino Ramps under my rear wheels of the truck, but I didn't like that (especially at my local track, which does not have a paved pit area). Now, I have 3 2x4's stacked and nailed together, and I put them on the ground and then put the trailer tongue jack on them, and crank the tongue jack as high as it'll go while it's still attached to the truck. This moves the rear of the trailer down, and I don't scrape any more. It's easy and it works.