Mini Tubbing
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From: Ventura County, California
Finally got a welder coming tomorrow so I can weld up my frame and LCA front relocation, then I can start on the panhard rod bracket mount and doing whatever else 
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Ventura County, California
I was thinking of a soldering iron and some lead 
A mig welder my buddy is letting me borrow to box the frame in and weld a few things, will order my new set of tubs and get that done, then have to wait for santa it give me rims and tires for x-mas so i can measure for my 9"
Then I can make my d/a lca mounts and make my anti roll bar, then I'll have my 315 60 15's on a 15x12, still think I am the only one with a back seat with this tire/rim size
A mig welder my buddy is letting me borrow to box the frame in and weld a few things, will order my new set of tubs and get that done, then have to wait for santa it give me rims and tires for x-mas so i can measure for my 9"
Then I can make my d/a lca mounts and make my anti roll bar, then I'll have my 315 60 15's on a 15x12, still think I am the only one with a back seat with this tire/rim size
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From: Ventura County, California
Number one most important thing of the mini tubbing, make sure your cut lines are straight.
Post some photos of what you have done so far.
Hopefully some of the photos we have on here help you out reference wise.
BTW still waiting on my buddy to bring the welder I am going to borrow
I did all that work with a sawzaw and angle grinder, then I redid it and went 17" full tub I only had the angle grinder, so yeah it can be a lot easier with a plasma cutter
Number one most important thing of the mini tubbing, make sure your cut lines are straight.
Post some photos of what you have done so far.
Hopefully some of the photos we have on here help you out reference wise.
BTW still waiting on my buddy to bring the welder I am going to borrow
Number one most important thing of the mini tubbing, make sure your cut lines are straight.
Post some photos of what you have done so far.
Hopefully some of the photos we have on here help you out reference wise.
BTW still waiting on my buddy to bring the welder I am going to borrow
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Ventura County, California
Better not f' up my true 10.5 true tire car
Drop me off a tig and the plasma cutter and about 400 feet of tubing and I'll have us some pro stock looking stuff by next week
Drop me off a tig and the plasma cutter and about 400 feet of tubing and I'll have us some pro stock looking stuff by next week
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400 ft.....thats like 620 lbs, well round down to 600 for notches, that should be one hell of a set of monkey bars, like enough for a 1/2 scale dragster and a back up a pair of pit stands, a cool rack in the trailer to stack them...what kind of cage is that again? 
I said "US" I was going to do yours too LOL. So send me a couple hundred feet then for mine.
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hey wait your alter ego replied...I have pretty much made up my mind, planning the next ride now, probably going full 25.1e tube frame most likely 66 67 chevy II been looking at that year one body with the slight chop on the top, and workable windows...just dont want to be stuck with that chassis they have. I guess i should contact them about that. then ill have more tube than you lol. Anybody looking for a low 9 second camaro, knockin on the door of 8's?
Hey - Any one with Wolfe tubs --- How much room do you have at the back side of the drivers tub. I have 16" at the front and with it all in place lije it is supposed to be, I have about 13.5 to 14 in the rear. It is all in straight and this is after cutting the frame. I am talking about the measurement from the frame to the back edge of the wheel fender lip
Hey - Any one with Wolfe tubs --- How much room do you have at the back side of the drivers tub. I have 16" at the front and with it all in place like it is supposed to be, I have about 13.5 to 14 in the rear. It is all in straight and this is after cutting the frame. I am talking about the measurement from the frame to the back edge of the wheel fender lip
The measurement will change forward and reward vs. the center measurement from the taper of the fender and body inside the car.
Main thing is to measure from the fender to the frame 16" exactly in the center of the fender, It will provide the widest measurement at this point.
Then use a square, straight edge or whatever you have to transfer the line down along side the frame and down to the floor. Find the center of the floor and mark that. Then run another line down the center of the car.
That way you have a reference to make sure the frame is cut the same as the floor and rear seat area. Then you can measure from the cut line to that center line along the way to make sure you have your cut line straight.
To start with I cut the tubs to be 10" wide when I mini tubbed it. That stuck a little inside, then I traced a line from the inside of the car along the body onto the tub so I could trim the extra off. I left about 1/2" to attach the tub to the factory wheel tub.
I don't know exactly what you're trying to figure out, but the measurements will change as you take measurements from different places along the wheel well and body.
Once you cut measure from the center of the body and check to make sure you have the same measurement, then from the left side to right side and make sure the measurement is the same when you measure the metal in between the floor.
Thanks Chris - I got it all in there straight and everything measures 16" at the top but I was just making sure the frame was cut back far enough. It is even with the tub so I am sure its fine.
Nice illustrations by the way - thanks again
Nice illustrations by the way - thanks again
When you look down from the top everything should be straight down, with the exception being the panhard bracket sticking out, but I took care of that on mine =)
Use a square and hang it off the edge from the top, the top trunk floor, and two pieces of frame should all touch.
Measure from the left side to right side of the metal in between the tubs, all measurements should be the same, if one is off, make a centerline mark and measure the left and right side to center to see which one is off.
I think it was like between 73.25 - 73.5 from outside fender to outside fender.
Measure the metal in between, It should be 41.25 - 41.5" .
Formula 73.5 outer fender to outer fender, minus left tub 16", minus right tub 16" So 73.5-16-16= 41.5.
Get it got it good
Use a square and hang it off the edge from the top, the top trunk floor, and two pieces of frame should all touch.
Measure from the left side to right side of the metal in between the tubs, all measurements should be the same, if one is off, make a centerline mark and measure the left and right side to center to see which one is off.
I think it was like between 73.25 - 73.5 from outside fender to outside fender.
Measure the metal in between, It should be 41.25 - 41.5" .
Formula 73.5 outer fender to outer fender, minus left tub 16", minus right tub 16" So 73.5-16-16= 41.5.
Get it got it good
RAGEN by taking care of the panhard bracket, are you just moving it in to be flush with the tub and then shortening the panhard bar and the other support bar? (I'm in the middle of tubbing also)
Before you make the new hole to mount the rod you want the tire on the car and it at ride hight and centered, then you set the bar parallel with the rear end, so it isn't pointing up or downhill.
So basically, cut factory bracket flush with frame. Make piece to box in bracket, make two tabs to hold the panhard rod, center and align everything, weld the tabs in, cut and adjust the panhard rod for length.
I will actually move my panhard bracket on the rear end as well since I am going to narrow mine 5.5-6.5" perside. I also have my LCA's relocated.
Any reason you want to cut the panhard bracket?
You'll hit the LCA first anyways.
Basic idea of redoing bracket after cutting for clearance.
If you want to redo the panhard bracket brace just make a second rod out of 1" .156 wall and use solid rod ends and attach it to the outside of the same hole for the panhard rod. Or you could just reuse the stock panhard brace and cut it down a little bit and weld it back together then make a new hole above the panhard hole and mount it up.
But answer to your first question, I didnt move the bracket in I cut it narrower, and yes shorten the panhard bar and panhard brace.
I'd have to measure but I would say I gained over 2" of clearance trimming the panhard bracket.
Here is how much i cut off but remember I went 17" from my fender to frame.
2nd pic shows how much I ended up cutting off. If you go 16" you'd have an inch less cut off than I took off.
So if you have 16" tubs and cut yours you'd probably end up cutting right by the panhard rod hole, to give you an idea when you look under the car.
If you want to redo the panhard bracket brace just make a second rod out of 1" .156 wall and use solid rod ends and attach it to the outside of the same hole for the panhard rod. Or you could just reuse the stock panhard brace and cut it down a little bit and weld it back together then make a new hole above the panhard hole and mount it up.
But answer to your first question, I didnt move the bracket in I cut it narrower, and yes shorten the panhard bar and panhard brace.
I'd have to measure but I would say I gained over 2" of clearance trimming the panhard bracket.
Here is how much i cut off but remember I went 17" from my fender to frame.
2nd pic shows how much I ended up cutting off. If you go 16" you'd have an inch less cut off than I took off.
So if you have 16" tubs and cut yours you'd probably end up cutting right by the panhard rod hole, to give you an idea when you look under the car.
Last edited by RAGENZ28; Dec 2, 2007 at 10:29 PM.
Any reason you want to cut the panhard bracket?
You'll hit the LCA first anyways.
You'll hit the LCA first anyways.
Nice pics by the way.
Thanks
Sure no problem, people run it on 15x12's but they don't tuck in unless you move stuff around and I wanted to lower my car back down some that's why I went with relocated stuff.