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What vacuum pump setup are you using?

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Old 10-05-2007, 12:38 PM
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.ALEX., you say male, but does it matter? I'm not doubting you, just wondering. Either way, there's going to be a connection between the valley and hose. If I use a male on the hose, then obviously I would need a female on the valley and vice versa.

Phil99vette, I agree with you that it would be more balanced pulling from the valley.

I was referring to your fuel.

I'm not really understanding what you guys are talking about on the baffles. Got any pics? What will happen if you don't use these baffles?

Will it damage the pump if it does get oil in it?

I'm using the GMPP valve covers by the way, the ones that a lot people are using.

Here, to make it easier:

Old 10-05-2007, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
.ALEX., you say male, but does it matter? I'm not doubting you, just wondering. Either way, there's going to be a connection between the valley and hose. If I use a male on the hose, then obviously I would need a female on the valley and vice versa.

Phil99vette, I agree with you that it would be more balanced pulling from the valley.

I was referring to your fuel.

I'm not really understanding what you guys are talking about on the baffles. Got any pics? What will happen if you don't use these baffles?

Will it damage the pump if it does get oil in it?

I'm using the GMPP valve covers by the way, the ones that a lot people are using.

Here, to make it easier:


your motor looks good

I've never seen a male AN hose fitting have you? they are always female on the hose and male on the connections.

they sell AN couplers but that would just make it an extra piece to buy for no reason.

When i talked to Star they said the pump does need some oil for internal lubrication.
Old 10-05-2007, 12:57 PM
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I was referring to your fuel.
I'm using a big *** aeromotive that won't really fit anywhere. I'll probably use something right on the regulator.

I'm not really understanding what you guys are talking about on the baffles. Got any pics? What will happen if you don't use these baffles?

Will it damage the pump if it does get oil in it?
No, just reduced vacuum. The oil prevents the blades from coming out and that whats makes the vacuum.

I'm using the GMPP valve covers by the way, the ones that a lot people are using.

WOW!


Old 10-05-2007, 01:07 PM
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same valve covers i have.

the set is like $200 on jegs, i ordered 2 without fill caps, i was planning to just remove the vacuum line and pour the oil down the funnel into the fitting.

i'll do the same if i use the valley cover connection.
Old 10-05-2007, 02:33 PM
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I think a female weld-on AN bung would look better, but I have to find a male fitting that goes onto the hose first. I mean...if they make a female bung, then someone has to make the male portion. If I can't find it, then I can always use a male.

Does it matter how far forward or backward the bung needs to be position on the valley cover? I may not have enough room in front of the bracing, so I may have to put it behind it. Look at the pic I posted above, you'll see it sitting on the valley cover bewteen the bottom bases of the intake.
Old 10-05-2007, 03:52 PM
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my pump came in today (nice only being 45 miles from Star). Its an absolute work of art!
Old 10-05-2007, 10:30 PM
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.

Here's the hose ends we use on dry sumps & vacuum pumps, IF I can make the links work that is. I love them, makes a tighter fit & fits in the diaper better. Sounds perfect for what you asked.

http://www.russellperformance.com/au...ivel-dry.shtml

.
Old 10-05-2007, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
.

Here's the hose ends we use on dry sumps & vacuum pumps, IF I can make the links work that is. I love them, makes a tighter fit & fits in the diaper better. Sounds perfect for what you asked.

http://www.russellperformance.com/au...ivel-dry.shtml

.
cool, i had seen those in npt but never in an sizes.

a bit off topic but who made the diaper for you? i want to get one before i show up to the track and i get turned away for not having one.
Old 10-06-2007, 10:29 PM
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I am using the kit that Rehrer Morrison sells for like 900 bucks. Comes with everything you need including the 12AN line to plumb the system, puke tank, regulator, belts, pulley, drive mandrel with spacers, pump, etc.... It was cheaper than sourcing all the parts seperately....

here's a pic mounted onto a bracket that my engine builder fabbed...

Old 10-15-2007, 05:38 PM
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Phil99vette, .ALEX., & Fireball, which ATI balancer do ya'll have? Part number? I want to make sure I order the right one. I found one without the a/c pulley on it, part number 917277. I just want to make sure I order the right one.
Old 10-15-2007, 05:46 PM
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you can order it in aluminum or steel hub, i honeslty don't know which one i got, it was ordered by the engine builder. Ill check when i get home.
Old 10-15-2007, 09:43 PM
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Im going to go ahead and throw another question in the mix. If say one were to use a 5 or 6 stage dry sump pump couldnt you use one of the stages for vacuum?
Old 10-15-2007, 10:40 PM
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the pump should be able to pull enough vaccum,

From talking to the guys at Dailey and Aviaid If this is for a lsx motor you don't need more than a 3 stage for drag racing 1 pressure 2 scavenge, 4 if it's a road race car.
Old 10-16-2007, 06:14 AM
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pretty sure I have the 917238 (steel hub and aluminum shell)

it has the 60% UD where the AC was in case I ever go dry sump. I'm not using that pulley right now.
Old 10-16-2007, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
pretty sure I have the 917238 (steel hub and aluminum shell)

it has the 60% UD where the AC was in case I ever go dry sump. I'm not using that pulley right now.
Please tell me I didn't order the wrong one?
Old 10-16-2007, 06:29 AM
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Straight from ATI's website:

Part# 917277

6.8" OD

Aluminum shell

Total weight 4.5 lbs.

10% underdrive no a/c pulley

Hubs are made of heat-treated alloy steel.

Contains 40 durometer rubber. Not for full race engines. Ask for technical help or specify 66 rubber.

I'm not understanding the last detal. What is that about?

Also, the part number I ordered fell under serpentine balancers, not race. What's the difference?
Old 10-16-2007, 06:41 AM
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I wouldn't run the 40 durometer rubber balancer on a high rpm engine...but thats just me...all of their "underdrive" balancers had that listed so I went with a std balancer. I do have an ASP overdrived alt pulley so I'm not that concerned going with a std diameter balancer
Old 10-16-2007, 06:50 AM
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What's the difference betwee the 40 and 66 durometer rubber? I don't even know what they're referring to. Do you consider 7500 rpms high? The only thing I have for accessories is crank, alternator, then I'll have a mandrel on the crank for the vacuum pump. What kind of harm could I have/cause with the 40 as opposed to the 60?
Old 10-16-2007, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
What's the difference betwee the 40 and 66 durometer rubber? I don't even know what they're referring to. Do you consider 7500 rpms high? The only thing I have for accessories is crank, alternator, then I'll have a mandrel on the crank for the vacuum pump. What kind of harm could I have/cause with the 40 as opposed to the 60?
the lower the number, the softer the rubber. its not the accessories you drive, its the harmonics associated with higher rpm. I don't know enough about ATI balancer design to comment on the harm it could cause running the 40 vs the 66...
Old 10-16-2007, 08:56 AM
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If it's not one thing, it's another. Ok...say you can't speak for the ATI's, but what could go wrong/happen if I had softer rubbers inside the balancer spinning 7500 rpms, making roughly 750 to the motor?


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