Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Sounds like you need to do something with the neighbors



Congrats on getting it back together....PICS PLEASE!!!

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Finally! The pics everyone's been waiting to see, including me. It looks like a car again after a year and a half.

There is still a lot to be done in a short amount of time. To go racing lol.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

FAWK YEAH.......Looks killer!!!!!!!

Aside from not having carpet, which I would have put in, looks plain bad ***!!!


Way to go man!!


Getting me pumped on my GT LSx

CanuckSS

iTrader: (13)

Congrats on it looking like a car again. Tough to beat the look of a notch back fox body Mustang. Good luck this year, I am betting you will have lots of fun!

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

looks killer, now just lower the rear a little bit and it'll look downright nasty !

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Thanks guys. I have a brand new black carpet for it. It will be the last thing I put in. I want to make sure all the welding and wiring is done first and then I will cut and glue the carpet down in it.

It has a few oil leaks I need to get figured out. One small one is at the oil pan on the drivers side. It is tight but still leaking near a bolt. It is coming from between the pan/block. I think I'm going to lower the pan and clean it, then put a small amount of right stuff selant in between.
The next on is coming around the oil sending plug/adaptor. It is a brass fitting made it fit in the ls1 with a 3/8 hole to put a flare fitting in for the oil line. The brass fitting is leaking around the block. I have tried everything from teflon to right stuff around the threads to nothing at all but the brass washer it came with. It still leaks around the brass.
The next leak was coming out of the big breather in the passenger valve cover. So I taped it up to stop it from leaking and now it pushed a tone of oil into the catch can and is leaking from that breather on top of the tank.

Can anyone give me some idea's to try?????

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

On teh pipe fitting, are you saying you put in a 3/8" thread fitting into your block? I am not sure of teh size of teh fitting on teh block at all right now, but they are all metric though, right? So, maybe worng pitch thread is why the leak there? Maybe have a pic of it help explain?

Valve cover breather....getting so much oil there for basically one of 2 reasons. 1)You do not have enough ventialtion for teh crankcase, and it is all escaping that one breather
or
2)You have LOTS of blowby

Sounds like #1 to me though. Is that your only source of ventilation? If so, you definitely need more.


Edit:

Looked at your pics again, looks like you have 2 breathers on teh VC's. I would install one in your valley cover, better source of venting there

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

I will snap a few more pics today, I'm getting ready to go over there and work on it. There is a breather in both valve covers, one large one and one small one. I also put a -8an in the valley cover and that goes to the catch can with a breather on that. Once I closed off the valver cover breather it was pushing it out the catch can breather.

The oil sender adapter is a 16mmx?thread. I ordered the correct fitting from jegs. It came with a brass washer. The fitting has a 3/8" hole in the top of it for the 3/8 flare fitting which the oil line hooks to. The sucker leaks no matter what I do. I think the adapter has a flare on the bottom causing it to not seat down all the way. But then again it looks tapered like a pipe thread should be, starts out small and gets larger as it goes up, therfor sealing as you tighten it.

I'll snap several pics and check back in later today.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

OK, that could be your problem:

If it is a AN fitting, do NOT use ANY type of tape/paste on teh threads. Only use tape/paste on pipe threads.

What about a source of "suction" or Vacuum for a breather? In other words, are you just "venting" and not using "vacuum" to pull out the gases? Our motors are pretty well known for needing a pretty good PCV setup, and if not, we can get alot of "blowby" causing oil leaks. That could also be the source of your oil pan area leak. I had an old van many years ago that was leaking out of every thing, and it ended up being that the PCV line became clogged with carbon, so I was not getting any relief, so the pressure was building up and PUSHING oil pass seals/gaskets. Fixed teh PCV setup, oil leaks stopped.

Check your fitting though, and if it is AN, take the tape/paste off, that will fix that leak. Or did I misunderstand again Sorry, just trying to picture your setup.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

You kinda of misunderstood, the leak is around the block and pipe fitting. Not the tappered AN fitting the oil lne screws on to. I have pics up and a video. You will see what I'm saying. I ended up putting a few layers of teflon on it yesterday and the brass washer and it has not leaked again and I have put manybe 25 miles on it. I'm good there.

Now onto the PVC deal. I kinda think I need to do something about this. I have a breather in both valve covers and a -8AN hose coming off of the valley cover to a catch can with another breather. So yes, I am just venting the motor with no vacume on it.
It is spitting it out of both large breathers and a minor leak on the oil pan. It now does not seam to be as bad as it was at first but still spitting on the fire wall and I have to keep the one on the valve cover partially blocked to keep it off the header. Sucks ***.

Advice and thoughts on this please...

Now to the fueling/tuning the carb. I am a noob at this but I think it is going in the right direction today. I started off by checking the jets to see what was in there. I thought it was what "came in it as new" well turns out it was not. The box says 75p/83s jets PV6.5 pink cams 31 squirter.
The front jets were 70's and the rear 78's. This ran at 13.5:1 at idle and 12.5 to 13.5:1 at 2500 rpm's then went way rich at wot, like as high as 18:1.
So after lots of jet changes I now have 75's up front with the 6.5PV and 90's in the rear with no power valve. I have the idle leaned out to 14:1 and part throttle around 13.5:1 and wot goes lean for a split sec the fattens up quickly to 13:1.
I think it is safer now but will still need more work to get dialed in. The car is very responsive and drives great.

I also put a vacume gauge on the carb and at 900 rpm's with the car in gear and holding the brakes it drew 10" of vacume. Should I drop to a 5 power valve?

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

The oil leaks at the 2nd pan bolt. I wiped it clen in this pic. It will leave a 4" to 6" spot on the floor over night or after parking it from driving.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

That fitting above has a brass washer the goes under it when screwing it into the block. Then the oil line screws on the flare fitting.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Here is were it goes. And my getto rig to keep the oil from spitting all over my pretty motor lol.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Here is a walk around video I shot yesterday. Dig the tunes and the horn button lol.

Captain InsaneO

iTrader: (38)

Nice, but your choice in music licks *****!!

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

What, you don't like my getto music? HAHA. It was in the radio when I hooked it up. It is a mixxed rap/hip hop CD. Been in there for 1 1/2 years.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

OK, I got ya now.

I would get CRAZY with teh teflon TAPE on that fitting, and call it a day.

Lets get to your breather set up. With that duct tape on it, you are closing off even more of the needed area to breathe. I would drill and tap (unless your intake has a provision) your intake for a fitting, and run it to your valley cover with vacuum, and try that first. I am willing to bet, that will fix your breather/oil problem.

Carb:
First of all, did you set the float level? I did not see any mention of that. If not, make sure you get that set up. If you have not done so already, buy the clear float level site glass, PRICELESS!!!

YOu may want to drop to a 5, yes. First however.....

Timing? Advance, how is it set up...vacuum or mechanical? Locked out? Plugs? Heat range, etc....make sure all that is fine and dandy, as if not, as I am sure you are aware, can lead to problems, that MAY seem like a carb problem.

Assuming all that is good (plugs, timing, etc...) your next step you may want to swap teh PV. Make 1 change at a time though!

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Not a bad idea on the evac setup. The intake has a plug screwed into it on the right rear. I could screw a an fitting on it maybe. Then run that to the valley cover. But the two are VERY close to each other. Would this pull a lot of oil through the engine??

On the carb, the floats are set to the middle line on both frt and Rr. I will order a 5 PV and put that in there and see how it responds.

As far and timing, we have not really got into that other than setting it around 18 to 22 at idle and backed down the total timing to 28 to be on the safe side. And dropped the limiter to 5800rpm's to keep from twisting to hard on the new motor. I don't know about the advance. The plugs are ngk TR6 gapped at .045"
My buddie who is helping me with tuning it is down and out, just had knee surgery and will not be back on his feet for at least 6 weeks and I don't really have that long as my first big race date is May 30th. Pinks ALL OUT here in Indy.

I know what you mean about making to many changes at once. Ya never know what made the difference.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

i'm going to pinks all out indy as well

If you still have a slight stumble upon WOT then I'd up the squirters and/or change out the cam to something with more shot depending on where your throttle position is. Some guys jump to the 50cc pump shot up front immediately and that cures it as well. Dropping your power valve down lower would make more of a lean condition initially. The 6.5 should be fine for your purposes until you get the stumble issue fixed first. Is it more a stumble when quickly opening the front 2 barrels or all 4? that will narrow down your issues.