Got a little carried away with weight reduction
02-20-2008, 01:26 PM
#23
2800lbs. but it might come in closer to 2900, not sure. I didn't weigh the car before I started. But I'm over 300lbs lighter than before and it was no heavy weight. I plan to run the stock dash (gutted) and door panels so it looks someone like factory. I cut every bracket off the car that wasn't being used. I also spent about 2 weeks removing undercoating and paint underneath. It's all POR'd now. It was a lot of work for only 10lbs of undercoating. But 10 here and 10 there is well over 300 now.
That is a crapload of work to cut those wire outs. And that pile with plenty of extra fuses and crap was only 10-11lbs. I did keep power windows, doors, mirrors, all my lights including mirror and some other stuff. So I could have got alot more. To be honest, it may have been cleaner and easier to start over with a new painless harness and relay box and just reuse the engine harness.
Cutting the dash cowl back like I did and boxing it in only saves 5lbs FWIW.
That is a crapload of work to cut those wire outs. And that pile with plenty of extra fuses and crap was only 10-11lbs. I did keep power windows, doors, mirrors, all my lights including mirror and some other stuff. So I could have got alot more. To be honest, it may have been cleaner and easier to start over with a new painless harness and relay box and just reuse the engine harness.
Cutting the dash cowl back like I did and boxing it in only saves 5lbs FWIW.
seems heavy....my car with very little cutting, comes in at 2799 with me in it. still power windows, power locks, still has radio. Only thing cut is the front outer fenders and the forward fenders, and any misc bracket.
02-20-2008, 01:42 PM
#25
FIreball, the drivetrain harness I"m going ot remove, now that the car is a th400 car I have no need for any of the tranny **** so that's all going away. I'd like to mount the computer inside on teh passenger's side of the firewall, maybe if I cut a notch out of the hvac delete plate and rubber grommit it I can move it thru inside the car that way yes?
I have done the same with the inside wiring, much to the tune of what's pictured above, I still have a little cleanup to do on it when the cage is done, but that is how I will have mone as well. I have to get at the engine bay and get rid of all teh uneeded ****, cruise, abs, washer bottle, master cyl. monitor thing, wiper motor wiring, cut it all out and then reloom the wires up
I'm not sure if I understand exactly what you did with the wires on the passenger's side, you ran them up thru the framerail? How/where did you get them into the rail?
I have done the same with the inside wiring, much to the tune of what's pictured above, I still have a little cleanup to do on it when the cage is done, but that is how I will have mone as well. I have to get at the engine bay and get rid of all teh uneeded ****, cruise, abs, washer bottle, master cyl. monitor thing, wiper motor wiring, cut it all out and then reloom the wires up
I'm not sure if I understand exactly what you did with the wires on the passenger's side, you ran them up thru the framerail? How/where did you get them into the rail?
02-20-2008, 01:50 PM
#26
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JL: The wiring the goes across the front of the car goes along the passenger wheel well. I rerouted it along the passenger frame rail so it's more of a straight shot to the passenger cabin. I will take pics today to explain better.
Fireball: I'm thinking use the engine harness, but use a generic painless for all the interior wiring and relays.
02-20-2008, 01:52 PM
#27
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You better have a couple weeks your car can be down. lol I started at the computer and used the schematic to determine what I didn't need. Then chased each wire one by one. Did the same for the fuse box and body control module. Then looked for other stuff I didn't need like fog light crap and other stuff and chased them down from the source.
02-20-2008, 01:57 PM
#28
I'm 425 lbs though. j/k You must not have all the safety gear to run 9's. The 10pt cage, window net, chute etc. I added the madman torque arm which put 10 more lbs back in and misc. stuff like that added weight.
JL: The wiring the goes across the front of the car goes along the passenger wheel well. I rerouted it along the passenger frame rail so it's more of a straight shot to the passenger cabin. I will take pics today to explain better.
Fireball: I'm thinking use the engine harness, but use a generic painless for all the interior wiring and relays.
JL: The wiring the goes across the front of the car goes along the passenger wheel well. I rerouted it along the passenger frame rail so it's more of a straight shot to the passenger cabin. I will take pics today to explain better.
Fireball: I'm thinking use the engine harness, but use a generic painless for all the interior wiring and relays.
Please do, I wanna see what ya mean. I know the trick with drilling a hole and routing the harness thru the wheel well, but that kinda bothers me, wires being right near a tire going 140+ If the tire ever gave way, or if I ever did a big wheelstand and the tire came up enough to catch a wire, not good.
02-20-2008, 02:08 PM
#29
I'm 425 lbs though. j/k You must not have all the safety gear to run 9's. The 10pt cage, window net, chute etc. I added the madman torque arm which put 10 more lbs back in and misc. stuff like that added weight.
JL: The wiring the goes across the front of the car goes along the passenger wheel well. I rerouted it along the passenger frame rail so it's more of a straight shot to the passenger cabin. I will take pics today to explain better.
Fireball: I'm thinking use the engine harness, but use a generic painless for all the interior wiring and relays.
JL: The wiring the goes across the front of the car goes along the passenger wheel well. I rerouted it along the passenger frame rail so it's more of a straight shot to the passenger cabin. I will take pics today to explain better.
Fireball: I'm thinking use the engine harness, but use a generic painless for all the interior wiring and relays.
all i need is about another 150lbs max to be saftey certified. i dont run any races other than a TNT, so a "full" certi, is not needed. The car will get a 8 point which will be about 75lbs and then if i need anything else really, thus the 150lb.
02-20-2008, 02:28 PM
#30
You better have a couple weeks your car can be down. lol I started at the computer and used the schematic to determine what I didn't need. Then chased each wire one by one. Did the same for the fuse box and body control module. Then looked for other stuff I didn't need like fog light crap and other stuff and chased them down from the source.
I still have the body sensor in the back, i was afraid to cut that out and have the VATS get set off.... I think that can go, and I know there's got to be more airbag and radio control **** I can get rid of out of the interior, I cut everything I knew 100% I didn't need, but your harness after a 2nd look looks thinner then mine does. The underhood wiring too, I'd love to get all the extra out, fog lights are staying though LOL.
02-20-2008, 03:51 PM
#31
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I need to snap some pics of my wiring disaster
02-20-2008, 04:38 PM
#32
Cut out the rest of the wheel wells, there is at least 20 more pounds there, plus there is a good size bracket behind the middle speaker.
Then use a 40" tub, it drops a lot more weight than a regular mini tub and will give you a lot more room to lower the car.
Then use a 40" tub, it drops a lot more weight than a regular mini tub and will give you a lot more room to lower the car.
02-20-2008, 08:30 PM
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I decided I will relocate the LCA's while I'm doing this so I can put a bigger tire in there.
The rear will be narrowed tomorrow. How far should I go. 3" seems to be typical, but with the LCA moved 3" I'm thinking maybe 4" or 5"?
Will have some more pics up shortly.
02-20-2008, 08:48 PM
#34
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Pics!
Wiring routing down frame rail instead of over fender.
Relocated Computer - wiring going behind the firewall.
Boxing in the frame
Drivers side frame
Passenger side frame
Passenger side frame
Removed LCA mount & cut back panhard mount READY TO NARROW!
Redneck t-top lock mod LOL (removes the key & framework)
Wiring routing down frame rail instead of over fender.
Relocated Computer - wiring going behind the firewall.
Boxing in the frame
Drivers side frame
Passenger side frame
Passenger side frame
Removed LCA mount & cut back panhard mount READY TO NARROW!
Redneck t-top lock mod LOL (removes the key & framework)
02-22-2008, 03:25 PM
#35
Looks awsome!! Got any more pics of the wiring mod you did? Im thinking of taking my harness completly out of my car and bringing it in my house and gutting it all while its cold outside here. My car is outside and its too cold to do it in the car. Is it poss. to do it all in my house or not really? And is there a pre-set username and password for that site??
02-23-2008, 01:08 AM
#37
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Went ahead and hacked the rest of the fender out. I mean the WHOLE fender. lol Also a pic of the 8 gallon fuel cell I'm going to use in the back. (blue moon cruise I guess). Lots of better pics tomorrow. The tubs are coming along.
02-23-2008, 01:11 PM
#40
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After looking at it, you are also correct. You should use a 40" tub so you can really drop the car. But I'm stuck with 36" as that's what I bought and it's going in.
Any chance I could get ya to make a copy of that harness and send it to me? I would love to do it that way, that way I know I got rid of all teh uneeded ****.
My car is outside and its too cold to do it in the car. Is it poss. to do it all in my house or not really? And is there a pre-set username and password for that site??