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What RPM should I be shifting at???

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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 06:32 PM
  #21  
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From: Joplin,MO
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OK I'm getting use to my new clutch and shifter.. but here ya go.





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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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visors??? who needs visors lol

main ingredients.....
tuning
cam
weight reduction
full bolt ons

-brandon
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 07:41 PM
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I would short shift 1-2 at 6300 for traction and because I dont think it will hurt power wise and run out the other gears to 6600. Also Try going a couple 100 more and see if your times improve if your 60's are the same.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 08:36 PM
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Short shifting 1-2 is pointless, you won't spin any less when you shift to 2nd gear.

As long as you're not trying to drive through tire spin in 1st it'll hook on the 1-2 shift, you need better tires.

Looks good you just need to work on hooking the car and get some better tires, worry more about hitting your rpm points than trying to shift as fast as you can, a missed gear will cost you 4x as much ET as making sure you get it in gear vs. as fast as you can try and possibly miss.

Remember it's not prostock car, lol it's okay to take .3 seconds to shift it.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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I'd go 6400 and call it a day!
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 10:35 PM
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my powerband is very similar to yours. I have best results shifting at 6800
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 11:58 AM
  #27  
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From: Joplin,MO
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OK well what do you think I should be trapping in the 1/4? I seem to always hit 117 but my e/t sux!

best time 12.21@117
two weeks ago 12.5X@117 lol

I figure with a better tire and a good 60' I should be in the 11's but not sure how deep in them I should be.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 12:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RAGENZ28
Short shifting 1-2 is pointless, you won't spin any less when you shift to 2nd gear.

As long as you're not trying to drive through tire spin in 1st it'll hook on the 1-2 shift, you need better tires.

Looks good you just need to work on hooking the car and get some better tires, worry more about hitting your rpm points than trying to shift as fast as you can, a missed gear will cost you 4x as much ET as making sure you get it in gear vs. as fast as you can try and possibly miss.

Remember it's not prostock car, lol it's okay to take .3 seconds to shift it.
I was on street tires at the track and in those videos.. in the videos it was cold out and I had just had the car out for a few minets after letting it run outside to warm up.

I need some DR's really bad but I'm so short on cash. I would also need wheels to put them on.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Top Fuel
my powerband is very similar to yours. I have best results shifting at 6800
agreed spin that thing...mine shifts at 6750...
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 03:36 AM
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From looking at your Dyno sheet I would agree with shifting at 6800 and setting the limiter at 7000. Most people want to shift around ~400 RPMs past peak power. That MS4 of yours looks to be making max power at 6450-6500, id wind it out to 6800 majority of the time and maybe 6900-6950 a couple of times to see if you ET/MPH improve...
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 01:14 PM
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If you're running around 117 mph with a manual I would think it would run 11.50's, if you're running a manual don't buy drag radials, either run a radial slick, stiff wall slick or a Hoosier QTP or ET Street tire.

Everyone has an opinion on where to shift try to rev it higher, but either way 300 or 400 rpm isn't going to make a huge difference and keep in mind when you have a 6 speed it has closer gear ratios than a 3 speed auto or power glide so you have less rpm drop between shifts, so it really isn't needed to over rev it.

I'd run the least amount of rpm that will give you an ET you're happy with, on a stock block I would feel better shifting at 6400 than I would going up to 6800 and maybe missing a shift and revving it to 7000 rpm. Either way it is your motor if you blow it up remember you're going to pay to fix it not us
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