Mini Tubbing
What used to be in this circled part:
Since I don't think you have any bracing currently holding the car in place, is there a chance the body may be tweaked or twisted a little once you do add the rollcage?
BTW, is it going to be a full rollcage or just a rollbar in the rear?
BTW, is it going to be a full rollcage or just a rollbar in the rear?
I just spotted something. In this pic, what is the black thing near the fuel filler tube? Upper right corner.
My 99 TA doesn't have that. I believe the 98's used a metal gas tank, so maybe that is the black box that now sits on top of the plastic tanks?
My 99 TA doesn't have that. I believe the 98's used a metal gas tank, so maybe that is the black box that now sits on top of the plastic tanks?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
You going to cut out the other brackets?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
No the body won't tweak or twist until you get more into cutting, cutting out the tubs won't do a thing, you brace the car when you start cutting out the floor in between the body, like a full tube frame set up, but as long as you have the floor in the car the body won't move around.
Let me draw a quick pic so you can see what I mean.
Last edited by chrismorales75; Nov 22, 2007 at 02:24 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
That plastic box is some kind of California smog BS gas fume recirculation.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
that shure is going to look weird outside the car, but if that what you want to do...lol , oughta work
except personally i would move the x in th door so that the front upper bar is where the front supports attach to triangulate that better, and it looks like you are going to use a hoop in the back from the main hoop to the standoffs(i didnt know what else to call them) you may need to bend that to clear the tubs, and also either way i would gusset it to the main hoop, also x in the back?
except personally i would move the x in th door so that the front upper bar is where the front supports attach to triangulate that better, and it looks like you are going to use a hoop in the back from the main hoop to the standoffs(i didnt know what else to call them) you may need to bend that to clear the tubs, and also either way i would gusset it to the main hoop, also x in the back?
Last edited by car_fixer; Nov 22, 2007 at 10:50 PM.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
That was just a 5 second drawing, it wasn't meant to be 100% correct and I'll remember to put the bars inside the car
The hoop doesn't have to be bent to clear the tubs, they only go up to the top of the hatch ledge.
The main thing is keeping the back seat so my kids can ride with me =)
It will look kind of like this, then later on I will add the rest of the bars when I remove the floor down the road.
The hoop doesn't have to be bent to clear the tubs, they only go up to the top of the hatch ledge.
The main thing is keeping the back seat so my kids can ride with me =)
It will look kind of like this, then later on I will add the rest of the bars when I remove the floor down the road.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...2&d=1195689824
That's quite a bit of material there. Thanks for the pictures with the updates.
That's quite a bit of material there. Thanks for the pictures with the updates.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...2&d=1195689824
That's quite a bit of material there. Thanks for the pictures with the updates.
That's quite a bit of material there. Thanks for the pictures with the updates.
I already have the plates for the frame cut out and all the pieces I am putting back in so I will weigh everything hopefully and have the weight saving numbers in by this weekend.
That was just a 5 second drawing, it wasn't meant to be 100% correct and I'll remember to put the bars inside the car
The hoop doesn't have to be bent to clear the tubs, they only go up to the top of the hatch ledge.
The main thing is keeping the back seat so my kids can ride with me =)
It will look kind of like this, then later on I will add the rest of the bars when I remove the floor down the road.
The hoop doesn't have to be bent to clear the tubs, they only go up to the top of the hatch ledge.
The main thing is keeping the back seat so my kids can ride with me =)
It will look kind of like this, then later on I will add the rest of the bars when I remove the floor down the road.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
LOL Hey it will be cool, I'll have a cage in the car and 315 60 15's on a 15x12 and still have a back seat that is usable, I think that's keeping it streetable
Plus down the road I don't have to touch or redo a single thing, pull out the rear seat, weld a few more bars in the car and I have a car good to 7.50's.
The way I will be doing it will be good to 8.50's so I doubt I'd run that fast ever anyways, wouldn't want to, I just want to add gas, check the tire pressure and make some passes, then go home and drive it to the store, to eat and around town and park it.
When I do my turbo motor one day it will be a LSX block, 6 bolt cylinder heads and a nice big turbo that makes max power around 6000 rpm on pump gas, when I want to go race I'll add some race gas and boost and knock some passes off. When I do that I will most likely run a th400 and a small stall something around 3000.
I'd be happy to have a car that will run 9's and drive on the street anytime I want.
Plus down the road I don't have to touch or redo a single thing, pull out the rear seat, weld a few more bars in the car and I have a car good to 7.50's.
The way I will be doing it will be good to 8.50's so I doubt I'd run that fast ever anyways, wouldn't want to, I just want to add gas, check the tire pressure and make some passes, then go home and drive it to the store, to eat and around town and park it.
When I do my turbo motor one day it will be a LSX block, 6 bolt cylinder heads and a nice big turbo that makes max power around 6000 rpm on pump gas, when I want to go race I'll add some race gas and boost and knock some passes off. When I do that I will most likely run a th400 and a small stall something around 3000.
I'd be happy to have a car that will run 9's and drive on the street anytime I want.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
2 straight bars and an "X" is like 1970 pro stock stuff LOL, I am going with a hoop and the two rear struts.
You're just trying to sabotage my dope street car project and make me turn to the dark side "FWD"
As of now the plan is as follows, but I doubt I will add any more bars.
You keep forgetting the car only makes like 400 hp right now
Last edited by chrismorales75; Nov 24, 2007 at 01:09 AM.
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
i never said 2 straight bars, and uh why do they still have x's there then....infact alot of cars have 2 x's , there just might be something to that. but at just 400 hp it wont be a problem, heck might even help , less weight lol
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
If so That wouldn't be something I put in until it is a dedicated race car, I don't think that would leave much head room in the back seat right now
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
yup right there, and yeah if you gusset the sides of the rear loop you could wait on the x there, I would just hate to see it twisting after all that work, it doesnt really matter when you put those bars (x) they are a pain to weld, especially when upside down standing on your head, and the bar that goes across the front of the seat wont make it hard to use?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
yup right there, and yeah if you gusset the sides of the rear loop you could wait on the x there, I would just hate to see it twisting after all that work, it doesnt really matter when you put those bars (x) they are a pain to weld, especially when upside down standing on your head, and the bar that goes across the front of the seat wont make it hard to use?
Nothing new for my kids, I was picking them up from elementary school and they were climbing over x door bars getting in 5 points LOL.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, California
Weighed everything today total weight cut out was 74.5 pounds and the weight of metal and tubs going back in was 21.5 pounds.
Total weight saved 53 pounds
Drilled the hole through the frame to remount the LCA, what a fricking hassle to get it straight, got that done looks like it will take a 6" bolt, also went to 1/2 bolts and enlarged bushing holes to 1/2. You'll have to remove the fuel filter on the frame and move the fuel line over some to drill the drivers side.
Will post new pics next week.
Total weight saved 53 pounds
Drilled the hole through the frame to remount the LCA, what a fricking hassle to get it straight, got that done looks like it will take a 6" bolt, also went to 1/2 bolts and enlarged bushing holes to 1/2. You'll have to remove the fuel filter on the frame and move the fuel line over some to drill the drivers side.
Will post new pics next week.