What vacuum pump setup are you using?
But if whatever I do is gonna take machining, why don't I just buy a mandrel and have it fitted to my current ASP pulley? I shouldn't have to swap to a whole other balancer. Am I right?
It'll be simple, buy the pump, pulley, bracket from Star, lines, fittings, and breather tank from local speed shop, and the mandrel from wherever. So now I just need to figure out what bolt pattern my ASP balancer has. It has 3 bolt holes on the front of it.
You also have to make sure you have enough material inside the balancer before the bolt for the rear of the mandrel to center it.
Also if the 3 hole mounting surface is recessed behind the face measure to see how deep the the mounting surface is to make sure you get a mandrel that extends far enough out of the ASP pulley to be able to mount the drive pulley on it.
I looked on Star's website and they don't even offer a 12 or 14 tooth pulley. The biggest one they have is 18. Also, I thought the standard pump has a built in regulator in it, so why would you need to have multiple pulleys if its going to be adjusted with the regulator?
the reason for the 2 is to limit the pumps rpm for a set amount of vacuum. I also ordered it by accident so thats really the reason.
depending on how you mount the pump you can set the depth with the mounts if not then you can always set the pulley depth with spacers on the mandrel.
Last edited by ALLBOTTLE; Oct 3, 2007 at 05:07 PM.
Ok, the drive pulley that goes on the mandrel won't spin because its got a key on it. But how do you secure it down so that it doesn't move back and forth?
Did either one (mandrel/drive pulley) need machining or did it bolt right up to your balancer? Which one do you have by the way?
Thats the other reason you need some spacers/shims/sleeves to lock the pulley in place between the base and the front nut.
Yes i purchased all my mandrel parts from jones.
I have DH-8101-WC-BB mandrel, Go with a 12 tooth pulley for your pump if you are using the billet assembly.
I just checked my pulleys they are 12 tooth and 14 tooth not 22 and 24.
no idea, i just needed to order a bunch of stuff.
they built me a custom ls1 setup for a meziere race pump, no tensioner with everything for cheap ....GREAT product.im very happy
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Star-
Standard vacuum pump
36 tooth aluminum pump pulley
Rear mounting bracket
16 tooth crank pulley
Accessory drive mandrel
Regulator valve assembly
AN fittings
When I receive the parts, I'll be able to determine if I'll be able to make the mandrel work with my crank pulley or not. If not, then he said that I could send it back. I work at a machine shop for a big oil company where there are several manual and CNC machines. So having something modified won't be a problem. Even if I have to purchase the ATI balancer, I guess I will.
Once I have everything where I want it and bolted up, then I'll be able to determine what length I need.
Fireball, what kind of rpms will you be spinning?
For someone who has access to such machines, you are making a big deal out out of a small problem. Do you actually use these machines or just go down on the people that do? Keep pushing that broom.
Tim
I have access to a 1948 craftsman lathe ( not CNC, just so we are on the same page) that I have never used before and am not at least bit worried about modifying a mandrel to fit a LSx ballancer.
Being how I am not a broom pusher. How long would it take to set up and program a CNC lathe to take a few thousands off of a piece of round aluminum stock. My guess you would still be staring at the screen and all of those buttons when someone would realize they didn't hear the methodical sounds of a broom hitting the floor and tell you to get back to work.
and
! You are providing no help, just bumping those gums of yours. I'm not gonna stoop to your level to have this little keyboard war with you. Its gay, like you. I gotta get back to pushing my broom. Phil99vette, damn, you've got remote everything, lol.
Just curious from looking at Phil99vette's pic, do I necessarily have to pull the vacuum off the valve covers or can it be pulled from the valley cover? If so, then I could cut down that nipple, fill it in with weld, then weld a bung on it.
Speaking of fuel lines, how do you plan on routing your fuel line up at the engine?


