Mini Tubbing
When you put in a full tub, the only thing around it is the outer body skin, which in a drag car will slightly flex, over time if you tack welded the tub to the outer body the tacks would break.
So you weld a full tub to the frame and brackets and leave the outer edge that meets the body and use silicone there.
A mini tub you can weld the tub to the frame and inside of the 1/2 of the factory tub left, since it isn't going to flex.
Here are two photos you can see the difference in metal with a mini tub there is still a lot of the factory structure and with a full tub it's a tin can with screws LOL.
Also mine are not welded mine are aluminum but even in steel you don't weld in a full tub to the outer body.
GTG TTL..
OK, it just seems wierd to think the tub is not solidly connected to the outer fender. So would the silicone maintain a good seal and keep out water and noise? I'm thinking that a little flex might break the silicone seal.
Tack welds don't like to flex, but keep in mind this flexing is very small, it's not like your body panel is going to be moving back and forth 1/2" or something.
You cut out all of that material and use a full tub it is going to flex slightly.
I cut mine all apart, it's sitting in the garage, my buddy is making a twin turbo SBC in a 2600 pound nova, pre-turbo weight so I had to step mine up =)
Bad thing is he has the money and is buying the parts and I don't. Car looks like my icon.
As far as doing the mini tubs it's a fun project and you can fit a nice size tire and lower the car a bit for a nice look, but then again I like building and tearing stuff apart.
Bad thing is he has the money and is buying the parts and I don't. Car looks like my icon.
As far as doing the mini tubs it's a fun project and you can fit a nice size tire and lower the car a bit for a nice look, but then again I like building and tearing stuff apart.
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12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 3
From: Edmond, OK
need some opinions. im building an extremely lightweight strip car stock internal bolt-on car
ive cut out the sheet metal that holds the rear sail speakers. there is a bracket that looks like its for structural integrity. im not tubbing or putting a cage in my car
could i cut that bracket and still have good structural integrity to launch a 350RWHP car without wrinkling my exterior fenders???
so far, i was told not to cut it unless i plan to cage. want more opinions
ive cut out the sheet metal that holds the rear sail speakers. there is a bracket that looks like its for structural integrity. im not tubbing or putting a cage in my car
could i cut that bracket and still have good structural integrity to launch a 350RWHP car without wrinkling my exterior fenders???
so far, i was told not to cut it unless i plan to cage. want more opinions
need some opinions. im building an extremely lightweight strip car stock internal bolt-on car
ive cut out the sheet metal that holds the rear sail speakers. there is a bracket that looks like its for structural integrity. im not tubbing or putting a cage in my car
could i cut that bracket and still have good structural integrity to launch a 350RWHP car without wrinkling my exterior fenders???
so far, i was told not to cut it unless i plan to cage. want more opinions
ive cut out the sheet metal that holds the rear sail speakers. there is a bracket that looks like its for structural integrity. im not tubbing or putting a cage in my car
could i cut that bracket and still have good structural integrity to launch a 350RWHP car without wrinkling my exterior fenders???
so far, i was told not to cut it unless i plan to cage. want more opinions
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 3
From: Edmond, OK
dont have a working cam at the moment but i will try and describe it to the best of my ability. piece looks like it adds structural integrity. starts at the top of the factory tub and runs up to the roof area of the car. right behind sail panel sheet metal. piece im talking about also has the door striker attached
dont have a working cam at the moment but i will try and describe it to the best of my ability. piece looks like it adds structural integrity. starts at the top of the factory tub and runs up to the roof area of the car. right behind sail panel sheet metal. piece im talking about also has the door striker attached
I would not cut that out no. That is part of the cars structural rigidity.
If you relocate the LCA's and use the wolfe mini tub kit you'll have close to 16", the next thing you'd get close to rubbing would be the panhard bar bracket. I narrowed mine and boxed it in.
I moved my shocks in, narrowed the frame and moved the LCA's between the frame itself and the inside of the LCA bracket, then you'd move the lca brackets on the rear end. If you look there are photos of it moved inside.
Look at post 277, picture 5 top right, you can see the lca in the stock location, but you can also see where I sectioned the frame and where it can mount even further inside of that.
If you look at post 201, the 3rd photo shows the stock LCA bracket and how the LCA in mounted between the frame and lca bracket itself.
Look at post 277, picture 5 top right, you can see the lca in the stock location, but you can also see where I sectioned the frame and where it can mount even further inside of that.
If you look at post 201, the 3rd photo shows the stock LCA bracket and how the LCA in mounted between the frame and lca bracket itself.
Last edited by RAGENZ28; May 8, 2009 at 11:39 PM.
Just been sitting in my garage haven't had time. I'm back in school and planning to move in the next few months, so most likely it'll start after I move. Looking forward to working with some family in the oil industry so money should really pick up.
Depends a lot on if I get a new bike. I might race the bike for a bit while I take my time on the car. Either way still the same plans, tub frame, big tire twin turbo.
Depends a lot on if I get a new bike. I might race the bike for a bit while I take my time on the car. Either way still the same plans, tub frame, big tire twin turbo.