Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

I'm at a crossroads.

Shortblock is an SDPC 427 L92 engine w/callies compstar internals. Has the 4.1 crank and 7cc Manley Pistons. This is more of a max effort build primarily a drag car with some street. The car will be near 2800-2900lb raceweight, Rossler TH350 w/transbrake, ATI 4000-4500 8" Verter, Drag Brakes.... etc.

I'm trying to get an idea what kind of power difference there would be between these options. I'm shooting for deep into the 9's.

Option 1:
TSP Ported L92's w/Ported L76 Intake

Option 2:
TSP Ported L92's w/Sheetmetal or Carb'd Intake

Option 3:
TFS 235's w/Sheetmetal or Carb'd Intake

Option 4:
TFS 235's w/Sheetmetal or Carb'd Intake SOLID ROLLER

Other

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

I have a 441 with L92's and stock intake. My set up is very close to yours-Rossler th350, 8" vert, 3100lbs etc.
When ported my heads flowed 330 cfm through the intake so if cost is a concern (is for me) the stock intake isn't that restrictive.
Now a solid roller is another story, definately much more limited street use and more maintenance and much more expensive.
My combo made 530 rwhp and 630 peak torque through the unlocked th350, 8" vert, 12 bolt, 4:10(too much gear actually since changed to 3:73's) and 30" Hoosiers so that's the kind of power that can be made with a hydrolic set up. Obviously more can be made with a solid roller set up but then comes the streetability and cost issues I mentioned earlier.
FAST is supposedly coming out with an intake that will work with the L92's so that could be an option in the near future as well.
My opinion-Option 1

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I know your raceweight is pretty low, but to get deep into the 9's I think you're gonna need as much n/a power as you can make (assuming this is an n/a setup) Big compression, alot of RPM, probably a looser stall then a 4000 (like a 5500 or so),. tallest tire you can fit to get the car to really hook and leave HARD, and gear it so it just makes it.

Solid roller is a pita with the adjustment and whatnot, but for what you want to do it is a viable option IMO.

I checked off the tfs head/solid roller and a carb manafold setup..... Personally I'd look into doing something like that with ET's heads, if you're serious and $ isn't too much a problem I'd get ahold of ET and see what they can do for an in take to match the setup.


I hope you're not gonna try to do this on pump gas, because for where you want to go, it's not even a viable option really, at least not n/a

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

Tektrans/JL ws-6

Thx for posting your experience and opinions. I was thinking the same thing regarding streetability and trying to keep it pump gas friendly and keeping it hydraulic, but then I realized the car is gutted, will have a 10pt cage with window net, a th350 without lockup verter, a big verter at that, have to use the transbrake button to go in reverse, Madman suspension with all rod ends, mufflers off the collectors, drag brakes, no heating & air, no stereo, kirkey seats..... it's about time to realize its a track car that I might drive on the street on a limited basis.

I have some ported L92's now and 11.5:1 or so and I think my efforts to keep the engine somewhat street friendly and driveable don't really match the setup of the car. I've come to that realization and I'm ok with it so I guess I will just go all out.

Who would be the best to spec out a solid roller cam for me?

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you are gonna stick with those heads, I'd call comp directly, I don't know what is out there for those heads as far as solid roller rockers and whatnot.... If you are willing ot go to a more racy head, I'd call Cary @ ET, see what he can do for a top end package that will work with your shortblock.. heads, intake and cam. This way you know all that stuff will work together

Get that compression up too, unless you absolutely have to run pump gas, I'd pump that compression to 13.5 to 1 at least and get the static as high as you can too.. lots more power to be made n/a with more compression.

(My 402 is an ET 240 headed 13.5 to 1 compression setup, and in a 3500 lb car it runs mid 190's all day n/a and on a 150 hit off a Nos plate, it ran the video in my sig)

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Is this going to be a race gas or pump gas motor? If it is run on race gas you should run it 15-1, why give up free power, also if you get L92 heads get a good cnc'd setup that flows at least 370 cfm, that being said, with the right cam should put the car into the 9's on motor alone, but 4,500 isn't much stall, if you plan to spray the car it's fine but if it is motor only you're going to need more stall.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

It's a pita if you've never done it. If you're going that route, aftermarket valve covers are a must for clearance in most cases, and relocating the coils is just part of that in most cases.

John02SS

iTrader: (47)

I did a L92 427, TFS 235's, big hyd roller, and the Wilson Billet Bank intake setup. It should be in the car next weekend and on the dyno very shortly after.

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

Can't wait to see the results. Please do post up! What are the cam specs if you don't mind me asking?

I look to be doing the TFS 235's with a solid roller. I'm just trying to find the cam that will suit me at this point and get the heads built around them.

BROCZ

iTrader: (18)

Do 15 to 1 and big solid with carb intake. If its a race car go for it!! It will be a lot of fun on the street still haha. And im sure you wont have any problems adjusting everything.

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

I'm not scared to adjust valves. No biggie for me. If you can hack the crap out of your car and take the time to remove wires that you don't need, you sure as hell can adjust valves.

13:1 is as high as I can get without pulling the pistons. So that is about my limit for now.

Any recommendations for a solid cam size and realistic RPM range for it?

Brian Tooley Racing

iTrader: (13)

Hey Scott, I just had a thought. You and I have been talking about your combo and I am doing a similar one and have the same questions as you do. Then I thought about a customer of ours with a pump gas 402, TFS 225's and a hyd roller cam that went 9.90's first time out with a very well setup car like yours. So you will have a bigger engine, if you went with the TFS 235's you will have a better set of heads, so even if you went with a slightly bigger hyd roller cam, you should be making more power than he is. Go to this thread, post #25 and check it out.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/816128-408-results-part-ii.html

Video of the car. (You may have to right click, "Save Target as", etc.)
http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/Media/RickVideo.wmv

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I've done it before on old school ****, and I am perfectly comfortable with it... but alot of people aren't. And with the advances in hydraulic stuff these days, you can go alot further with hydraulic then you could years ago.

SILVERZZ28

iTrader: (3)

Do you think the ol NBM SS will finally break 500rwhp N/A ?

You always said you didnt need more than a 347 to do it

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

6 speed or auto, our motor peaks at 8200 and we run a 6k stall with a glide, keep in mind the more cam you run the more stall and more gear you'll need.

For a street / strip car I'd say 7,500 is a realistic redline, after that you're getting up there and it is havoc on the valve train.

Stroke also plays an important role in max rpm, with a big stroker you're not going to rev it like a 3.622 stroke.

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

There are plenty of people revving the hell out of big cube LSX strokers...

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

Yeah but how long before they have to come apart?
He said the hi revs wreak havok on the drivetrain, not that it's not being done.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Revving a stroker motor isn't the best for engine longevity, even if it is raced in short durations.

If for some reason you feel the need to rev the **** out of the motor, build it with less stroke and a longer rod so it'll be better suited to higher rpm.

The guy wants to break into the 9's, not set a new world record, he also wants to drive it on the street, so putting the biggest cam a company can make just so he can say he can rev it to 9k rpm isn't going to be that fun when he takes it out on the town and is trying to drive around with a 6500+ stall.

Not to mention when he has to check the valves after each pass and a set of valve springs last shorter than a set of tires

Personally I would build it milder and since low 9's is the goal, run less cam, less stall and toss a 100 shot on it. When you drive it around town it will be a lot milder, trust me when you get a car that fun you'll want to drive it all the time and a max effort, high revving, super high stall isn't the best on the street.

There are ways to find a happy medium and I am sure even with a hydraulic roller, you can get it into the 9's and with a small shot run low 9's pretty easy. Just my .02

Question is do you want to race this car and hardly drive it on the street or race the car and drive it as much as you want on the street?

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

I'm gonna run low 9s NA, I don't need that NOS. Would really like to make 8.99. I'm not shooting for 9k rpms, 8 will be fine. Its also primarily a track car obviously, but I will drive it on the street. I don't think you have to check valves after each pass either, this isnt top fuel. And a lot fords have big stroke motors and rev the **** out of them. I know shorter stroke might like to be there a little better, but the bigger stroke doesnt seem to be a problem either and will make more power.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I think 6speeds inc, just broke the 8's try to pm them, but I'm pretty sure they are in the 9k rpm range, you're talking about making 900+ hp, unless you're going to get your car very, very light.

Fastest N/A LS1 is 8.7's? so you're talking about only running 2 tenths slower, I think a cam to do that will have to pretty much be high rpm, all out drag race profile.

Most people I know with high rpm check the valves in between passes, that's just part of running high rpm big cam stuff.

A lot of people don't check things, some wait for it to break or slow down before they look into the motor, if you want all out of your motor you'll have to adjust the valves to see how the motor responds to the lash anyways.

Also a lot of those people run aluminum rods you junk after so many passes and titanium valve and parts which adds up fast money wise.