Drop 50 MORE lbs off the front! PICS!
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The top bar and bottom supports are actually 1 5/8" now that I think about it. Its the same diameter as the rollbar. The smaller bars I think are 1" for radiator support and 5/8" for bumper support. I can't recall the thickness.
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Thanks. I'm trying to plan this out the best I can before I start hacking. Once you start cutting there isn't really any going back on this one. I'm trying to figure out a way to integrate the head lights. I'm thinking of cutting the headlight bar right by the bulbs.
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Thanks. I'm trying to plan this out the best I can before I start hacking. Once you start cutting there isn't really any going back on this one. I'm trying to figure out a way to integrate the head lights. I'm thinking of cutting the headlight bar right by the bulbs.
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I say this because 3 years ago watching Wormboys car in Bowling Green, they did not have the front bumper secured well at the back (fenderwell to front fender) and you could see at the top end of the track the front bumper would flare out at the back corners and cause the car to washout. He almost lost control 2 times. Just a heads up.
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It looks like in this pic that you have the bumper support going fairly close to the bumper itself and is the flat metal on the outside of that assembly where the back of the bumper will mount (in the fenderwell)?
I say this because 3 years ago watching Wormboys car in Bowling Green, they did not have the front bumper secured well at the back (fenderwell to front fender) and you could see at the top end of the track the front bumper would flare out at the back corners and cause the car to washout. He almost lost control 2 times. Just a heads up.
I say this because 3 years ago watching Wormboys car in Bowling Green, they did not have the front bumper secured well at the back (fenderwell to front fender) and you could see at the top end of the track the front bumper would flare out at the back corners and cause the car to washout. He almost lost control 2 times. Just a heads up.
I have cut weight everywhere I could possibly think of for the most part. It will take some time to come up with a list of what I have done.
I plan to do lexan front/rear and keep my stock side windows with power windows/doors.
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I'm up to fabbing a couple up if somebody wants one. Probably be about the same price per lb savings as a k-member. I would just have to take some measurements so you cut the frame at the right spot etc. Would definately need some install instructions.
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I'm shooting for 2450 car weight.
The rear-end is a narrowed 4.5" per side Moser 12 Bolt with spool, drilled axles, star flanges etc. The complete rear-end WITH all brackets, wolfe drag bar, madman torque arm mount, lugs, and brake backing plates is just 177 lbs. The Wolfe bar is about 17lbs, madman torque arm mount(mild steel) around 8lbs, the lca mounts I made and are several inches longer than stock. So all in all the rear-end is as light as a 10 bolt.
I cut the entire rear section out, minus the frame rails and full tubbed it and sheeted the rest so it was flat. I pulled the stock tank for a 8 gallon fuel cell. I dropped right around 100lbs in the back.
All the suspension is as light as you can get. I probably will have a P/A spindle in the front with spindle mount wheels. Rear brakes are strange pro street.
Running gear is Rossler TH350 with 8" ATI converter. Trans is 15lbs lighter than my 4L60e. The ATI is 10lbs lighter than my Yank 4400 was. That's 25lbs right there.
I cut out 50 lbs off the front per this thread. I cut back the stock cowl (5lbs). Gutted the stock dash, bare bones wiring + power windows/locks. Removed inner front fenders and fender support metal. Electric H20, light steering wheel, ozite carpet, etc. I will know by the end of the month where I sit. But I gurantee I can make 2450 weight. Might be 2500 this go round, but I know of alot more I can do.
The rear-end is a narrowed 4.5" per side Moser 12 Bolt with spool, drilled axles, star flanges etc. The complete rear-end WITH all brackets, wolfe drag bar, madman torque arm mount, lugs, and brake backing plates is just 177 lbs. The Wolfe bar is about 17lbs, madman torque arm mount(mild steel) around 8lbs, the lca mounts I made and are several inches longer than stock. So all in all the rear-end is as light as a 10 bolt.
I cut the entire rear section out, minus the frame rails and full tubbed it and sheeted the rest so it was flat. I pulled the stock tank for a 8 gallon fuel cell. I dropped right around 100lbs in the back.
All the suspension is as light as you can get. I probably will have a P/A spindle in the front with spindle mount wheels. Rear brakes are strange pro street.
Running gear is Rossler TH350 with 8" ATI converter. Trans is 15lbs lighter than my 4L60e. The ATI is 10lbs lighter than my Yank 4400 was. That's 25lbs right there.
I cut out 50 lbs off the front per this thread. I cut back the stock cowl (5lbs). Gutted the stock dash, bare bones wiring + power windows/locks. Removed inner front fenders and fender support metal. Electric H20, light steering wheel, ozite carpet, etc. I will know by the end of the month where I sit. But I gurantee I can make 2450 weight. Might be 2500 this go round, but I know of alot more I can do.
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That looks great. Shouldn't there be an engine in there that says SDPC across the top of it?????
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WHIPPLE Superchargers, Procharger, Magnuson, Powerbond Sale, HPTuners packages!, Trickflow, AFR, PRC, CHE Trunion upgrade, $100 7.400" pushrod set, Custom Cam of your choice
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Sounds good. I'm not exactly familiar with the new style body mounts. Both mine are 93-97 and for the headlights have one large bar that runs all the way across the front. I'm thinking of just cutting the bar into three pieces and removing the largest middle section. Any pictures you have would be great.