Racing with the heater on helps?
#1
Racing with the heater on helps?
Iv'e heard some people say that turning your heat on actually lowers your E.T. because it helps remove heat from the engine...I know running your car with the A/C on hurts the times, but I have never heard of running with the heat on....Im calling but has anyone else ever heard of this?
Last edited by foreverzero; 02-13-2008 at 06:25 PM.
#2
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I've used the heater to circulate the water temps down on the return road but never ran it during a run. Figure the fan motor will take some power to turn and that makes the alternator work harder which in turn will should slow the car down somewhat due to the electrical load.
Speculation, but you can always try it since no water should be dripping on the track like A/C would.
Derek
Speculation, but you can always try it since no water should be dripping on the track like A/C would.
Derek
#6
I've used the heater to circulate the water temps down on the return road but never ran it during a run. Figure the fan motor will take some power to turn and that makes the alternator work harder which in turn will should slow the car down somewhat due to the electrical load.
Speculation, but you can always try it since no water should be dripping on the track like A/C would.
Derek
Speculation, but you can always try it since no water should be dripping on the track like A/C would.
Derek
#7
It wont cool enough during the run to make a difference. Like was said earlier, run it while in the lanes/pits to help cool the engine, its just like an extra little radiator.
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Why is it that when jumper cables are hooked to a running vehicle then connected to the dead battery of another vehicle, that the engine of the running vehicle is pulled down when the connection is made?
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That's something we did way back in the day. No firesuits, no helmets. Probably running 13-14's with barely over
stock 350's at 300HP. It should help keep cooler, I doubt if it's going to gain anything other than more sweat.
We didn't have fancy fans, alum radiators ect ect.
.
That's something we did way back in the day. No firesuits, no helmets. Probably running 13-14's with barely over
stock 350's at 300HP. It should help keep cooler, I doubt if it's going to gain anything other than more sweat.
We didn't have fancy fans, alum radiators ect ect.
.
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The ls1 ac compressor shuts off at 5500 Rpms. found that one out on the dyno, and it also seems ot be tru for the ls2 and ls7 as we tried it with the new zo6 on the dyno 3 weeks ago.
I need to try the heater mod when I am at the track during the summer and its 90+ outside in the Florida heat. I bet I go faster by the end of the day as I would sweat out 10-15 pounds haha.
I have been told to keep the vent open while racing as it would do the same thing.
I need to try the heater mod when I am at the track during the summer and its 90+ outside in the Florida heat. I bet I go faster by the end of the day as I would sweat out 10-15 pounds haha.
I have been told to keep the vent open while racing as it would do the same thing.
#14
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At the track with my old track car, I shut off my fans just before I stage, it runs faster, more spark power. I doubt turning on the heater will do a thing, think about it why would the car go faster turning on the heater when most passes are done with the car already cooled down?
If you're hot lapping the car sure it'll drop the temp some, you could run the heater with the windows down, then shut it off right when you start to do your burnout, but it would be god aweful hot in a car with a helmet and jacket.
If you're hot lapping the car sure it'll drop the temp some, you could run the heater with the windows down, then shut it off right when you start to do your burnout, but it would be god aweful hot in a car with a helmet and jacket.
#15
yeah cause the dead battery is stealing juice from the good battery...that has nothing to do with the alternator struggling to make more power...
#16
it is not because the alternator is working harder...it either works or doesnt work...the reason your car is possibly running slower is due to the battery not having the same charge...
#17
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GM puts a value in the PCM (which we can get to using a tuning tool) to account for the additional load on the engine (from the additional load on the alternator) for each of the two fans individually. When my fans kick on, my voltage doesn't drop. But there is more load on the engine/alternator.
It take more horsepower to produce 100 amps of electical output than it does to produce 10 amps.
It take more horsepower to produce 100 amps of electical output than it does to produce 10 amps.
#18
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Iv'e heard some people say that turning your heat on actually lowers your E.T. because it helps remove heat from the engine...I know running your car with the A/C on hurts the times, but I have never heard of running with the heat on....Im calling but has anyone else ever heard of this?
So, if your engine runs better at a lower temp, and your radiator and fans can't keep the coolant temp at that more optimal level, running the heater might help.
But if your setup is already keeping the coolant at the "switchpoint" of your coolant thermostat, then running the heater won't make the coolant any cooler... The thermostat will just close and keep the heat up anyway.
#19
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Information on alternator loading:
Simple Version
http://www.alternatorparts.com/under...lternators.htm
REGULATOR
The regulator has two inputs and one output. The inputs are the field current supply and the control voltage input, and the output is the field current to the rotor. The regulator uses the control voltage input to control the amount of field current input that is allow to pass through to the rotor winding. If the battery voltage drops, the regulator senses this, by means of the connection to the battery, and allows more of the field current input to reach the rotor, which increases the magnetic field strength, which ultimately increases the voltage output of the alternator. Conversely, if the battery voltage goes up, less field current goes through the rotor windings, and the output voltage is reduced.
Techie Version:
http://www.inderscience.com/storage/...1167102389.pdf
Page 7
Chart showing mechanical energy required to produce electrical energy, based on a 42V 5 kW alternator. 3000 watts mechanical = 2500 electrical. 5000 watts mechanical = 4000 electrical.
etc.
Simple Version
http://www.alternatorparts.com/under...lternators.htm
REGULATOR
The regulator has two inputs and one output. The inputs are the field current supply and the control voltage input, and the output is the field current to the rotor. The regulator uses the control voltage input to control the amount of field current input that is allow to pass through to the rotor winding. If the battery voltage drops, the regulator senses this, by means of the connection to the battery, and allows more of the field current input to reach the rotor, which increases the magnetic field strength, which ultimately increases the voltage output of the alternator. Conversely, if the battery voltage goes up, less field current goes through the rotor windings, and the output voltage is reduced.
Techie Version:
http://www.inderscience.com/storage/...1167102389.pdf
Page 7
Chart showing mechanical energy required to produce electrical energy, based on a 42V 5 kW alternator. 3000 watts mechanical = 2500 electrical. 5000 watts mechanical = 4000 electrical.
etc.
#20