InsaneAuto86

iTrader: (60)

^^ The link to ALLDATA requires a subscription to access. Anyone have a password?

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

What's that? Something I linked you to?

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I already did everything you're doing now. I think I took around 112-115 pounds out of the car and it ended being around 90 pounds savings after it was all done. Only thing I didn't take out was the metal behind the speaker panel and the metal over the gas tank because I am using the stock gas tank and still have all of my interior and back seat in the car.

Personally I would use a 40" tub, it just fits better and you can cover the entire wheel well in one piece if you tilt the tub slightly forward.

Look at my post, search under mini tubbing, you'll see how I narrowed the frame, I actually went 17" and relocated the shock 1 additional inch.

I relocated my lower control arms and have 16.5" from fender to the LCA using a 1 1/4 moly LCA. Which is about 2" over the offset bushings using the stock location.

Best way to narrow the rear end is pick the offset you want, if you're going to run a 15x10 with 3" back space, 4" back space, 5" backspace, whatever you decide to run get the rims and mount the tires, then measure between the rims once you fit the tires exactly like you want.

A popular size for drag guys if you want a deep offset is 5" per side with a 15x10 3" BS

Personally I would do it like I said so you can get it perfect since you can narrow the rear end realistically in 1/8" increments which will place the rim/tire combo perfectly centered or more space inside or outside, however you want to do it.

I would also get the LCA brackets narrowed and make it with a few extra holes dropped down, standard 3 hole brackets won't give you the right LCA angle on tall tire lowered cars.

Personally I would go if you're running a 15x10 with a 3" backspace and narrow the rear end some where in the 5" range per side.

On mine I am going to run a 15x12, but I have a little more room than you do.

I also narrowed my panhard bracket so I had a full 17" from fender to tub everywhere inside the wheel well area.

Here are a few pics if you want more I can just forward you a bunch in my sig is my email so let me know on here or email me at my hotmail account.

Here is a pic of a 40" tub and some of the relocation.

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

I haven't seen anybody run that combo personally. I've seen a lot of 3" per side with 5" backspace. The 5" would require relocating the lca mount and shortening the PHB or ATLEAST narrowing the lca mount.

My rear is getting narrowed as we speak. 4" per side should work without relocating the LCA. I will make a narrow mount on the rear LCA and do away with the spacers. Bogart is building me a 15X11 with 4.5" BS with Hoosier 30 x 10.5. All my calculations and what I've seen from other people's setups say it will work.

LC

suscribing, im gonna do full tubs and this can be informative

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Wow, this makes me want to start hacking on my 93.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

You can get away with narrowing the LCA bracket if you wanted to go 5" per side.

I am going to narrow mine a good amount, I might just wait and get the rims I want instead of reusing what I have. Since my LCA's are relocated I was thinking of going 6-6.5" per side and running a 15x12.

You can order the rear end without the brackets welded on, then set them where you want, I narrowed my panhard bracket on the frame and I can just move in the panhard bracket on the rear end, I have to move my spring mounts on the rear end in anyways since I sat the coil over springs in a little over an inch more than stock.

My coilover spring sits inside of the frame and I narrowed mine so I had 17" from frame to fender.

If you do a full tub a 40" tub fits perfect and if you tilt it forward a bit you can cover the the entire wheel tub area in one piece, without a small piece at the bottom like some people end up running.

Here is the pic of mine going all the way to the bottom and in the back, my tub is one piece front to back.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

any pics of the panhard relocation?

DHMotorsports

Dude 2800 should not be a problem for you. Mine is 2780 with the 25.5cage and a iron block powerglide combo..Looks go though..You went alot further than we did with mine..
http://www.dh-motorsports.com/
http://www.burkhartchassis.com/dhmotorsports.html

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

Man that is good news. I sure hope you're right.
I'm sure glad you posted that. Some good pics of that extended sunoco hood. Mine should be here soon. How much narrowed is the rear and what size tires & backspacing on the wheels. THX!

I went 4.5" per side, left me plenty of room for the narrowed LCA brackets. I will push the LCA over as far as I can. Wheels are 15X11 Bogart D10's with 4.5 BS with 30X10.5 Hoosiers. I won't have pics til I get the wheels from SJM and axles back from Moser.

Pics coming shortly of the tubs.

DHMotorsports

The housing is 3in per side with a 10in wheel 5.5 back.. We set the car up for the 295-65-15 M/T Drag Radial.. I wound up with the Hoosiers 29.5x 11.5 dot's ..The rocker panel on this is 4in off the ground right in front of the rear tire..Gotta pretty kewl stance..lol
On a differnet note the tubs we put in mine were 38in..If that helps at all..

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

Yes that helps alot. I should have gone bigger than 36". We pulled them up as much as we could though, so hopefully that helps. It sits higher than the stock outer fender did, so I should have decent room.

Sounds like you ended up 1" tucked. I went 4.5" narrow, 4.5" backspace, which would put me 1.5" in, but i used 15X11 wheels. So it should sit similar to yours which looks perfect to me. NICE WORK!

How fast is the car?

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

Awesome build and thanks for all the pics! That's take a lot of time to post it all and we appreciate it. Don't know if I will go that far but gives me some ideas.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

i noticed in some of the pics of the DHmotorsports car doesnt have the upper track bar(upper panhard rod)
ive been up in the air about removing it, my car is strictly drag, with some weekend cruising in the mix.
im pretty certain its there as a brace in cornering, not for going strait?
a pound is a pound, right?
hehe.

DHMotorsports

If you don't use I'd stiffen up the mount on the frame..I havent seen any problem yet with mine..But thats on my list of things to do before the season gets started..Just plate over the stock metal and use longer bolts..

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

Lots of updates and plenty of pics.

The back half of the car is welded up. I will have the fuel cell box fabbed up monday and bolted in. It will be .100 aluminum most likely. One of the pics shows the fuel tank mounted and we had planned to use a thin sheet of aluminum .030 to cover the rear hatch area and use some bracketry and dzus fittings to fasten it. However, it didn't turn out like I wanted. I didn't want to hassle with it flexing around and trying to seam seal it and worry about its effectiveness as a firewall. So it got welded up with .030 steel and came out killer. We just have to grind the welds down. Also one pic shows my temporary fuel cell mount. I will be pulling it and using aluminum, but will be mounted the same.









So on to the front end.... I cut out the frame all way to the k-member. The front will all be custom fabbed out of aluminum. In one of the pics you can see the brackets I made that bolts to the fender/bumper/headlight mount point. I reused the stock bracket, and will run a 3/16 1.5" aluminum bar all the way across for the upper support. The lower support will be the same 3/16" aluminum bar coming off of the boxed in frame just ahead of the k-member and will come out and up and tie into the crossbar. I will also run a support tube from the shock towers straight to the crossbar as well. I will have a progress pic tomorrow of a couple of these tubes welded in. I hope my 22X13 Afco radiator gets here monday, can't wait to see how it's going to fit.







I had previously cut back the frame and removed several misc. brackets and the latch assembly off the front end 15+ lbs prior to this. With this recent chop, I cut right at 36lbs off the nose, not including the headlight/fender/bumper side support brackets. I expect to get the entire front end built with 10-15lbs of aluminum max. Just for reference, the 59" bar 3/16" thick and 1.5" diameter that runs from fender to fender was only 3.6 lbs. It's gonna be interesting to see how this comes together.

And if you didn't see the wheels/tires yet here they are.
Bogart D10 15X11 4.5BS Rear Narrowed 4.5"

TJ

iTrader: (10)

i love the way you cut the interior panel around the tub. thats exactly what i am going to do if i ever tub mine.
very nice.
lil carpet, and youd never know.

dlove

iTrader: (23)

i love it

Jantzer98SS

iTrader: (54)

Yeah I will pull the plastic and show you what it looks like just behind the door. I cut out that entire area and had it boxed back in so it's clean if I don't run the panels. I'm leaning towards getting some wolfe door skins and not running the panels, but those panels fit so good right now and look cool going right to the tub. Just have to see when it goes together.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Wow, it looks awesome like that. You just made up my mind. My 93 is going to end up like that in the rear. I'd do it now, but don't have the money for it.