Q:WOLF sway bar users!!!
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9 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
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Q:WOLF sway bar users!!! just finished from welding in Wolf sway bar in my camaro,,,i'm not really sure what is the right way to adjust it (preload)...
i use to cut conistant 1.38 60" and a best of 9.8@138 mph(N/A)...
and here is the vid form the back,,,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WyAwDp4jQA
thx in advance,,,
i use to cut conistant 1.38 60" and a best of 9.8@138 mph(N/A)...
and here is the vid form the back,,,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WyAwDp4jQA
thx in advance,,,
The way my shop explained it is to have the driver (or someone teh same weight) sit in the car, attach the drivers side swaybar end link, and take the other end link and get it lined up absolutely perfect so that the bolt connecting the link can slide in and out easily, and make the passenger's side 1/4 turn longer then the drivers side.
That's how it was explained to me.... not sure what Wolfe suggests though.
That's how it was explained to me.... not sure what Wolfe suggests though.
9 Second Club
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Wolfe said to get jack the car up in the middle of the K-member until both wheels are off the ground. Then adjust the bar in the the rear until the drivers side front tire is touching the ground and the passenger side has just alittle light under it. Not even an 1/8in up. That doesn't look like your problem though. Looks like shock settings might help you alittle better. Looks like your frontend is coming up really fast. You could probably tighten the front and the rear and it would go better 60s. I used to run my rear shocks on 10 and the front ones on 7..........1.2 60fts
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
The way my shop explained it is to have the driver (or someone teh same weight) sit in the car, attach the drivers side swaybar end link, and take the other end link and get it lined up absolutely perfect so that the bolt connecting the link can slide in and out easily, and make the passenger's side 1/4 turn longer then the drivers side.
That's how it was explained to me.... not sure what Wolfe suggests though.
That's how it was explained to me.... not sure what Wolfe suggests though.
Originally Posted by GueSS Who
Wolfe said to get jack the car up in the middle of the K-member until both wheels are off the ground. Then adjust the bar in the the rear until the drivers side front tire is touching the ground and the passenger side has just alittle light under it. Not even an 1/8in up. That doesn't look like your problem though. Looks like shock settings might help you alittle better. Looks like your frontend is coming up really fast. You could probably tighten the front and the rear and it would go better 60s. I used to run my rear shocks on 10 and the front ones on 7..........1.2 60fts
For the correct method to setup our sway bar, please e-mail us or call (there is way to much misinformation out here).
Dan
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Put a jack in the middle of the k-member till your tires just start to come off the ground. Then measure the distance from the top of the rear tire to the quarter lip right above the tire. You want the right side to be 1/4 of an inch lower (closer to the tire) then the left side. U do this by adjusting the right heim joint.
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Originally Posted by Dan / Wolfe Race Craft
No that is not correct.
For the correct method to setup our sway bar, please e-mail us or call (there is way to much misinformation out here).
Dan
For the correct method to setup our sway bar, please e-mail us or call (there is way to much misinformation out here).
Dan
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Originally Posted by GueSS Who
Wolfe said to get jack the car up in the middle of the K-member until both wheels are off the ground. Then adjust the bar in the the rear until the drivers side front tire is touching the ground and the passenger side has just alittle light under it. Not even an 1/8in up. That doesn't look like your problem though. Looks like shock settings might help you alittle better. Looks like your frontend is coming up really fast. You could probably tighten the front and the rear and it would go better 60s. I used to run my rear shocks on 10 and the front ones on 7..........1.2 60fts
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
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guys this is what i got from the Great Dan,,,
**All Sway Bar adjustments are done without the driver in the vehicle.**
Single Sway Bar: Check your tire pressure and ensure that each tire has the same pressure. Jack the front of your vehicle up until the front wheels just start to come off the ground. Ensure that the jack is dead center on the front cross member. Measure the lower corner of both the Driver and Passenger door jam or the top of the wheel well opening (centered on the wheel). You will be looking for the Passenger side to be about 1/16” – 1/8” lower than the Drivers side. Adjust the passenger side sway bar link to accomplish this. Tighten the jam nuts and recheck.
thax alot guys,,,and a special thx for u Dan,,,i'm really glad that i bought this sway bar and my 6 point chromoly roll bar from u guys,,,really appreciate ur help
**All Sway Bar adjustments are done without the driver in the vehicle.**
Single Sway Bar: Check your tire pressure and ensure that each tire has the same pressure. Jack the front of your vehicle up until the front wheels just start to come off the ground. Ensure that the jack is dead center on the front cross member. Measure the lower corner of both the Driver and Passenger door jam or the top of the wheel well opening (centered on the wheel). You will be looking for the Passenger side to be about 1/16” – 1/8” lower than the Drivers side. Adjust the passenger side sway bar link to accomplish this. Tighten the jam nuts and recheck.
thax alot guys,,,and a special thx for u Dan,,,i'm really glad that i bought this sway bar and my 6 point chromoly roll bar from u guys,,,really appreciate ur help
is this the recommended way for all vehicles with the wolfe sway bar? a buddy of mine got a fox mustang with the wolfe sway bar on it, and the way he was told to set it was the "incorrect" way as earlier described...
guys this is what i got from the Great Dan,,,
**All Sway Bar adjustments are done without the driver in the vehicle.**
Single Sway Bar: Check your tire pressure and ensure that each tire has the same pressure. Jack the front of your vehicle up until the front wheels just start to come off the ground. Ensure that the jack is dead center on the front cross member. Measure the lower corner of both the Driver and Passenger door jam or the top of the wheel well opening (centered on the wheel). You will be looking for the Passenger side to be about 1/16” – 1/8” lower than the Drivers side. Adjust the passenger side sway bar link to accomplish this. Tighten the jam nuts and recheck.
thax alot guys,,,and a special thx for u Dan,,,i'm really glad that i bought this sway bar and my 6 point chromoly roll bar from u guys,,,really appreciate ur help
**All Sway Bar adjustments are done without the driver in the vehicle.**
Single Sway Bar: Check your tire pressure and ensure that each tire has the same pressure. Jack the front of your vehicle up until the front wheels just start to come off the ground. Ensure that the jack is dead center on the front cross member. Measure the lower corner of both the Driver and Passenger door jam or the top of the wheel well opening (centered on the wheel). You will be looking for the Passenger side to be about 1/16” – 1/8” lower than the Drivers side. Adjust the passenger side sway bar link to accomplish this. Tighten the jam nuts and recheck.
thax alot guys,,,and a special thx for u Dan,,,i'm really glad that i bought this sway bar and my 6 point chromoly roll bar from u guys,,,really appreciate ur help
It doesn't make the car harder to go up or down, it preloads the right rear tire, when you accelerate the rear end twists counter clock wise, which will push down on the left tire and try to lift the right, when that happens the car twists to the right side.
So what you are doing with an anti roll bar is connecting the rear end through rod ends and a bar/tube that's welded to the frame/body, when the car goes to move one side it is forced to apply force to the other side of the car, which equals out and removed the twist in the chassis.
You preload the right rear tire because this is the side that needs to have a little more leverage to keep the car at equal hight and apply equal force to both tires.
When you make the right side link short or longer it will either remove force from that tire or apply more.
When your car leaves and squats to one side you add preload to the right side until it leaves even.
So what you are doing with an anti roll bar is connecting the rear end through rod ends and a bar/tube that's welded to the frame/body, when the car goes to move one side it is forced to apply force to the other side of the car, which equals out and removed the twist in the chassis.
You preload the right rear tire because this is the side that needs to have a little more leverage to keep the car at equal hight and apply equal force to both tires.
When you make the right side link short or longer it will either remove force from that tire or apply more.
When your car leaves and squats to one side you add preload to the right side until it leaves even.
By preloading the anti-roll bar, you are making the passenger rear side of the car heavier (on a four point scale). I've been told and have seen Madman suggest setting your corner weights with the front coilovers making the passenger rear 10-20lbs heavier. THEN attach the anti-roll bar in a perfectly nuetral position setting.
Just what I've been told.
Just what I've been told.
