SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"
09-22-2007, 01:20 AM
#121
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-12 line for the coolant is not enough. I have -12 line and it is very hard to keep the car cool and takes along time to cool it back down even with the electric pump and fans on.
09-22-2007, 08:10 AM
#122
Originally Posted by promod1955
the tubing will be fine and lighter then say... .125 plate.
I dont know if im following you exactly when you say plating the bars. I'd go straight from the a pillar bar, through the firewall, then notch out the tower sheetmetal so the bar lays halfway through and weld it along the bar. Then turn it down and into the frame rail. Ide weld a small plate on the frame rail, then weld the bar to that. I hope thats a little clearer.
I gotta say, for a garage build your doing a realy good job. I wish I could get some people in my shop who do as good of work as you.
I dont know if im following you exactly when you say plating the bars. I'd go straight from the a pillar bar, through the firewall, then notch out the tower sheetmetal so the bar lays halfway through and weld it along the bar. Then turn it down and into the frame rail. Ide weld a small plate on the frame rail, then weld the bar to that. I hope thats a little clearer.
I gotta say, for a garage build your doing a realy good job. I wish I could get some people in my shop who do as good of work as you.
Option 1: Plate both sides of the shock tower
you add a down bar from the front of your cage through the firewall to your shock tower and add a plate on the backside ending that tube. Another plate on the front of the shock tower would start the second tube down to the nose of the chassis.
Option 2: single bar both sides
Use a single bar and run it through the shock tower and to the nose of the frame rails.
09-22-2007, 08:13 AM
#123
Originally Posted by GueSS Who
-12 line for the coolant is not enough. I have -12 line and it is very hard to keep the car cool and takes along time to cool it back down even with the electric pump and fans on.
Phil
09-22-2007, 08:56 AM
#124
The Bull
IMO, Don't plate the towers. They're plenty fine just how they are. If you remove the sheetmetal fore and aft of the towers you should just run a bar from your main cage at about the dash bar level, through the firewall and into the towers. Don't go too deep into the towers because you're A-arms are right there under full compression. Then just land the bar on your frame rail. I'd suggest welding a 3"x3" plate to the frame rail for the bar to land on. If you're worried about strength, etc. that will take care of it.
As far as the radiator goes, we run -12 lines on Tom Kempf's car and it's fine for race only. If you're going to try and go on the street with it then you will want larger lines to handle more volume. Also, the 55GPM electric pumps move a lot less water than the factory pumps. To compensate you need to make up for the transfer in the radiator. For race only stuff you can get away with not having a lot tied up in a cooling system.
As far as the radiator goes, we run -12 lines on Tom Kempf's car and it's fine for race only. If you're going to try and go on the street with it then you will want larger lines to handle more volume. Also, the 55GPM electric pumps move a lot less water than the factory pumps. To compensate you need to make up for the transfer in the radiator. For race only stuff you can get away with not having a lot tied up in a cooling system.
09-23-2007, 07:15 AM
#128
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Thanks for the post, I went ahead and looked at the sizing of standard 1.5" && 1.75" hose vs -10,-12 and -16 and really even two -16s are smaller single 1.5".
09-23-2007, 08:06 AM
#129
Originally Posted by smoknta
There is a guy on another site that just got done using AN fittings on his cooling system, and he ran -20. It was very expensive to. Here is link if ya want to check it out: http://www.speeddensity.org/showpost...2&postcount=10
Phil,
I run -20an as my coolant hoses and they are working just fine...
They are a lil spendy.. about $50 a fitting and $25 a FT for the hose and 6 ft at least has to be bought......
Kyle
09-23-2007, 03:54 PM
#131
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Phil,
I run -20an as my coolant hoses and they are working just fine...
They are a lil spendy.. about $50 a fitting and $25 a FT for the hose and 6 ft at least has to be bought......
Kyle
I run -20an as my coolant hoses and they are working just fine...
They are a lil spendy.. about $50 a fitting and $25 a FT for the hose and 6 ft at least has to be bought......
Kyle
Thanks for the info on your car. I was thinking about running just dual -16s everywhere. They are 1" ID and two -16s will hold more volume than a standard -20. I can get the -16s for about $15 each while the -20s are $50-75.
Phil
09-23-2007, 04:03 PM
#132
Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Kyle,
Thanks for the info on your car. I was thinking about running just dual -16s everywhere. They are 1" ID and two -16s will hold more volume than a standard -20. I can get the -16s for about $15 each while the -20s are $50-75.
Phil
Thanks for the info on your car. I was thinking about running just dual -16s everywhere. They are 1" ID and two -16s will hold more volume than a standard -20. I can get the -16s for about $15 each while the -20s are $50-75.
Phil
Yeah your telling me LOL
I wont be using braided hose for my A2W Intercooler...
Rad hose with slip fittings..... will work just fine.... no need to waste $$$ there when it will get the Job done....
Kyle
09-23-2007, 06:57 PM
#133
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Yeah your telling me LOL
I wont be using braided hose for my A2W Intercooler...
Rad hose with slip fittings..... will work just fine.... no need to waste $$$ there when it will get the Job done....
Kyle
I wont be using braided hose for my A2W Intercooler...
Rad hose with slip fittings..... will work just fine.... no need to waste $$$ there when it will get the Job done....
Kyle
Last edited by Phil99vette; 09-23-2007 at 07:04 PM.
09-23-2007, 06:57 PM
#134
My buddy brian came over today to help me get a few small projects knocked out. Here's what we got done:
New Powerglide in car, panels are clearanced
Shifter + linkage is setup - done
Transmount is done
Remote cutoff switch mounted + guide bar done
Front A-Arms - brace + final welding/fitment
Travel limiters adjusted for 2.5" travel short side 4" long side
Clearanced for coilovers
water pump for IC is ready to go in once I get some more steel
Pulled fenders, my dad is going to pick them up to start the body work
New Powerglide in car, panels are clearanced
Shifter + linkage is setup - done
Transmount is done
Remote cutoff switch mounted + guide bar done
Front A-Arms - brace + final welding/fitment
Travel limiters adjusted for 2.5" travel short side 4" long side
Clearanced for coilovers
water pump for IC is ready to go in once I get some more steel
Pulled fenders, my dad is going to pick them up to start the body work
Last edited by Phil99vette; 10-16-2007 at 09:55 PM.
09-25-2007, 11:57 AM
#135
Got some more stuff on the way.
1/8" steel plate for the nose bars and harness mounts
-16 aluminum bungs(6)
-16 fittings from summit, they were cheaper than the -12 push lock
Meziere 337S water pump(55gpm dual -16 outlets single 1 3/4" inlet)
-16 to -16 o-ring fittings
What do you guys use for the tin work inside the car? We need to start on the rear of the car and working on firewall blockoff plates.
Phil
1/8" steel plate for the nose bars and harness mounts
-16 aluminum bungs(6)
-16 fittings from summit, they were cheaper than the -12 push lock
Meziere 337S water pump(55gpm dual -16 outlets single 1 3/4" inlet)
-16 to -16 o-ring fittings
What do you guys use for the tin work inside the car? We need to start on the rear of the car and working on firewall blockoff plates.
Phil
09-26-2007, 11:17 AM
#137
Yesterday we picked up:
25' of Brake line + clips
Chance converter arrived
I need to decide on final color for the cage and car. I'm open to suggestions, orginally I was leaning towards a
black cherry with a dark metallic silver on the cage
Black with a dark metallic silver on the cage
Dark metallic silver on the car and a black cage
25' of Brake line + clips
Chance converter arrived
I need to decide on final color for the cage and car. I'm open to suggestions, orginally I was leaning towards a
black cherry with a dark metallic silver on the cage
Black with a dark metallic silver on the cage
Dark metallic silver on the car and a black cage
