Grinding Calipers 101
12-12-2007, 10:33 AM
#62
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nice write up - with my old car i had prostars - a great way to check where you're having the clearance issues is to use paint like the thread starter said...
using a dark flat color will be best - flat paints dry quicker (in a couple minutes) so you can get right back at grinding if you need to. The dark color will make it very obvious to see where you're still rubbing.
my suggestion would be to use a rattle can primer, so if flat black isn't the color you want your calipers - just paint over it when you're done grinding.
using a dark flat color will be best - flat paints dry quicker (in a couple minutes) so you can get right back at grinding if you need to. The dark color will make it very obvious to see where you're still rubbing.
my suggestion would be to use a rattle can primer, so if flat black isn't the color you want your calipers - just paint over it when you're done grinding.
12-12-2007, 04:00 PM
#64
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i used a small mirror and got under the car to look at the clearance... alot harder than the paint method but it worked for me and i saw exactly what was hitting what
06-28-2008, 10:27 AM
#68
angle grinder, fiber type cutting wheel, and a good set of safety glasses/ear plugs
I would seriously cover the car while doing this, you're gonna have metal shavings everywhere and they'll get on the paint and scratch the car up if you're not careful
I would seriously cover the car while doing this, you're gonna have metal shavings everywhere and they'll get on the paint and scratch the car up if you're not careful
06-28-2008, 10:36 AM
#69
I'd get at least the stock size ARP studs, 12x1.5mm depending on the wheel and spacer/rim thickness you may be able to run the 2.5 lenth, but the 3.25 are definately long enough and can be cut down later if need be.
The studs are so the tech guy sees the stud pass thru the end of the open ended lug nut. The front ones are probably not needed, but put them on and the tech guys will never hassle you about it.
The ruls says the stud must protrude thru the rim the diameter of the stud, but if they see stud sticking out of the end of the lugnut, no questions will ever be asked.
The studs are so the tech guy sees the stud pass thru the end of the open ended lug nut. The front ones are probably not needed, but put them on and the tech guys will never hassle you about it.
The ruls says the stud must protrude thru the rim the diameter of the stud, but if they see stud sticking out of the end of the lugnut, no questions will ever be asked.
06-28-2008, 10:42 AM
#71
I'd get at least the stock size ARP studs, 12x1.5mm depending on the wheel and spacer/rim thickness you may be able to run the 2.5 lenth, but the 3.25 are definately long enough and can be cut down later if need be.
The studs are so the tech guy sees the stud pass thru the end of the open ended lug nut. The front ones are probably not needed, but put them on and the tech guys will never hassle you about it.
The ruls says the stud must protrude thru the rim the diameter of the stud, but if they see stud sticking out of the end of the lugnut, no questions will ever be asked.
The studs are so the tech guy sees the stud pass thru the end of the open ended lug nut. The front ones are probably not needed, but put them on and the tech guys will never hassle you about it.
The ruls says the stud must protrude thru the rim the diameter of the stud, but if they see stud sticking out of the end of the lugnut, no questions will ever be asked.
06-28-2008, 02:10 PM
#72
you'll need the front ones too due to the spacer and thickness of the rim flange. with the drag stars, the stock studs dont even reach the outside of the flange.
I also say go with the 3.25 and be done with it. cut them flush with the nut if you dont like them sticking out of the nuts.
I also say go with the 3.25 and be done with it. cut them flush with the nut if you dont like them sticking out of the nuts.
06-29-2008, 10:28 AM
#73
you'll need the front ones too due to the spacer and thickness of the rim flange. with the drag stars, the stock studs dont even reach the outside of the flange.
I also say go with the 3.25 and be done with it. cut them flush with the nut if you dont like them sticking out of the nuts.
I also say go with the 3.25 and be done with it. cut them flush with the nut if you dont like them sticking out of the nuts.
03-18-2009, 08:29 AM
#76
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Hey guys im gonna be doing this over the weekend and was wondering if I can use a 5/16ths spacer on the rear with the longer ARP wheel studs so I dont have to grind as much if any. The only thing holding me back is im not sure if running a spacer will snap an ARP stud. Thanks in advance.
03-18-2009, 06:08 PM
#77
Hey guys im gonna be doing this over the weekend and was wondering if I can use a 5/16ths spacer on the rear with the longer ARP wheel studs so I dont have to grind as much if any. The only thing holding me back is im not sure if running a spacer will snap an ARP stud. Thanks in advance.
04-14-2009, 05:32 PM
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Well I just finished grinding the driver rear for my 15x10 prostars.
******* GROUND THRU THE CALIPER!!!!!!! ground thru about 1/4 in" from the window in the middle of the caliper. Im still rubbing so it looks like lt1 calipers or strange brakes. Anyone think lt1 calipers will work for me? and whats involved for the rear swap?
I am running drilled and slotted rotors from WS6 store and forgot they were thicker than stock rotors and I have new pads in the rear S.O.B.
******* GROUND THRU THE CALIPER!!!!!!! ground thru about 1/4 in" from the window in the middle of the caliper. Im still rubbing so it looks like lt1 calipers or strange brakes. Anyone think lt1 calipers will work for me? and whats involved for the rear swap?
I am running drilled and slotted rotors from WS6 store and forgot they were thicker than stock rotors and I have new pads in the rear S.O.B.
04-20-2009, 12:53 PM
#79
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I a few hours of grinding on the driver side rear caliper and took alot of material off and they are close but it just dose not look to safe. Plus I have only like 5 mm left on the pads. I think im just gonna put the 5/16ths spacers on the rear as well so that I dont need to remove as much material.
07-06-2009, 07:49 PM
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im going to be doing this sat morning i have 15x10 draglites i was going to order my studs and lug nuts awhile i was wondering if the 2.5 inch long will work in the rear without spacers?...im using the 3 1/4 in the fornt but their expensive and was wondering if i could use the 2.5 and get away with them in the rear?...also i dont want to use a spacer in the rear and am going to gring my calipers is there any mods you have to do to the inner fender well?