ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

I'm trying to figure out how to get my 60' way down. My best to date is a 1.90. I'm running 245 Nitto Drag Radials, BMR Torque Arm, BMR Rear Lower Control Arms and relocation brackets, Moser 12-bolt with 4.10's. The car is a cam only making around 400 to the wheels.

I do a good burnout, bring the R's to around 4000 and try to hit the gas as I'm letting up on the clutch and it bogs alot of the time. Once in a while I bring it to 5000+ and then it spins.

How are you guys doing it? What setup's are you running? What technique do you use?

I'm sick of losing off the line and always trying to chase cars down, lol.

Thanks!

shocker45

i have a very simliar setup to yours, your first problem is your nitto's. not a great tire.

i ran a 1.75 60 ft on my bfg dr's, any quicker they would break loose.

got frustrated, now i have a set of 26x10.5x16" Mickey thompson ET Streets. not the radial, the slick

and a new clutch, so ill let you know how i do this weekend, im hoping for a 1.60

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I was debating over an ET Street slick or MT radials. I also need a new clutch. I had a SPEC 3 and it burned up in 10,000 miles. I got the Spec 3+ and it's done after 3500 miles. I'll probably get another Spec 3+ and hope it was a faulty one the first time. I can still race from 1st through 4th as of now, but in 5th and 6th gear if I give it gas the clutch just slips. I'll have to get a new clutch before the new tires.

Definitely let me know how you do!

shocker45

SPEC 3+ burnt up in 3500 miles?

thats what i just put in my car. i hope it doesnt do that, i put about 600 miles on it so far, and so far its really good, not to stiff. im very happy with it

but 3500 miles is really low. change it once a summer

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

I'm hoping that it was a fluke and the next one lasts longer.

N20Dave

iTrader: (7)

9", 4.30's, LCA's @ 4* up, Spohn TQ -3* down, QA1's 2 in front, 4 in rear, Street Twin, 28x13.50 QTP's and a 2.97 first gear in the T56 (G-Force)
I Launch at 7000 off the two step and it goes 1.5x's 60'
Need to have enough power to carry the weight transfer without bogging though.

I would think you should be able to get into the low 1.80's, high 1.70's with a fairly stock motor with bolt-ons and 1.60's with deeper mods, cam, etc...

There's a fine line between bogging and spinning, that's why I say you have to have the power. That way you can put a bigger tire on it and it has the power to turn them slightly at lauch without bogging. You never want it to dead hook. It will always work better with turning the tire slightly.

The nittos are killing you.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Ron you need a bias ply slick on a 15 inch rim... anything less is not going to get you the results you want.


Once you get a real tire on the car then you can start flogging it... get the rpm's up to 5500+ and just dump that clutch. I guarintee that the clutch will last about 10 times longer doing that then trying to ride it out like you have to in order to hold traction with the nitto.. that's probably 1/2 of the reason the clutch isn't lasting. Use it like an on/off switch, and the thing will last a long time. it's the slip that kills them.

I know smokin01ta used to launch his car at 7200 rpm, and sidestep the thing with a 28x10.5S et drag, and 60 foot in the 1.3x You're not gonna do that at your weight/power level, but to go fast, that's the type of launch it's gonna take.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I'm thinking slicks are needed. I'm thinking about the 17 inch slicks. Some people talk badly about them but I've seen a new mustang with bolt-ons, a centrifugal blower and a 5 speed pull 1.5 60's times with those.