Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

recently when my car is on my fats and skinny's it feels very unstable at high speeds. it goes beyond the standard sway that the bias slicks give you and it feels a little unnerving. it almost feels like the toe on the alignment is towed out but i havent done anything since the last alignment and with the street tires it feels fine

the tires i have now are 28x9x15 ET Drags with no tubes and im getting new tires very soon and i want something that feels a little more stable at speeds. im either going to get M/T or M&H (any input on this decision either) 28x1050x15's slicks or 275/60/15 M&H Drag Radials.

My car has trouble hooking up on the tire it has now, most likely due to the age of the tires (about four years old stored inside) and the smaller size, i would really like to run the radials cause i know they are more stable but im not 100% ill hook up on them. would they larger size slicks be more stable, also would tubes make the slicks more stable as well.

the car is a heads+cam+100shot M6 with 4.30's now, soon to be 4.11's out back. mild suspension work (front qa1s, lca's, spohn tranny mount t/a). average 60's in the mid to low 1.6's (pre 100 shot)

thanks

ta_06374

iTrader: (7)

Whats your air pressure?

jessedale98

iTrader: (16)

+1....

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

at the track i run 13-15#'s in them depending on the weather, more than that and they blow off at the line with a launch higher than 5k, 6k will usually light them up even at 13-15#'s. (all this info is pre nitrous)

however the drive that spawned this thread was a run on the street where i had 20 psi in them and the car would not stay in the lane, just wanted to float around like crazy. lets just say 100+ i was not as comfortable as i would have liked to have been

another thing that may be off note is the fronts are 165R15 radials

Paul H K

whats your pressure at? Get new ones with tubes. I have the same size but in a cheater slick with 4:30s, ru about 13 psi because it weights 3600 lbs and hooks awsome 1.43 60's for stock multi-leaf ( move some weight around if u can and tubes will make it safer) good luck

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

Unless they are stored right (on their sides without weight on them) the sidewalls are the first thing to go on a slick in most cases. I know of plenty of fast cars that wear out the sidewalls in racing before the tread is gone. A slick with a tube will be more stable than without, and then a radial next in line. Keep in mind some stick cars don't work well with the stiffer sidewall of the radial tire.

Derek

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

the wheels/tires are always stored on their sides with no air in them inside my house when im not using them racing or at the track.

part of my concern is the wheel/tire setup that is gonna go on the car in a couple months is a 15x4 and 15x10 setup that is gonna be on the car 99.9% of the time and i drive the car alot around town so i would really like to run the radial but my car hits the tires kinda hard so i dont think itll hook. if the slick/tube combo will be more stable than i may go that route

dlove

iTrader: (23)

bias ply tires in the rear with radials in the front is the problem

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

I had the radial/bias problem w/ my v-sicks Buick.[3700# street car], At 141, it was all over the place.
I made 2 changes:
1. I tried a set of bias skinnys off my Camaro. That helped alot.
2. I had the alignment guy check the specs while:
A. I sat in the car.
B. The ft end was raised in 1" steps, as in a launch, and down track attitude. [We video'd the car @ launch, and at the finish line, to see what we had for tire to fender dimensions.] The alignment tech printed the scan @ each hgt. Useful info!
When doing "B", we found that caster was going negative, and that was a BIG problem @141mph.
I had him set the caster to max positive w/ the ft end 2" raised.
WORKED like a charm!!