SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"
#101
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
is there any reason you cant have the wastegates upside down, so they're "underneath" the pipes and out of the way?
#102
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Finished up the driver header last night, had to move the #7 runner for the 3rd time to clear the steering shaft, its got .250" clearance now. Also finished up the driver side control arm and started working on the steering. Shortened up the quick release for the steering wheel and tack'd that into place. The toe adjuster has got different threads than my steering rack and with the tap costing $40, I'll probably just cut off 5" and weld the correct grade 8 extension with the correct threads. I'm trying to have all of the steering/front suspension done this weekend.
#103
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Today was a pretty slow day. I got a few things knocked out today..
1) Finished up steering rack, had to cut off the ends and weld on the correct ones - steering is Done except for alignment
2) Finished fabrication on transmission mount. Changed it a couple times and ended up with two bolts on both sides
3) Fabricated a simple mount for the shifter
4) Machined spacers for fuel rail, fuel rail is DONE
5) Had to machine manifold to clear the ETP heads, manifold is DONE
6) Picked up all of the bolts today for the misc ****, IAC manifold, trans mount, seats, radiator mounts(not done)
7) Started working on the travel limiters and the brace for the front control arms.
My to-do list is getting very very short.
I still need to pick up my powerglide and order my Neal Chance converter which I'll probably do tomorrow.
Shifter trimmed and mounted
![](http://www.gvr4.com/phil97svt/IMG_0385.JPG)
Transmission mount - used two bolts on both sides to tie the frame together
![](http://www.gvr4.com/phil97svt/IMG_0386.JPG)
1) Finished up steering rack, had to cut off the ends and weld on the correct ones - steering is Done except for alignment
2) Finished fabrication on transmission mount. Changed it a couple times and ended up with two bolts on both sides
3) Fabricated a simple mount for the shifter
4) Machined spacers for fuel rail, fuel rail is DONE
5) Had to machine manifold to clear the ETP heads, manifold is DONE
6) Picked up all of the bolts today for the misc ****, IAC manifold, trans mount, seats, radiator mounts(not done)
7) Started working on the travel limiters and the brace for the front control arms.
My to-do list is getting very very short.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Shifter trimmed and mounted
Transmission mount - used two bolts on both sides to tie the frame together
Last edited by Phil99vette; 10-16-2007 at 09:53 PM.
#105
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Originally Posted by SilverGhost
holy **** man i feel like i'm watching something on discovery channel. awesome thread..
#108
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Monday progress:
This morning we worked on the water pump location for the intercooler system and got that nailed down, I'll fabricate the brackets either tomorrow or thursday. I ran all of the wiring for the BS3 and found a couple of nice locations for the ECU, the engine harness is awesome and fits like a glove. We also found a nice spot for the AMS1000 boost controller directly under where the factory radio would sit and infront of the shifter. I cut out the mounting panel for the Racepak dash, still need to cut out the spacers for the dash mount. The front travel limiters are done with the exception of welding the lower mounts onto the control arms which I'll setup for thursday. I also found a nice place for the fuel pressure regulator, it was somewhat tough due to the size but it fits nicely behind the brake master.
Parts:
- 5 - 1 7/8" u bends are here for the final wastegate plumbing, the exhaust will be sent out to get coated next week.
- Ordered a Neal Chance converter with a couple of stators for drag radials and slicks
- Thursday afternoon we're going to pick up a pretty big donation... Local business donated a Wayne Rogers/Deadenbear/Coan Powerglide built with every possible upgrade.
Working:
We need to look at the water pump situtation, either I need to have the factory one milled or switch to a remote style.
- Are two -12 lines sufficient for the LS1?
This morning we worked on the water pump location for the intercooler system and got that nailed down, I'll fabricate the brackets either tomorrow or thursday. I ran all of the wiring for the BS3 and found a couple of nice locations for the ECU, the engine harness is awesome and fits like a glove. We also found a nice spot for the AMS1000 boost controller directly under where the factory radio would sit and infront of the shifter. I cut out the mounting panel for the Racepak dash, still need to cut out the spacers for the dash mount. The front travel limiters are done with the exception of welding the lower mounts onto the control arms which I'll setup for thursday. I also found a nice place for the fuel pressure regulator, it was somewhat tough due to the size but it fits nicely behind the brake master.
Parts:
- 5 - 1 7/8" u bends are here for the final wastegate plumbing, the exhaust will be sent out to get coated next week.
- Ordered a Neal Chance converter with a couple of stators for drag radials and slicks
- Thursday afternoon we're going to pick up a pretty big donation... Local business donated a Wayne Rogers/Deadenbear/Coan Powerglide built with every possible upgrade.
Working:
We need to look at the water pump situtation, either I need to have the factory one milled or switch to a remote style.
- Are two -12 lines sufficient for the LS1?
#109
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Tuesday progress:
- Got the plate to mount the racepack in the dash almost done, I need to transfer it over to a fresh piece of aluminum
- Both seat mounts are done
- Driver side harness mounts are done
- U-bends arrived today so I'll finish up the wastegate mounts thursday
- Had header tubes flared @ main flange will finish welding thursday
- Got the plate to mount the racepack in the dash almost done, I need to transfer it over to a fresh piece of aluminum
- Both seat mounts are done
- Driver side harness mounts are done
- U-bends arrived today so I'll finish up the wastegate mounts thursday
- Had header tubes flared @ main flange will finish welding thursday
#111
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Only did an hour of welding today. Got the headers 100% done and the control arms basically done. I'm not sure if I am going to add a piece of plate between the control arm legs or not, any input is welcome there.
[img]hhttp://www.gvr4.com/phil97svt/IMG_0396.JPG[/img]
![](http://www.gvr4.com/phil97svt/IMG_0397.JPG)
[img]hhttp://www.gvr4.com/phil97svt/IMG_0396.JPG[/img]
Last edited by Phil99vette; 10-16-2007 at 09:54 PM.
#112
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I also picked up the powerglide this week, Marty Chance called and the converter shipped today. Here are some things that need to be addressed:
- Should I weld the -12 bungs directly to the motor plate or should I fab a flange that bolts to the motor plate
- Where is the best place to mount the PCM
- Should I add 1 5/8" CM bars to go to the front of the chassis.
- Should I weld the -12 bungs directly to the motor plate or should I fab a flange that bolts to the motor plate
- Where is the best place to mount the PCM
- Should I add 1 5/8" CM bars to go to the front of the chassis.
#113
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If you want, you can put a piece of 1" chromoly between the control arms to help strengthen them some for street driving.
I would weld the bungs directly to the motorplate so theres one less gasket to deal with.
Ide put the pcm inside under the dash.
Ide recommend running the bars through the firewall, tie them into the strut towers then drop them down onto the top of the frame rail.
Progress is looking great!
I would weld the bungs directly to the motorplate so theres one less gasket to deal with.
Ide put the pcm inside under the dash.
Ide recommend running the bars through the firewall, tie them into the strut towers then drop them down onto the top of the frame rail.
Progress is looking great!
#114
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Originally Posted by promod1955
If you want, you can put a piece of 1" chromoly between the control arms to help strengthen them some for street driving.
I would weld the bungs directly to the motorplate so theres one less gasket to deal with.
Ide put the pcm inside under the dash.
Ide recommend running the bars through the firewall, tie them into the strut towers then drop them down onto the top of the frame rail.
Progress is looking great!
I would weld the bungs directly to the motorplate so theres one less gasket to deal with.
Ide put the pcm inside under the dash.
Ide recommend running the bars through the firewall, tie them into the strut towers then drop them down onto the top of the frame rail.
Progress is looking great!
Phil
#115
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the tubing will be fine and lighter then say... .125 plate.
I dont know if im following you exactly when you say plating the bars. I'd go straight from the a pillar bar, through the firewall, then notch out the tower sheetmetal so the bar lays halfway through and weld it along the bar. Then turn it down and into the frame rail. Ide weld a small plate on the frame rail, then weld the bar to that. I hope thats a little clearer.
I gotta say, for a garage build your doing a realy good job. I wish I could get some people in my shop who do as good of work as you.
I dont know if im following you exactly when you say plating the bars. I'd go straight from the a pillar bar, through the firewall, then notch out the tower sheetmetal so the bar lays halfway through and weld it along the bar. Then turn it down and into the frame rail. Ide weld a small plate on the frame rail, then weld the bar to that. I hope thats a little clearer.
I gotta say, for a garage build your doing a realy good job. I wish I could get some people in my shop who do as good of work as you.
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#116
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nice work on the car. i would run the bars to the front. it is minimal amount of tubing and the car will be safe and legal for anything you ever throw at it.
i agree with running a peice of tubing to brace lower control arms.
i agree with running a peice of tubing to brace lower control arms.
#117
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Originally Posted by promod1955
I gotta say, for a garage build your doing a realy good job. I wish I could get some people in my shop who do as good of work as you.
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#119
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Originally Posted by promod1955
the tubing will be fine and lighter then say... .125 plate.
The tubing will reist bending better also. Plate is normally only good for something that will see one plane bending and not bending stresses from multiple directions.