What vacuum pump setup are you using?
Thread Starter
9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
.ALEX., you say male, but does it matter? I'm not doubting you, just wondering. Either way, there's going to be a connection between the valley and hose. If I use a male on the hose, then obviously I would need a female on the valley and vice versa.
Phil99vette, I agree with you that it would be more balanced pulling from the valley.
I was referring to your fuel.
I'm not really understanding what you guys are talking about on the baffles. Got any pics? What will happen if you don't use these baffles?
Will it damage the pump if it does get oil in it?
I'm using the GMPP valve covers by the way, the ones that a lot people are using.
Here, to make it easier:
Phil99vette, I agree with you that it would be more balanced pulling from the valley.
I was referring to your fuel.
I'm not really understanding what you guys are talking about on the baffles. Got any pics? What will happen if you don't use these baffles?
Will it damage the pump if it does get oil in it?
I'm using the GMPP valve covers by the way, the ones that a lot people are using.
Here, to make it easier:
.ALEX., you say male, but does it matter? I'm not doubting you, just wondering. Either way, there's going to be a connection between the valley and hose. If I use a male on the hose, then obviously I would need a female on the valley and vice versa.
Phil99vette, I agree with you that it would be more balanced pulling from the valley.
I was referring to your fuel.
I'm not really understanding what you guys are talking about on the baffles. Got any pics? What will happen if you don't use these baffles?
Will it damage the pump if it does get oil in it?
I'm using the GMPP valve covers by the way, the ones that a lot people are using.
Here, to make it easier:
Phil99vette, I agree with you that it would be more balanced pulling from the valley.
I was referring to your fuel.
I'm not really understanding what you guys are talking about on the baffles. Got any pics? What will happen if you don't use these baffles?
Will it damage the pump if it does get oil in it?
I'm using the GMPP valve covers by the way, the ones that a lot people are using.
Here, to make it easier:
your motor looks good
I've never seen a male AN hose fitting have you? they are always female on the hose and male on the connections.
they sell AN couplers but that would just make it an extra piece to buy for no reason.
When i talked to Star they said the pump does need some oil for internal lubrication.
I was referring to your fuel.
I'm using a big *** aeromotive that won't really fit anywhere. I'll probably use something right on the regulator.
I'm not really understanding what you guys are talking about on the baffles. Got any pics? What will happen if you don't use these baffles?
Will it damage the pump if it does get oil in it?
No, just reduced vacuum. The oil prevents the blades from coming out and that whats makes the vacuum.
I'm using the GMPP valve covers by the way, the ones that a lot people are using.
WOW!
I'm using a big *** aeromotive that won't really fit anywhere. I'll probably use something right on the regulator.
I'm not really understanding what you guys are talking about on the baffles. Got any pics? What will happen if you don't use these baffles?
Will it damage the pump if it does get oil in it?
No, just reduced vacuum. The oil prevents the blades from coming out and that whats makes the vacuum.
I'm using the GMPP valve covers by the way, the ones that a lot people are using.
WOW!
same valve covers i have.
the set is like $200 on jegs, i ordered 2 without fill caps, i was planning to just remove the vacuum line and pour the oil down the funnel into the fitting.
i'll do the same if i use the valley cover connection.
the set is like $200 on jegs, i ordered 2 without fill caps, i was planning to just remove the vacuum line and pour the oil down the funnel into the fitting.
i'll do the same if i use the valley cover connection.
Thread Starter
9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
I think a female weld-on AN bung would look better, but I have to find a male fitting that goes onto the hose first. I mean...if they make a female bung, then someone has to make the male portion. If I can't find it, then I can always use a male.
Does it matter how far forward or backward the bung needs to be position on the valley cover? I may not have enough room in front of the bracing, so I may have to put it behind it. Look at the pic I posted above, you'll see it sitting on the valley cover bewteen the bottom bases of the intake.
Does it matter how far forward or backward the bung needs to be position on the valley cover? I may not have enough room in front of the bracing, so I may have to put it behind it. Look at the pic I posted above, you'll see it sitting on the valley cover bewteen the bottom bases of the intake.
6 & 8 Second Club
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From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
.
Here's the hose ends we use on dry sumps & vacuum pumps, IF I can make the links work that is. I love them, makes a tighter fit & fits in the diaper better. Sounds perfect for what you asked.
http://www.russellperformance.com/au...ivel-dry.shtml
.
Here's the hose ends we use on dry sumps & vacuum pumps, IF I can make the links work that is. I love them, makes a tighter fit & fits in the diaper better. Sounds perfect for what you asked.
http://www.russellperformance.com/au...ivel-dry.shtml
.
.
Here's the hose ends we use on dry sumps & vacuum pumps, IF I can make the links work that is. I love them, makes a tighter fit & fits in the diaper better. Sounds perfect for what you asked.
http://www.russellperformance.com/au...ivel-dry.shtml
.
Here's the hose ends we use on dry sumps & vacuum pumps, IF I can make the links work that is. I love them, makes a tighter fit & fits in the diaper better. Sounds perfect for what you asked.
http://www.russellperformance.com/au...ivel-dry.shtml
.
a bit off topic but who made the diaper for you? i want to get one before i show up to the track and i get turned away for not having one.
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I am using the kit that Rehrer Morrison sells for like 900 bucks. Comes with everything you need including the 12AN line to plumb the system, puke tank, regulator, belts, pulley, drive mandrel with spacers, pump, etc.... It was cheaper than sourcing all the parts seperately....
here's a pic mounted onto a bracket that my engine builder fabbed...
here's a pic mounted onto a bracket that my engine builder fabbed...
Thread Starter
9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
Phil99vette, .ALEX., & Fireball, which ATI balancer do ya'll have? Part number? I want to make sure I order the right one. I found one without the a/c pulley on it, part number 917277. I just want to make sure I order the right one.
the pump should be able to pull enough vaccum,
From talking to the guys at Dailey and Aviaid If this is for a lsx motor you don't need more than a 3 stage for drag racing 1 pressure 2 scavenge, 4 if it's a road race car.
From talking to the guys at Dailey and Aviaid If this is for a lsx motor you don't need more than a 3 stage for drag racing 1 pressure 2 scavenge, 4 if it's a road race car.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
pretty sure I have the 917238 (steel hub and aluminum shell)
it has the 60% UD where the AC was in case I ever go dry sump. I'm not using that pulley right now.
it has the 60% UD where the AC was in case I ever go dry sump. I'm not using that pulley right now.
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From: Houston, TX
Thread Starter
9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
Straight from ATI's website:
Part# 917277
6.8" OD
Aluminum shell
Total weight 4.5 lbs.
10% underdrive no a/c pulley
Hubs are made of heat-treated alloy steel.
Contains 40 durometer rubber. Not for full race engines. Ask for technical help or specify 66 rubber.
I'm not understanding the last detal. What is that about?
Also, the part number I ordered fell under serpentine balancers, not race. What's the difference?
Part# 917277
6.8" OD
Aluminum shell
Total weight 4.5 lbs.
10% underdrive no a/c pulley
Hubs are made of heat-treated alloy steel.
Contains 40 durometer rubber. Not for full race engines. Ask for technical help or specify 66 rubber.
I'm not understanding the last detal. What is that about?
Also, the part number I ordered fell under serpentine balancers, not race. What's the difference?
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
I wouldn't run the 40 durometer rubber balancer on a high rpm engine...but thats just me...all of their "underdrive" balancers had that listed so I went with a std balancer. I do have an ASP overdrived alt pulley so I'm not that concerned going with a std diameter balancer
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From: Houston, TX
What's the difference betwee the 40 and 66 durometer rubber? I don't even know what they're referring to. Do you consider 7500 rpms high? The only thing I have for accessories is crank, alternator, then I'll have a mandrel on the crank for the vacuum pump. What kind of harm could I have/cause with the 40 as opposed to the 60?
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
What's the difference betwee the 40 and 66 durometer rubber? I don't even know what they're referring to. Do you consider 7500 rpms high? The only thing I have for accessories is crank, alternator, then I'll have a mandrel on the crank for the vacuum pump. What kind of harm could I have/cause with the 40 as opposed to the 60?
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From: Houston, TX
If it's not one thing, it's another. 
Ok...say you can't speak for the ATI's, but what could go wrong/happen if I had softer rubbers inside the balancer spinning 7500 rpms, making roughly 750 to the motor?