Battery Relocation + Cutoff questions
I like the wiring diagram that (SScam68) uses on his car, clean design. I also would like to know if the fuse goes on the alternator wire and how big is the in-line fuse (IE: 200 amp, 250 amp, etc. ?? )
I did this 
High Amp Alternator Shut Down Relay Kit
P/N - 764-50105
This kit, comes complete with 250 amp solenoid and two 10' sections of 8 gauge wire, will effectively handle alternator feedback of the highest amperage alternators. Eliminates engine run-on when the master disconnect is turned off.
High Amp Alternator Shut Down Relay Kit
P/N - 764-50105
This kit, comes complete with 250 amp solenoid and two 10' sections of 8 gauge wire, will effectively handle alternator feedback of the highest amperage alternators. Eliminates engine run-on when the master disconnect is turned off.
so we would make a pull on the dyno than we shut the car off to tune go start it and it wouldnt start due to the injectors not having enough power.
so i had to eliminate it
Main cable to starter has to be big because of the big amp draw, but to charge the battery from the alternator unless you are running a 5000 watt sound system 8 gauge is fine 
The alternator would run to the side of the cut off switch so no power is running to the battery when it is in the off position.
The alternator would run to the side of the cut off switch so no power is running to the battery when it is in the off position.
Exactly Phil, you run the alternator wire to the battery itself, then you run the big cable from the battery to the switch (off side), then the side that gets power when you turn it on you run your wires to your fuel pumps and cooler pumps, run a long big cable under the car to the starter, then you can run a smaller power cable from the starter to a power distribution block under the dash, then hook up everything else up to relays and send the main wire loom pack out to the engine compartment.
So no matter what once you hit the switch off, even if the alternator is powering the battery, the other now off side will see no kind of electrical charge and it kills everything.
Cheap drawing lol don't laugh it gives you the point.
Also it is nice to have a big button next to the shifter you can just push that will kill everything at once so you're not looking for switches if you know you're about to kiss the wall lol.
So no matter what once you hit the switch off, even if the alternator is powering the battery, the other now off side will see no kind of electrical charge and it kills everything.
Cheap drawing lol don't laugh it gives you the point.
Also it is nice to have a big button next to the shifter you can just push that will kill everything at once so you're not looking for switches if you know you're about to kiss the wall lol.
Last edited by RAGENZ28; May 6, 2008 at 12:33 AM.
Thanks guys for your help! I talked to a tech from Thunder Racing and he recommended 6 ga. But I will like to save on weight but be safe.
So let me get this right:
8 ga. from Alternator direct to battery will work fine????
I have 2 ga. running to a distrubution block up front and then 6 ga. for starter and Acc. post.
Thanks again!!!
So let me get this right:
8 ga. from Alternator direct to battery will work fine????
I have 2 ga. running to a distrubution block up front and then 6 ga. for starter and Acc. post.
Thanks again!!!
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Verdad Gallardo If there are any doubts you can always test the amps at the battery and see how much you're actually getting.
As far as the 2ga, then 6ga to the starter, I just run one 2ga to the starter, I would run the 6ga wire from the starter to the distribution box if you went smaller. That starter needs a full size cable from battery to the starter, on mine I went 2ga to starter and 4ga to in-car kill switch, then 4 ga to my distribution box, then used the appropriate size wires from there.
I also put all my stuff on separate relays, fans, water pump, fuel pump 1, fuel pump 2, n20, lights, ign, that way the switch panel doesn't take the hit and it is only used to turn on and off and the relays which are made to take the current gets the abuse.
As far as the 2ga, then 6ga to the starter, I just run one 2ga to the starter, I would run the 6ga wire from the starter to the distribution box if you went smaller. That starter needs a full size cable from battery to the starter, on mine I went 2ga to starter and 4ga to in-car kill switch, then 4 ga to my distribution box, then used the appropriate size wires from there.
I also put all my stuff on separate relays, fans, water pump, fuel pump 1, fuel pump 2, n20, lights, ign, that way the switch panel doesn't take the hit and it is only used to turn on and off and the relays which are made to take the current gets the abuse.
Last edited by RAGENZ28; May 7, 2008 at 12:53 PM.
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
here you go. also the battery box is not legal were it is in the pic at most tracks that check. i now have mine in a sealed box were the t-tops used to go
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From: sneaking in your back door as you leave!/cartersville ga
dont mind the black tape around the terminal. electricity scares the snot out of me. i sauter every connection and then use heat shrink tubing on everything and approx. 3 lbs 
of electrical tape on top of the shrink tubing on every connector
of electrical tape on top of the shrink tubing on every connector 