lets see your abs delete
07-09-2008, 03:38 PM
#42
Heres mine setup, I just did. I wanted to be able to get to the master easy, the cars gona be m6 for a long time. So I didn't try to hide the linelock noid. or proporing valve under the power booster blocking it. Came out mint, theres tons of room now under the hood. 
I already RnR The master and it was easier then stock, the res fits right thu the dent in the powerbooster like stock. Just somthing I see if your a m6 car and you wnat to hind that stuff, to thing about.
Some info, the stock rear metric lines OD was .190 so I just put a normal 3/16 nut on and double flare on the ends. Worked great no leaks.
Same time a added the SLP linelock, and Kmember so just redid the whole front lines. But I reused some of the SLP lit upper line, rebent and shortened it. Put the noid. were the ABS junk was. Not really hidden but makes the lines nice and short going to the front breakes, and its out of the way. The stock fitting thread size was m10,m11, m12 bubble. On the stock master, and the front flex lines. Autozone has adaptor fittings for Mxx to normal 3/16s double flair so its easy to make new lines right to the stock parts. This dosn't really save that much weight the ABS block with cast iron braket, and the briaded lines was only like 20lbs maybe.
David (MM) posted up a thread on his car, he took the cast iron ABS block braket off. And used a little 5-6inch bar of like 1/4x1 alum to hold the ABS block. That just went to one off the holes on the frame, and one hole on the block. The lines hold it pretty good with no brakets, and the cast iron braket was 90% of the whole things weight there. Probally save 15# and takes no time.
I already RnR The master and it was easier then stock, the res fits right thu the dent in the powerbooster like stock. Just somthing I see if your a m6 car and you wnat to hind that stuff, to thing about.Some info, the stock rear metric lines OD was .190 so I just put a normal 3/16 nut on and double flare on the ends. Worked great no leaks.
Same time a added the SLP linelock, and Kmember so just redid the whole front lines. But I reused some of the SLP lit upper line, rebent and shortened it. Put the noid. were the ABS junk was. Not really hidden but makes the lines nice and short going to the front breakes, and its out of the way. The stock fitting thread size was m10,m11, m12 bubble. On the stock master, and the front flex lines. Autozone has adaptor fittings for Mxx to normal 3/16s double flair so its easy to make new lines right to the stock parts. This dosn't really save that much weight the ABS block with cast iron braket, and the briaded lines was only like 20lbs maybe.
David (MM) posted up a thread on his car, he took the cast iron ABS block braket off. And used a little 5-6inch bar of like 1/4x1 alum to hold the ABS block. That just went to one off the holes on the frame, and one hole on the block. The lines hold it pretty good with no brakets, and the cast iron braket was 90% of the whole things weight there. Probally save 15# and takes no time.
Last edited by studderin; 07-09-2008 at 03:45 PM.
09-05-2008, 01:24 PM
#43
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I saw Pro Stock John didn't use the proportioning valve. I'm thinking about saving a couple bucks and doing it the same way he did. I've been running without the abs for over a year now without any stopping issues so I don't think the valve is necessary. 50/50 front to back hasn't ran me into any issues.
Also the computer box right in front of the drivers wheel is that the abs control box? I had the car up yesterday taking the a/c out and other brackets and stuff and was wondering if I could take that out as well since I don't have abs?
Also the computer box right in front of the drivers wheel is that the abs control box? I had the car up yesterday taking the a/c out and other brackets and stuff and was wondering if I could take that out as well since I don't have abs?
09-05-2008, 01:44 PM
#44
One can argue or justify their results for not using a proportioning valve. Simply put, when you do not have your brake bias adjusted correctly, you are NOT using your brakes to its best stopping ability. The best situation is to have both front and rear wheels lock at the same time. When one set of wheels is locking before the other, you are not able to apply fully braking power and stopping distances will suffer. It also can create a hazardous situation when your rears lock before your fronts...which is typically the case.
No car will be the same, so it's important to have an adjustable valve. This is why EVERY one of our kits we produce include an adjustable valve.
Good luck!
No car will be the same, so it's important to have an adjustable valve. This is why EVERY one of our kits we produce include an adjustable valve.
Good luck!
09-05-2008, 01:44 PM
#45
You also have to remember when your slowing down, you are on STICKY slicks and some little tiny front runners. The stock bias is designed for meaty 275's up front and the same in back, so it can be beneficial to have more brake bias toward the rear.
09-05-2008, 01:49 PM
#46
So far, with the aerospace drag brakes front and rear, and a burkhart manual master, no proportioning valve, no abs none of it I can stop teh car deom 140+ no problems, other then giving it a prayer pump (pump once then hit them again and they work fine), and a little added pedal pressure.
I feel that once I"m going probably 165, I'm gonna need the chute to stop it quickly, but that's why they require them at 150
I feel that once I"m going probably 165, I'm gonna need the chute to stop it quickly, but that's why they require them at 150
09-05-2008, 01:52 PM
#47
Can be very true. There are many variances which affect bias needs. Tire choices, weight of wheels, car distribution, etc etc etc....No car will be the same, the chances of ones being correct would be about the same chances as being hit by lightening.
This is why it's important to use an adjustable valve. Face it, this is a 50.00 item. So if you're too cheap or you don't have enough funds for something so important than you may be over your head regarding modifications. I'd be more concerned with the cost of fuel vs. a 50.00 component.
Not being able to stop is not an issue...it's using your brakes to the fullest ability. If you're stepping on your brakes until one set of wheels lock...lets say the rears as this is typical, and the fronts are not at lock, then you're missing out on stopping shorter. If you're just slamming on your brakes, the valve makes no difference, you'll always lock all wheels...but the valve is designed for when you need to threshold brake in a more controlled mannor.
You do NOT want to lock your wheels, at this point, your going to take longer to stop. You want all wheels to be near lock.
Last edited by SJM Manufacturing Inc; 09-05-2008 at 02:03 PM.
09-05-2008, 02:00 PM
#48
50? Its not even that! i spent 39.95 for mine from the local race shop who is not the cheapest when it comes to part. I didn't have one on the trans am but the miata with its gumball 205's (HAHAHA, who would of thought 205's would be considered big tires!) it needed alot more rear bias then the factory proportioning valve required but with the adjustable one opened up all the way the rear locks up WAY before the front. You want the front to lock up just that hair before the rear does so you don't get put into a fishtail (not fun at 110mph+.... trust me)
09-05-2008, 02:19 PM
#49
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Alright I'll probably go JL's way since on both of my cars with no ABS i've done just fine. Eventually i'll get the valve but until then I'll just set it up that way. Also to the second part of my question is that the ABS control box in front of the drivers wheel in that plastic compartment. I was going to take it out but wasn't positive.
09-05-2008, 02:37 PM
#51
The proportioning valves we use are from Wilwood. 50.00 is a rounded price when you take into consideration shipping or taxes. You may spend slightly more/less. You'll have to purchase a few additional pieces i.e. fittings and mounting components.
Our kits have everthing included. Even the base kit for 139.99 includes every fitting, adjustable valve, preformed lines replacing stock components. The line lock kit is a 40.00 option which includes the solenoid two switches, remote LED and other electrical needs. The double flare tool is a 20.00 option. I may have mentioned this previously in this post...I apologize if I did...I didn't read backwards on it.
Our kits have everthing included. Even the base kit for 139.99 includes every fitting, adjustable valve, preformed lines replacing stock components. The line lock kit is a 40.00 option which includes the solenoid two switches, remote LED and other electrical needs. The double flare tool is a 20.00 option. I may have mentioned this previously in this post...I apologize if I did...I didn't read backwards on it.
09-05-2008, 03:17 PM
#53
Thanks chpmnsws6, I just looked, ours is actually 41.95 plus shipping.
We don't list them seperate on the website, so you'd have to call to order. We can provide any other components that someone would need if they choose to custom build their own kit instead of our pre-formed kit. Honesty, the pre-formed kit is the best way to go if you want a plug and play kit. There is a sense of customization and gratification folks get by creating their own design...perfectly fine and I commend them. I wouldn't suggest them to do so if saving money is of only concern. Cost and time wise, our kits are most economical and easiest.
On a side note, if you are considering making your own design, do NOT add braided lines to your braking system. Actually, removing as many as you can is beneficial.
We don't list them seperate on the website, so you'd have to call to order. We can provide any other components that someone would need if they choose to custom build their own kit instead of our pre-formed kit. Honesty, the pre-formed kit is the best way to go if you want a plug and play kit. There is a sense of customization and gratification folks get by creating their own design...perfectly fine and I commend them. I wouldn't suggest them to do so if saving money is of only concern. Cost and time wise, our kits are most economical and easiest.
On a side note, if you are considering making your own design, do NOT add braided lines to your braking system. Actually, removing as many as you can is beneficial.
09-05-2008, 03:21 PM
#54
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If I was to buy the part it would either be from a sponsor on this site or my local speed shop. I do buy much more from the local guys tho since I'm a local small business owner as well.
So does anyone know the answer to the second part of my question. If I was to pull that box it shouldn't affect anything else? I just don't want to pull the box and find out it is an airbag control box or anything.
So does anyone know the answer to the second part of my question. If I was to pull that box it shouldn't affect anything else? I just don't want to pull the box and find out it is an airbag control box or anything.
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09-05-2008, 03:23 PM
#56
If I was to buy the part it would either be from a sponsor on this site or my local speed shop. I do buy much more from the local guys tho since I'm a local small business owner as well.
So does anyone know the answer to the second part of my question. If I was to pull that box it shouldn't affect anything else? I just don't want to pull the box and find out it is an airbag control box or anything.
So does anyone know the answer to the second part of my question. If I was to pull that box it shouldn't affect anything else? I just don't want to pull the box and find out it is an airbag control box or anything.
09-05-2008, 04:00 PM
#57
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The abs inop light has been shining me in the face since day one. haha Alright thanks for the help. I didn't want to unplug the thing and have an airbag blowup in the car.
